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Hauling Lumber Solutions

S

scott00tj

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Medina, OH
I was looking for suggestions on using the Cherokee to haul lumber. A trailer is just not possible as I have no place to store or use it.

I've seen a few gutter mount systems, but am worried about the lumber (or plywood sheets) flying forward or backwards while up there.
 
I was thinking about finally installing the hitch that’s been sitting in my garage and then having one of those extend a hitch type things made. It would be adjustable for width and length. Anyone seen or do something like that?
 
Here is an extender Harbor Freight sells. Might do the trick? CLICK

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2 options....the hitch extender...or a HD roof rack...unless you know a good welder you could extend the rear with a comanche bed lol.
 
Find a good roof rack with gutter mounts and you are home free. I bought a used 5x5 wilderness (Garvin) rack made for a landcruiser and cut out eight inches of the width, welding it back together with square solid stock inside the framework. I've carried six full sheets of 5/8 ply with a couple dozen one bys with no sweat and loading the roof is so much easier to do. I routinely carry 12 foot roofing panels by buying 12 foot 2bys for a base platform on the rack and then return them when done. On one deck rail I built, I needed to move six cattle panels (heavy gauge galv fencing panels) 20 feet long and 4 feet wide on my xj. I rigged up a solid T on the front bumper guard and along with some 16 foot long 2bys, I must have been a sight driving 35 miles to the project site. Of course strapping is critical but with a roof rack, you will be amazed at what you can carry. Hands down better than any hitch accessory you may find.
 
I haul around lumber all the time on my Surco, regular XJ rail mount set up. The most I've carried is 12 - 2x6x10', 2 - 2x8x12' and 4 - 4x4x8'. I traveled a relative short distance, and it was a bit top heavy; but the roof rack held up just fine.

However, I don't haul plywood around as I tend to get some amount of lift at anything over 40 mph, which is a bit scarey for me.... I say finding a buddy with a pick up truck for that....
 
How much lumber of what size and how often? You'd be surprised what can be done with no extra/special rack. Does the roof rack track go all the way forward on '97+? Tie down procedures can have as big a say on the relative success of your trip as what it is tied to, especially when sheets of material are the order of the day.
 
I put a piece of foam(to protect the roof) and a piece of wood under the factory racks to stop them from bending down and strap the load down tight to the factory bars and rails. I don't carry wood that often but it works everytime.I also tie the long stuff down at the front and to the rear hitch to keep it with me for my long drive home.
 
scott00tj said:
I was looking for suggestions on using the Cherokee to haul lumber.
I've seen a few gutter mount systems, but am worried about the lumber (or plywood sheets) flying forward or backwards while up there.
Click to expand...

To make suggestions, we need a little more information.
1.) How much lumber are you looking to haul?
2.) Do you have the normal factory roof rack?
3.) What year?
4.) Do you plan on hauling the wood on mud trails or rock runs?

If you're talking about 5 or 6 sheets of plywood or 20 or 30 2x4's, I'd just lash them to the factory roof rack. Wood flying backwards won't be an issue unless you floor it going uphill. Flying forwards during emergency braking is worth considering and compensating for.
 
scott00tj said:
I was looking for suggestions on using the Cherokee to haul lumber. A trailer is just not possible as I have no place to store or use it.
I've seen a few gutter mount systems, but am worried about the lumber (or plywood sheets) flying forward or backwards while up there.
Click to expand...

One set of Yakima bars and gutter mounts have worked well for years on three different vehicles carrying lumber and two 17' sea kayaks.
I drilled ¼” holes in the center and ends of the bars and installed eyebolts.
Ratcheting straps are used to secure whatever is being carried.
When everything is tight, nothing moves.
Try to carry sheet-goods as far rearward as possible to minimize lifting.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lwade/1416466238/in/set-72157602095132574/
 
I'm not sure of the brand, or where to search on line, but there's a set of aluminum gutter mount roof rack feet manufactured, to which you can add your own custom 2x4 or other bars. They're pretty strong, and since you can make your own bars you can use something less slippery than the usual rack bars. I've seen them in fancy sporting goods outfits, I think, as well as on line, but can't seem to find them now.

I've carried pretty heavy batches of lumber just on a regular Thule rack, but it can flex a little. If you tie things down, and especially if you use a lot of duct tape to bind everything together, things don't move around much.

If you expect to do a lot of hauling of long things on a rack, do yourself a favor and go out and get some cleats, and screw them to the bottoms of your bumpers, and you can save a lot of trouble tying down and tightening.
 
Lots and lots of good ideas here.

Small lots of lumber will fit inside - with the tailgate down, 8 ft sticks, like trim or 2x4 can slip around the head rest from mirror to rear with no problems on the passenger side. Sheets of anything wider than 2 feet will have to go outside, of course, unless they are shorter than 8 feet.

The factory rack is not so good, anything to beef it up or replace it will be better. I finally just took mine off and threw it into a corner of the garage. Now I can locate my Cherokee a little easier in a parking lot when I have forgotten to turn around a look.

I understand not having room now for a trailer - but a 5 x 8 with a 3000 max capacity can do wonders. Ride is improved, braking typically underpowered, and capacity huge. A pallet of 8 inch concrete blocks can be moved safely. All that on a 1 1/4 hitch.

Folding trailers that store upright are available in the 1,000# classs and can accomplish a lot. They just need a small footprint for floor space, still carry more than a roof rack, and don't constantly suck gas on the road. I stored one in my garage and still parked an F150 in there when I got it.

Worst case, lumberyards will deliver, some for free is enough is purchased. Spending more than $400 on a rack or trailer may take a few years to recover in saved fees, do the math and see what's right for you.
 
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