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brake light pressure switch

I

IRPancake

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Oviedo, Fl
My ghetto brake switch idea didn't work out the way I'd like to. It works only if you push hard when the brakes really start to resist, but even when the brakes are on but not pushed that hard the lights dont light up, so I can't exactly drive it.

I want to do a pressure switch but dont know what pressure rating our systems are. Autozone carries a "low pressure" switch, will this work? and I'll probably need another 10230293 fittings to tie it into the system, or is there a mysterious unused port somewhere?
 
or is there something you can buy that will break a connection when it has power but connect it when theres not. I know that doesn't make much sense, but I can just splice into the other brake sensor (which I dont even know what it does). But that sensor is always on, and when you push the pedal it turns the lights off, any way to reverse that?
 
Just fix the switch the correct way.I want the "least" amount of "connections/possible failures" in my hydraulic circuit as possible(plus off the shelf is always better).
 
you need an arm that the switch can pivot on once it makes contact, if you are going that route. or, a 5 pin relay to cut power once contact is made, if you use that method. i'll agree with RCP though, why not fix it the right way? what is the problem with the stock setup... or is this some sort of buggy project?


:dunno:
 
swap out your pedal bracket for the 95/96 style that has a mount for the 95/96 switch and put that switch in and your done...simple and your brake light works the CORRECT way
 
I was trying to get away from using a stock setup. The 95/96 pedal/sensor just bolt in? I already tried grounding the flat spot into the rod to make the old sensor work, will that stop the 95/96 sensor from working?

The 'right' way is a huge pita. I can just see it being one of those projects that ends up with me breaking something.
 
Well what about your TC and CC?
 
IRPancake said:
I was trying to get away from using a stock setup. The 95/96 pedal/sensor just bolt in? I already tried grounding the flat spot into the rod to make the old sensor work, will that stop the 95/96 sensor from working?

The 'right' way is a huge pita. I can just see it being one of those projects that ends up with me breaking something.
Click to expand...

The 95/96 has a tab that a sensor slides into and its a push button type sensor...the button hits on the brake pedal arm and when pushed in the lights are off and when the button is out the brake lights are on....swapping out the pedal box is simple...the 4 bolts that hold the booster on and 2 more up under the dash...everythings the same and the brake switch is simple...took me an additional 30 mins to swap this stuff and i havent had any problems since the swap
 
TC?

Is the 95/96 a light/white colored box near the top of the pedal?? I have that, and I dont know what its hooked up to, but I tried hooking the brake light wires to it, and the lights were on until I pushed the brakes, then they turned off.
 
alright I'm not going to waste my time driving to the junkyard and paying all the stupid fees. Will that low pressure switch work or not? thanks in advance
 
Alright...well, I never really knew how a relay worked until now...I'm just going to get a relay and use that cruise control switch to have the brake lights off when theres power going through it, and as soon as the cruise switch turns off, the power will be put to the brake lights
 
Is the cruise switch normally open (NO) or normally closed (NC)? I'm not sure on the Renix models; on the 91s and up it's NO, closes when you apply the brakes. This is easily verified with a meter. IF it's NO, you don't need a relay, just run the 12V brake light power through the switch. The brake lights aren't enough load to need a relay.

But I think the best way is to swap in a pedal assembly from a 91 and up XJ/MJ.
 
I'm pretty sure I tried it, and they were always on, and when I hit the brakes they turned off.

So I bought a Pilot relay that was normally closed, so that when the power was turned off through the cruise switch, it would complete the circuit between the two brake wires. WRONG. IDK what the hell to do anymore, I would rather jam my brakes and almost rear end people every time than deal with stupid shit like this. I have th relay hooked up right according to the diagram, so even if it didn't use it as a switch, it should still either be on or off
 
So I tried hooking the two brake lights wires directly to the cruise switch. Nothing happened, or when I pushed the brake in. Turned out I spun it so that it wasn't contacting the pedal enough to be on. So I readjusted it, and rehooked up the relay, and nothing. I dont understand. I guess there isn't power to turn the coil on the relay on (then I guess I dont understand how this idea could have worked in the first place), so I'm trying to connect the 2 wires coming off the cruise switch to the 2 wires coming off the brake lights, and there are only 4 prongs, so basically I just blew $8 on a relay for no reason.

The thing that I dont understand is, the diagram shows it as a normally closed, so the pole is going towards the power source. That means if there isn't a power source, as in my case, there should be a connection (between the 2 brake light wires), but the lights dont turn on. wtf is happening
 
you cannot use the cruise control switch...you probably burned it out...get the correct brake light switch and do it correctly..if you keep trying to cut corners it will never work right...you would've saved a ton of headaches and some $
 
offroader461 said:
you cannot use the cruise control switch...you probably burned it out...get the correct brake light switch and do it correctly..if you keep trying to cut corners it will never work right...you would've saved a ton of headaches and some $
Click to expand...

yea, someone suggested it earlier in the thread, and it made sense. now it doesn't work. I'm just getting a pressure switch
 
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