WJ knucle swap

Well I have a hp30 in my garage that I'm working on building up so that I can do a straight swap when its finished.

I'd like to do a WJ knuckle swap to utilize the two piston caliper. I've got a few questions about it though since I haven't messed with my steering other than an adjustable track bar when I installed my lift.

What I want to do is WJ knuckles and brakes with OTK steering. The areas I'm confused on are.....

I ordered JCR steering before I got this (wj knuckles) idea in my head. I've read a few things that says the JCR tie rod will be too short in an OTK conversion with WJ knuckles. I'd like to keep it so I utilize my investment, but a friend of mine also said the JKS tie rod will work, which isn't priced bad if I absoloutely had to switch them.

Assuming I solve the tie rod/ knuckle issue, the OTK system will raise my tie rod. Should I then in turn raise the track bar and drag link?

Thanks in advance to anyone who can answer these, I know they are pretty specific questions to one set up.

Another ridiculous idea I had in my head was the Vanco big brake system for an XJ. I could send them my old knuckles off my spare axle to get the 200$ credit right off the bat, which takes the price down to 750$. Any comment on the price/ effort ratio? It would be nice to have the whole kit just bolt on, just not sure if better braking is worth 750$ :bawl:

The WJ knuckle raises the draglink,so yes you have to raise the trackbar.

RescueXJ said:

Well I have a hp30 in my garage that I'm working on building up so that I can do a straight swap when its finished.

I'd like to do a WJ knuckle swap to utilize the two piston caliper. I've got a few questions about it though since I haven't messed with my steering other than an adjustable track bar when I installed my lift.

What I want to do is WJ knuckles and brakes with OTK steering. The areas I'm confused on are.....

I ordered JCR steering before I got this (wj knuckles) idea in my head. I've read a few things that says the JCR tie rod will be too short in an OTK conversion with WJ knuckles. I'd like to keep it so I utilize my investment, but a friend of mine also said the JKS tie rod will work, which isn't priced bad if I absoloutely had to switch them.

Assuming I solve the tie rod/ knuckle issue, the OTK system will raise my tie rod. Should I then in turn raise the track bar and drag link?

Thanks in advance to anyone who can answer these, I know they are pretty specific questions to one set up.

Another ridiculous idea I had in my head was the Vanco big brake system for an XJ. I could send them my old knuckles off my spare axle to get the 200$ credit right off the bat, which takes the price down to 750$. Any comment on the price/ effort ratio? It would be nice to have the whole kit just bolt on, just not sure if better braking is worth 750$ :bawl:

Click to expand...

I am in a similar boat and going through the WJ swap right now.

The WJ knuckle has a different mounting point (a seperate ear) for the draglink. The draglink is no longer connected to the tie rod. Instead, the tie rod runs from knuckle to knuckle. I would hazard to guess the JCR steering will be too short, but I am not sure. You could just get a straight section of DOM tubing and tap the ends for the JCR tie rods. I will have to look up the size tubing you need. Or, if you haven't mounted it up, maybe you can explain your situation and JCR will help you out.

Raising the track is necessary for two reasons as I have come to understand. One, the OEM track bar mount is in the way of you go OTK, along with the sway bar links. Two, when you raise the drag link to the new mounting position, you need to keep the track bar at the same angle to avoid bumpsteer.

I debated between the Vanco and WJ for a long time. There is more fabrication with the WJ set up. I have the time and the means to do it, so I went that route. For that reason, it worked out to be cheaper for me. If you don't have access to a welder and necessary tools, or don't have the fab skills, the Vanco route seems to be a good way to go.

As I said, I am in the midst of this so there are still a few areas with the track bar I have to work out myself, but I can let you know.

I will find the links and post them later, but there is a really good thread on pirate about the swap. http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=489905

JKS has a write up on it as well, but it's buried in their site.

I plan to do a write up on how I did it, as I was confused a bit and had to weed through some things.

so, first things first. i'll take credit for suggesting that the JCR tie rod will work. i am in the process of researching what steering setup i want to run on mine... adam and i are likely going to have a WJ swap party at my house sometime over the summer. i didn't realize that the draglink doesn't mount right to the tie rod anymore... that makes a big difference.

the idea i had to keep the JCR for him was to cut the tie rod and sleeve it, and basically weld.... a lot.... this may or may not make the drag link too short as well, depending on the location.

rather than buying a OTA trac bar mount, i had planned on attempting to make a bracket from scratch. i have a welder and grinder. can't be that hard, right? :laugh3:

jdbwrx said:

I am in a similar boat and going through the WJ swap right now.

The WJ knuckle has a different mounting point (a seperate ear) for the draglink. The draglink is no longer connected to the tie rod. Instead, the tie rod runs from knuckle to knuckle. I would hazard to guess the JCR steering will be too short, but I am not sure. You could just get a straight section of DOM tubing and tap the ends for the JCR tie rods. I will have to look up the size tubing you need. Or, if you haven't mounted it up, maybe you can explain your situation and JCR will help you out.

Raising the track is necessary for two reasons as I have come to understand. One, the OEM track bar mount is in the way of you go OTK, along with the sway bar links. Two, when you raise the drag link to the new mounting position, you need to keep the track bar at the same angle to avoid bumpsteer.

I debated between the Vanco and WJ for a long time. There is more fabrication with the WJ set up. I have the time and the means to do it, so I went that route. For that reason, it worked out to be cheaper for me. If you don't have access to a welder and necessary tools, or don't have the fab skills, the Vanco route seems to be a good way to go.

As I said, I am in the midst of this so there are still a few areas with the track bar I have to work out myself, but I can let you know.

I will find the links and post them later, but there is a really good thread on pirate about the swap. http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=489905

JKS has a write up on it as well, but it's buried in their site.

I plan to do a write up on how I did it, as I was confused a bit and had to weed through some things.

Click to expand...

Thanks, that post is really helpful. I had no clue about the drag link. I'll read that Pirate link and look on the JKS website since I'm at work.

hmm... it would be sweet to get a drivers side knuckle from an export... never thought of that

I can't find the link to the JKS write up, but I have it saved as a .pdf. Shoot me a pm and I can e-mail it to you.

I was looking at the JCR steering and it looks like the drag link would be short as well, as it needs to go all the way over to that passenger side knuckle.

See this pic, and you can see the extra arm on the passenger side knuckle that the draglink attaches to. http://homepage.mac.com/rv6a/Images/hpd30/hpd30-11.jpg

Here is a pic on JU. It should give you an idea of the connection points and why the lengths on things are different. http://www.jeepsunlimited.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5071830&postcount=10

It seems that everyone sets them up just a bit differently.