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riverfever
September 25th, 2006, 13:36
The main floor in our house had Pergo flooring in it when we bought it. There are 2 small areas in the house that have linoleum. We have some leftover Pergo that the PO left in the garage. I want to install it. Do I have to remove the linoleum or can I go over it? I believe the Pergo is floating. Thanks.

IIRC...I can just install it over linoleum as long as it's in decent shape.

-river

RichP
September 25th, 2006, 14:11
Did they leave any of the foam that goes underneath it. Also depends on whats underneath the lino thats there. My sister did it in her kitchen, about 15x25, they pulled up the lino tiles to get to bare wood then put the liner/foam down and the floor on top of that, been in for about 6 or 7 years now, still looks good but then they have plenty of deck outside the kitchen to remove any crap that could scratch it on one side and wall to wall carpeting on the other side to also remove any stuff that could be tracked in.. water also does not seem to be an issue either. Let me know how yours works out, been thinking about it in our kitchen to replace the original lino that the builder put in there..

riverfever
September 25th, 2006, 15:24
I need to go check out exactly what they left. There are 2 boxes of the flooring and 1/4 round and moulding down there. The linoleum is in great shape and I should have mentioned that the first area is maybe 4'x4' right when you walk in the door (landing). The second area is in a wash room (about the size of a bathroom).

While I'm here:
The PO had some really gawdy ceramic tile installed around the fireplace. We want to rip that out and then put in slate. Depending on the surface under the existing tile, I should be able to just put that slate on w/ minimal prep work to the surface right?

We haven't been homeowners for a year while we rented. It's nice to have our own home again so we can do repairs and make improvements.

karstic
September 25th, 2006, 16:09
The PO had some really gawdy ceramic tile installed around the fireplace. We want to rip that out and then put in slate. Depending on the surface under the existing tile, I should be able to just put that slate on w/ minimal prep work to the surface right?


Are we talking slate tile or actual stone veneer? If veneer, I would consider some k-lath and/or wall ties.

Fish'nCarz
September 25th, 2006, 16:16
I need to go check out exactly what they left. There are 2 boxes of the flooring and 1/4 round and moulding down there. The linoleum is in great shape and I should have mentioned that the first area is maybe 4'x4' right when you walk in the door (landing). The second area is in a wash room (about the size of a bathroom).

While I'm here:
The PO had some really gawdy ceramic tile installed around the fireplace. We want to rip that out and then put in slate. Depending on the surface under the existing tile, I should be able to just put that slate on w/ minimal prep work to the surface right?

We haven't been homeowners for a year while we rented. It's nice to have our own home again so we can do repairs and make improvements.


Pergo is really easy, and there are a ton of web sites that have installation instructions. Go check out fastfloors.com.

WRT the tile. Getcha a big masonry chisel and a BFH and take the offending tile off. If you make the surface below too uneven to install your new tiles buy setting type joint compound. Get 90 minute for your first effort, and follow the instructions. The stuff will harden up rather than dry and you can make a skim coat and fill holes before you tile. It doesn't have to be pretty and it doesn't have to be dead flat. Tile will hide a multitude of sins!!

25 minute setting compound is great for small touch ups, 45 minute is good once you get the hang of it. But once its set, be it on your wall or in the bucket, it's set. I use a clean, plastic, 5 gallon paint bucket to mix it in and use a power paddle on a 1/2" drill.

Good luck!!

riverfever
September 25th, 2006, 16:16
Are we talking slate tile or actual stone veneer? If veneer, I would consider some k-lath and/or wall ties.

Right now we think we want to do 6"X6" slate tile.

87manche
September 25th, 2006, 17:11
pergo is the bomb. I've got it in the kitchen and mud room.
The mud room saw the potty training of a puppy and came out uscathed, no stains or smells.
The only thing I've seen damage the kitchen floor is a can of soup that was dropped. It hit on edge and made a dent. I'm told you can remove the dent with some ammonia/water and some steam, but it's small and I'm not going to mess with it.

Fish'nCarz
September 25th, 2006, 20:55
Right now we think we want to do 6"X6" slate tile.

Home Depot has slate on sale really inexpensively from time to time. Course out where you live you'll probably have to quarry your own!

There used to be a great store in Old Colorado Springs that had tons of Mexican decorative stuff like urns and chiminea outside in a fenced in yard. They might be a good location for some nice tile at a good price. The rest of their stuff was very fairly priced.

riverfever
September 25th, 2006, 21:01
I think I know exactly the place you're talking about. We'll cruise down that way and check it out. Thanks.

HaleYes
September 26th, 2006, 16:00
As long as the linoleum is flat and smooth, you can put the Pergo over it no problem. The Pergo may have a thin foam backing on it. If it does not, you'll need to put down either foam or the felt stuff. I used the felt stuff, it seems to help deaden sound a little more. I put the stuff down in the kitchen, and it's been great. What we bought isn't "Pergo" brand but it's the same as.

My words of wisdom as far as instillation; Like I said, I put it down in the kitchen. Well, I started on the wrong side of the room. I should have started on the wall with the cabinets. The cabinets hang over the floor, where the kick plate is. It is EXTREMELY hard to put a panel in place and snap it in place. Starting at a 45° angle and then snapping it down toward the cabinets. It's kinda hard to explain in words.
I have since helped my father-in-law do their kitchen and it went really smooth. We started on the wall with cabinets and all was well.

Rev Den
September 26th, 2006, 16:38
Depending on the surface under the existing tile, I should be able to just put that slate on w/ minimal prep work to the surface right?



As long as you can get the old tile off and clean the old mortor away. The surface needs to be clean, flat, and sturdy. if the substrate flexes, the tile will crack.

Rev

Fish'nCarz
September 26th, 2006, 16:54
As long as you can get the old tile off and clean the old mortor away. The surface needs to be clean, flat, and sturdy. if the substrate flexes, the tile will crack.

Rev

I think he's just stickin' it on the wall, not the flo'.

Rev Den
September 26th, 2006, 17:09
Thats why I said substrate....not subfloor.

Big tiles (6X6 Slate) are really heavy, and need solid mounting surfaces.

Rev

dzolcali
September 26th, 2006, 20:25
are you installing this linoleum in your jeep floors? I want to put black and white checkererd flooring down...or something trippy and pyschodelic like some acid drop tie die carpeting

Chero-King
September 26th, 2006, 20:29
are you installing this linoleum in your jeep floors? I want to put black and white checkererd flooring down...or something trippy and pyschodelic like some acid drop tie die carpeting


Kay..........................................what?
:D

RichP
September 27th, 2006, 16:32
We had a dog, he liked to chew carpet, specifically the carpet near the 8ft slider out on to the deck. Cut the carpet up 8x4ft, removed the presswood subfloor to get to the 3/4" under it and layed down another layer of 3/4 ply in the hole the presswood occupied and I removed. Then used 12x12 tiles to fill in the 8x4ft 'hole'... first time I ever tiled and it came out looking good and takes a good beating too.
Oh, and got rid of the dog....

Rob Mayercik
September 28th, 2006, 09:59
The main floor in our house had Pergo flooring in it when we bought it. There are 2 small areas in the house that have linoleum. We have some leftover Pergo that the PO left in the garage. I want to install it. Do I have to remove the linoleum or can I go over it? I believe the Pergo is floating. Thanks.

IIRC...I can just install it over linoleum as long as it's in decent shape.

-river

Here's another thing to think about - how old is the house and the linoleum?

When my folks did their kitchen over about 10 years ago, they went with a laminate flooring product (Armstrong, IIRC).

In their case, the linoleum-like product was original to the house and in the neighborhood of 30 years old (my folks don't do much remodelling - if it works, why mess with it?). It was recommended by the installers to just go over top of it, due to it being the right age for either the floor or the adhesive sticking it down (which was finally starting to bleed through) to contain asbestos. Easier to lay the new floor down over top of it and not risk disturbing something like that.

Even if your floor isn't that old, why bother trying to get it out? I'd say just go right over it - extra sound deadening that way.

Rob

Lawn Cher'
September 28th, 2006, 11:06
We had a dog, he liked to chew carpet...
Oh, and got rid of the dog....

Dog was probably a lesbian.

riverfever
September 28th, 2006, 15:53
Dog was probably a lesbian.

:dunce: yuck yuck yuck.

riverfever
October 16th, 2006, 20:23
We're thinking of tackling (or at least starting) the ceramic tile job this weekend. Here's what I'm looking at:

http://i9.tinypic.com/2dhupok.jpg

I know Rev and others talked about the substrate needing to be in good shape before I install the new tile. I know the area above and on both sides of the fireplace is drywall under the existing tile. I don't know what's under the tile that makes up the "bench" in front. I suspect it's drywall as well. Although I could be surprised, I don't think there's any way in hell that tile is coming off without damaging the drywall. I'm wondering if it would be better to take out the tile and then take out the drywall and go either new drywall or the special type of backing board (can't recall the name now)? I'm sure it would just be a matter of cutting the backer board to fit closely and then installing tile, grout and then caulk. Any different ideas after seeing the area I'll be working with?

I'm hoping it wont be a huge nightmare getting whatever is under the tile out of there where it meets that Pergo flooring.

Rev Den
October 16th, 2006, 20:51
Take off the tile....IF it is drywall back there and you don't destroy it you can re-apply the new tile to it. If you do trash the drywall, use some backer board (Home Depot type places have it, or a simaller product) and replace the drywall with that. Looks like a fun job....should not take more than a weekend. You should not need to caulk anywhere.....just grout.


Rev

Fish'nCarz
October 17th, 2006, 08:30
Take off the tile....IF it is drywall back there and you don't destroy it you can re-apply the new tile to it. If you do trash the drywall, use some backer board (Home Depot type places have it, or a simaller product) and replace the drywall with that. Looks like a fun job....should not take more than a weekend. You should not need to caulk anywhere.....just grout.


Rev

Because wood moves and tile doesn't you might want to use an appropriately colored caulk on the tile/floor interface. I agree with the rest of the above. Nice job to learn tile work on. Remember your safety glasses!

riverfever
October 19th, 2006, 19:59
Update:

Couldn't save the drywall so I got rid of it all. I'll probably hang the new drywall tomorrow morning and then go check out some tile. Also...you can see the dryer tubing on the left of the fireplace. It looks like the fans under the fireplace just bring in cool air from the bottom of the room and then send it out the roof. I guess it's just supposed to aid in the circulation of the hot air. Not as cool as I thought.

http://i11.tinypic.com/4ig3fgk.jpg

Rev Den
October 20th, 2006, 02:52
The dryer tubing is probably your fresh air intake for combustion. The fan will suck the air in at the lower vent and blow it out the top vent....if that is what you meant to say, sorry.

Rev

yardape
October 20th, 2006, 04:09
So you're saying that what is in front of the fireplace is Pergo or is that wood. At some point I'm going to rip up upstairs carpeting and lay down flooring because it needs replacement and I think its healthier and easier to clean. Aside from the added expense, I've wanted to do hardwood because I've always thought Pergo and like products do not look as good. What I saw in front of your fireplace was Pergo?..... or was that wood. I'd like to hear your thoughts on this.

And by the way I think replacing that tile with slate is going to look so much better. The tile that was there looked like it belonged in a bathroom.

Fish'nCarz
October 20th, 2006, 06:43
Update:

Couldn't save the drywall so I got rid of it all. I'll probably hang the new drywall tomorrow morning and then go check out some tile. Also...you can see the dryer tubing on the left of the fireplace. It looks like the fans under the fireplace just bring in cool air from the bottom of the room and then send it out the roof. I guess it's just supposed to aid in the circulation of the hot air. Not as cool as I thought.

http://i11.tinypic.com/4ig3fgk.jpg

If you can take the grill off the front of the fireplace this would be a good opportunity to vacuum the insides of the blower assy. Also you could look for the manufacturer's name and a model number, Google 'em, and call an ask them how the darn thing works.

riverfever
October 20th, 2006, 07:38
Nothing is coming out of the upper vent...or not much anyway. Something has to be moving though otherwise the upstairs wouldn't stink as bad when the fan is run. Fishncars is right. I'll just go a little further and do some disassembly and see if I can come up with a manufacturers name and go from there.

Yardape...The flooring is the Pergo that I'll install in the landing and wash area as well. Super easy to install and, from what I've seen, durable as hell. I will get the manufacturers name after I get going in a bit. I think this floor has been in for over 2 years now and it looks great. It's really easy to keep clean. I use a spray on wax and then hit it with a floor mop thing once a week and it really shines. It's really dirty in that pic from all the drywall dust so I'll try and get another pic that shows more of it later tonight.

riverfever
October 20th, 2006, 18:16
Not sure why I'm posting all this but I am. I installed drywall this morning and then we went to look at slate. A guy told me that the mortar would not stick to the drywall and I needed to use concrete backer board. So I ended up going to Depot b/c I wasn't sure if our little lumber yard up here had it. That stuff sucks. Anyway...got it home and installed. I found 12" slate at Depot for 1.79 and saw it at smaller places for as much as 13 bones. 6" at Depot was about 6 bones. I think I'm gonna go with 12" and just cut it smaller. I'll rent a wet saw. For those that have done this before...which surface should I start installing tile on?

http://i11.tinypic.com/34sqwra.jpg

yardape
October 20th, 2006, 19:05
The most important thing is to lay it out first starting with center lines from left to right so it comes out even at the edges if that makes sense. In otherwords you want to work out from the center so that if your end pieces are not 6" which they probably won't be, they will still be equal sizes. As far as the wall goes, I'd start at the bottom woriking your way up. You'll need the pieces underneath to support the ones above to keep them from sliding down while the thinset or whatever your using dries. Put spacers in between the tiles to keep them from sliding together. I'd maybe drive a screw or a nail or 2 in above the fireplace to keep those pieces of slate from sliding down while your thinset dries. Otherwise, I think you've done a nice job so far. I agree with whoever told you that the drywall would not hold the slate. Usually wall tile is much thnner than slate.

Did the pergo hold up to all of the ground in dust? Thats pretty awesome if it did.

riverfever
October 20th, 2006, 22:23
Looks like we'll start tiling tomorrow as long as we can find a wet saw to rent. I'm so glad to be done with the backer board. I hate drywalling but I'd rather do that any day vs. dealing with the Duroc crap. It's heavy, hard to cut and even messier. I bought 2 sheets of the Duroc and strapped them to the roof on the way home. 20 miles up into the mountains at 30mph was horrible. They kept flapping up and down so much I thought we were gonna have lift off. Turns out I only needed one. So now I gotta take one back tomorrow.

The flooring rules. The company is balterio laminate flooring. My dog goes crazy when I come home and I'll push on her chest so she goes sliding backwards on all fours across the floor and it doesn't scratch it. The dust from the drywall is nothing.

wall04
October 21st, 2006, 03:36
We had a dog, he liked to chew carpet

:D

yardape
October 21st, 2006, 06:23
Looks like we'll start tiling tomorrow as long as we can find a wet saw to rent. I'm so glad to be done with the backer board. I hate drywalling but I'd rather do that any day vs. dealing with the Duroc crap. It's heavy, hard to cut and even messier. I bought 2 sheets of the Duroc and strapped them to the roof on the way home. 20 miles up into the mountains at 30mph was horrible. They kept flapping up and down so much I thought we were gonna have lift off. Turns out I only needed one. So now I gotta take one back tomorrow.

The flooring rules. The company is balterio laminate flooring. My dog goes crazy when I come home and I'll push on her chest so she goes sliding backwards on all fours across the floor and it doesn't scratch it. The dust from the drywall is nothing.

Like wrenching, having your own tools rules. I bought a $50 wet saw from home depot for a very large job I did. When you open my front door you have a view down a long hallway, through the kitchen, and out the back window. I tiled the whole space plus a bathroom off of that hallway using that saw and it has held up fine. I don't however have any idea how it would work with slate.

riverfever
October 21st, 2006, 16:56
I did a slate floor in a bathroom about 6-7 years ago but haven't ever done anything where slate goes vertically. Wow was this a PITA. I didn't know where to start so I went for the very top section above the fireplace starting with the center tile. The guy at Depot said it would stick and I had my doubts. Well it slowly slid as soon as I let go of it. The problem was that I couldn't use finishing nails b/c the PO installed tile really far into the fireplace and when I removed them it fawked up the paint and so I wanted to cover that. I would have had to nail into metal to support those 3 tiles (hence the duct tape). After that I was able to use finishing nails for support. I also couldn't figure out any other way to avoid the small sections on the sides unless I used half a tile in the center. I'll admit I did panick for a second after I had 2 tiles up and they were slipping. I thought I had bitten off more than I could chew. We ran short a few tiles so she headed down the mountain for another box. I like the way it looks. We went with tile that was already treated so I got that goin for me. I will paint the gold section of the door with high temp flat black and replace the handles later. Not sure what we'll do with grout. It'll be either black or a gray. The walls are going to be some kind of olive thing. Total project cost us right at 300. I did buy a $90 wet saw (cheapest they had) b/c rental was gonna be 35 and I figured if I use it again it'll be paid damn near paid for. I hope everything is OK with the install and I dont start having tiles pop off 3 months down the road. Thanks for all the help guys. I'll post a pic next week or so when the grout is done.

http://i14.tinypic.com/30mobcy.jpg

Fish'nCarz
October 21st, 2006, 17:29
That looks really nice! I used the same stuff on the floor in the downstairs bath and entry. Get a gallon freezer zip-lock and cut a lower corner off, put the grout in that and squeeze it into the joints. Saves a TON of work trying to clean the surface of the slate. Then use a plastic spoon or something to finish the joints. That'll look great! I'd use a dark grey grout, black really dominates, and is as hard to keep clean as white.

yardape
October 21st, 2006, 17:38
Nice job. Well done and I bet those center tiles above the fireplace were a pain. A couple of thoughts: while generally I like the bold look of black, black grout I think will outline each tile like a black crayola and checkerboard it. Grey might be a better choice. You want the grout to compliment the slate, not outline it. Second, I know you're done but at some point you might consider taking the slate all the way up to the wood shelf or even the ceiling. Without seeing the rest of the room its hard to picture but if the fireplace is the centerpiece of the room it could be very striking.

riverfever
October 21st, 2006, 19:14
Damn you Yard Ape. I have been sitting here looking at the fireplace and thinking....slate to the ceiling.

There's no way in hell I would do it. It might be cool looking but I don't think I want ot hang more of that tile vertically. I think whatever color we decide on for the entire room, we're going to go somewhere close to 2 shades lighter or darker depending just in that area where the fireplace is. Here's the best vantage point I can give you on the room.

http://i13.tinypic.com/4cw7o14.jpg

http://i13.tinypic.com/2a6t2tg.jpg

yardape
October 21st, 2006, 19:27
Sorry,... it was just a thought and also depends on how long you're staying in that house. If you have been admiring your work (of which you should be proud) and thinking something is off its because that shelf is your mantel and should be connected to the fireplace either by lowering it or bringing the slate up to it. Even if you leave it alone its far better than the gay tile that was there before.

riverfever
October 21st, 2006, 19:40
No....I appreciate your input Ape. I've never had a fireplace so I don't know any better. The only reason I picked that line to end it at was b/c that's how it was to begin with. I think the mantel is a bit high. Not sure how I'd go about lowering it. I think I'll paint and then see how it looks.

yardape
October 22nd, 2006, 01:52
Ape? You called me Ape?;) It'll be fine once you paint with a darker color. It'll eliminate the white space between the 2 and incorporate the stone with the shelf above.

The nice thing about owning your own home is that you can do whatever you want. You don't have to stick to conventions. You can create your own space that you like and admire. You don't have to please anyone but yourself.

Fish'nCarz
October 22nd, 2006, 08:29
No....I appreciate your input Ape. I've never had a fireplace so I don't know any better. The only reason I picked that line to end it at was b/c that's how it was to begin with. I think the mantel is a bit high. Not sure how I'd go about lowering it. I think I'll paint and then see how it looks.

There's lot's of things you could do with that space. Paint, slate, embossed tile, highly figured wood, or a wildlife scene cut from plate steel with a CNC plasma cutter and artfully rusted. There really ain't no limits.

Remember to seal your grout with something good so you can clean it when you get ashes and soot on it without discoloring the grout.

riverfever
October 22nd, 2006, 09:06
Great tip on using the freezer bag for the grout by the way. We'll probably do that next weekend. Ya know...it just dawned on me. We thought we did good by purchasing tile that was pre-sealed. I never considered that we'd have to seal the grout to keep it nice looking. Damn.

I actually have a poster from the movie, "A River Runs Through It". It's autographed by Redford, Pitt and Skerrit. It's getting framed and I was hoping to put that above the mantle. I may have to lower the mantle for that too though.

yardape
October 22nd, 2006, 11:39
Well FWIW, they now make grout that won't stain. I think it has teflon in it or something but it is very spendy. Considering the amount you would need however you might want to consider it. A bottle of sealer, the good stuff, is not cheap either. Tile Lab is the sealer that has like a 20 year warranty but like I said they don't give that away either.

Fish'nCarz
October 22nd, 2006, 17:18
Great tip on using the freezer bag for the grout by the way. We'll probably do that next weekend. Ya know...it just dawned on me. We thought we did good by purchasing tile that was pre-sealed. I never considered that we'd have to seal the grout to keep it nice looking. Damn.

I actually have a poster from the movie, "A River Runs Through It". It's autographed by Redford, Pitt and Skerrit. It's getting framed and I was hoping to put that above the mantle. I may have to lower the mantle for that too though.

I hate that movie!! It shoulda been about golf or bowling so that MY rivers wouldn't be so crowded! ;^))

That'll look great up there. You'll think of something that'll make your home reflect your personalities. It's the things like that that make a building a home.