Fitting 2500 front end parts:

[zluster]

Ok, did a little bit of teardown and started looking at what it would take to get this 2500 header panel to fit.
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ106.jpg

So as you can see the 2500 header fits back in a little bit:
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ107.jpg
I measure 3.25" deep:
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ108.jpg
And I measure 3.25" back from the leading edge of the hood. So basically the header is supposed to sit back flush against the front face of the "headlight bucket" so it looks like I will be trimming off that whole side piece where the fender bracket ties the fender to the "headlight bucket" with the ~.25" gap between the header panel and the hood I think that will be just about right.
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ109.jpg

So, thats what we have to deal with, Baja MJ how exactly did you deal with the recess?

[Mr_Random]

I'm a bit confused as to what your actual problem is, does the 2500 panel sit further back than the stock one, and you don't have 2500 fenders to fit?

Are you scrapping/swapping out your interior? I could benefit from some pieces of it (or the whole thing, ha). My XJ has the same color interior and I was seriously thinking about a bench seat (will have to move the E-brake somehow though). I HATE passengers, and any additional separation from people in the rear would be nice, ha... oh and I bet the bench would make a nice "love" seat... you know...

[ehall]

I'm a bit confused as to what your actual problem is, does the 2500 panel sit further back than the stock one, and you don't have 2500 fenders to fit?
The sides of the header panel are different from the US models and he does not have the fenders to see how the inner fenders need to be cut

[zluster]

I'm a bit confused as to what your actual problem is, does the 2500 panel sit further back than the stock one, and you don't have 2500 fenders to fit?


The header sits further back than either of the US headers, part of the headlight "bucket" will need to be cut away so that the header panel can sit like it needs to.

The fenders should be here in the US any day now, though I don't really require them for fitting the header panel.

[ehall]

The fenders should be here in the US any day now, though I don't really require them for fitting the header panel.

Dude, wait for the fenders so you can see all the bolt holes

[zluster]

Dude, wait for the fenders so you can see all the bolt holes

Oh, I wont be doing any cutting yet untill I have those, got nothing to lose by waiting untill we get them.

But like I said, it sure does seem like all that is going to have to be cut away.

[ehall]

You'll probably want to leave some metal to fold into tabs for the bolts

[zluster]

You'll probably want to leave some metal to fold into tabs for the bolts

As far as I can tell from the pictures there are not any bolts in that area, just the ones along the engine bay, and the ones that mount down low below the bumper(and of course the ones in the door jamb and the rocker panel).

Arg, I wish our order would land already!

[ehall]

There are probably bolts that hold the front of the fender to the inner fender, like with the stock setup. You'll want to cut and fold tabs for those to keep the front of the fender against the body

[zluster]

There are probably bolts that hold the front of the fender to the inner fender, like with the stock setup. You'll want to cut and fold tabs for those to keep the front of the fender against the body

You would think there should be, but from what I can see of the design I dont see how that possible.
http://www.go.jeep-xj.info/Rons8.jpg

The only place I can see for it to attach is way below the headlight area.

[zluster]

Ok so this is kinda academic since we should have our fenders and such soon from the groupbuy, but it looks like the 2500 fenders use the newer style upper header mount.

If you note this is a 97+ fender that I threw on for comparison:

http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ111.jpg
So here you can see the upper header mount and the stud on the 2500 header panel line up perfect.
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ112.jpg

In these last two you can just barely see the stud and the stud hole on the 2500 front end, they do not appear to lineup correctly, though to be fair this fender needs trimming before the header panel will sit flush, and it is a little mangled up.
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ113.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ114.jpg

[zluster]

Testing out the 2500 flares, they basically take up the same amount of fender space that the 97+ flares do, but have a somewhat different "squared off" shape to them.
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ59.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ60.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ61.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ62.jpg

We will not be able to use the 97+ flare tie downs without modification:
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ63.jpg

[slowjeep]

looking good, nice to see a write-up on this upgrade. I guess the next group buy is about ready with so many people inquiring about it

[scott00tj]

looks greats. cant wait to see the progress.

[BonesBrosChris]

Hey Z did you see if the older pre '97 flare brackets would work? I got a set in the garage but I cant get the 2500 stuff out of the XJ because of all the snow on it.

-C

[zluster]

Hey Z did you see if the older pre '97 flare brackets would work? I got a set in the garage but I cant get the 2500 stuff out of the XJ because of all the snow on it.

-C

We could probably get them to work.....they attach differently though, the us 97+ uses those "top/bottom push over clip" and the older ones just use a solid piece of strap with studs that sits through the plastic flare.

But:
I think our best bet is to modify the 97+ tie downs, combined with some strong glue, to hold the flares on.

[scott00tj]

We could probably get them to work.....they attach differently though, the us 97+ uses those "top/bottom push over clip" and the older ones just use a solid piece of strap with studs that sits through the plastic flare.

But:
I think our best bet is to modify the 97+ tie downs, combined with some strong glue, to hold the flares on.

duct tape fixes all..... right..... :)

[scott00tj]

http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ106.jpg


Is that the stock MJ hood, the 2500 Hood, or 3rd option?

[yossarian19]

I think I heard, somewhere, that the Beijing 2500 uses the pre-97 body with revised front clip and interior... I suspect the pre-97 tie downs would work with the 2500 parts.

[zluster]

Is that the stock MJ hood, the 2500 Hood, or 3rd option?

The MJ/XJ/2500 all use the same hood.

That being said it is not the original hood to my MJ.

In 2001 I bought a 2000 Cherokee Freedom, it had been partially repaired and then the insurance company stopped and sold it at a salvage auction instead. The remaining parts needed to repair it were included, the original hood had the slightest bend in it from where the fender had touched the hood. Instead of painting the new hood(which had the bottom painted already) we grabbed the existing hood with a pair of welding vice grips and a rag, pulled back ever so slightly, and completely removed all traces of the bend.

So I had a leftover OEM hood. It sat around for years untill I bought another Jeep Cherokee Freedom back in 2005(grey), which needed a hood so it got used on that jeep. Now this summer I bought the MJ for my diesel project, I also bought a 1998 Mercedes E300 Turbo Diesel for my Dad, in exchange I got his 2000 Cherokee freedom(yellow) and had to sell my 2000 Grey Freedom. Rather than doing bodywork on the hood(had a few up dents and scratches in it) I took the hood off the MJ, which had no dents, and since both needed to be painted top and bottom painted it instead. So now the hood that originally came as a spare replacement part on a Jeep I bought in 2001, had on another Jeep for 3 years, will end up on my MJ which is 12 years older than the hood.

Plus, the MJ is getting painted PR4 - Flame Red, which the bottom of the hood is already.......so I find it very fitting how it all worked out.....

See, you had to ask huh?

I think I heard, somewhere, that the Beijing 2500 uses the pre-97 body with revised front clip and interior... I suspect the pre-97 tie downs would work with the 2500 parts.

No they will not. The 2500 flares are more like 97+ US flares. The 2500 flares use the same type of clip to hold the flare to the bracket as the 97+ US does. They do however use different bracket spacing, as you can see in the picture above, only one clip out of several actually lined up between the US 97+ tie down as the 2500 tie downs.

[Kittrell]

Progress?

[zluster]

Progress?

The parts have landed, we are now waiting for them to be sorted and shipped out.

No more progress on the fitting untill I get the fenders.

[Kittrell]

The suspense is killing me!

[zluster]

The suspense is killing me!

Well, me too. Still waiting on our parts, they are on the east coast.

Speaking of which....

[BonesBrosChris]

Well, me too. Still waiting on our parts, they are on the east coast.

Speaking of which....

Your not the only one man!

[zluster]

Your not the only one man!

*west coast.

[1bolt]

Zluster can you take a longer shot of the flares on your XJ? I'm thinking about doing those flares. Do they require the plastic cladding "water proofs"? Also do they meet up to the 97+ front and rear bumper ends or are they mismatched?

[zluster]

Zluster can you take a longer shot of the flares on your XJ? I'm thinking about doing those flares. Do they require the plastic cladding "water proofs"? Also do they meet up to the 97+ front and rear bumper ends or are they mismatched?

the cladding is incorporated onto the flare, if you just wanted the flare you would need to trim off the cladding and do some bodywork.

They about meet up with the front and rear end cap, though the US end caps are more rounded and the 2500 parts are more square.

[1bolt]

Z any chance you could take a pic of it? or a shot from further away? Hard to tell how they look from close in and I have to decide if I want to get some of those flares. I like the idea of trimming the cladding off and maybe plastic welding the hole closed or glassing it.

[zluster]

Z any chance you could take a pic of it? or a shot from further away? Hard to tell how they look from close in and I have to decide if I want to get some of those flares. I like the idea of trimming the cladding off and maybe plastic welding the hole closed or glassing it.

I don't have them mounted on anything, those pictures I had were just because I was repainting the black(faded) flares on my freedom before I sold it, I just threw those on late one night to get something of an idea of how they fitted.

[zluster]

http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ172.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ165.jpg

[JeepCherokeeGuy99]

i just put my fenders on yesterday and wiring the headlights. Now i have to use a plasma cutter to make the header fit on my 99 xj. Hey do you know if your suppose to put the platic bumber (2500) over the stock bumper?

[TexasComanche]

I just got my front end conversion from Chris yesterday and I am excited to get started on it soon. Has anyone else fitted things up to see what issues I might run into? I saw Zluster had it somewhat mocked up on what looked like a MJ. I also have a MJ so I am curious about what fit issues everyone has run into before I get started. Also, can I use the older fender flares rather than the 2500 fender flares on these? Thanks for the help!

[BonesBrosChris]

I just got my front end conversion from Chris yesterday and I am excited to get started on it soon. Has anyone else fitted things up to see what issues I might run into? I saw Zluster had it somewhat mocked up on what looked like a MJ. I also have a MJ so I am curious about what fit issues everyone has run into before I get started. Also, can I use the older fender flares rather than the 2500 fender flares on these? Thanks for the help!


Check with Bville99gt he's the one who posted the red one a few weeks ago. I don't know if he did it himself or had a bodyshop do the work.
-Chris

[JeepCherokeeGuy99]

i just installed everything today except the plastics. I dont know how your suppose to hook the plastics up. To the stock bumper? if so it doesn't work on my 99. I saw no part on the catalog for a metal bumper so im lost. maybe it only works with pre 97 bumpers?

[BonesBrosChris]

The 2500's use a totally different metal structure under the plastic parts. In the other thread (...yan) posted up some pictures of one with the drivers cap off....

[zluster]

The 2500's use a totally different metal structure under the plastic parts. In the other thread (...yan) posted up some pictures of one with the drivers cap off....

Wanna help me out on that one? I can't find this picture you speak of.......

[JeepCherokeeGuy99]

Wanna help me out on that one? I can't find this picture you speak of.......


http://naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=968206&page=32

[BonesBrosChris]

I remember seeing it someplace on the first order. It had a really good shot of the front of a real 2500 and you could see all the structure behind the header panel and the bare bumper..... I'll check when I get back work and see if I can find it.

-C

[JeepCherokeeGuy99]

just an FYI, dont use hub cap push nuts on the headlights, first run at the beach and my headlight fell out :(

[1bolt]

is there no way to mount/secure them properly?

[zluster]

Ok this is the jist of what you need to do, basically you trim away some excess and then bend a lip back over, I forgot to take pics of the lip bent over so I'll get em later.

These fenders need serious work to fit right, its like someone got the idea right about how they are supposed to mounts but all the critical dimensions are off. it basically forces the header and then headlight to sit too far forward. I still might modify some US fenders now that I have these as a template.

For anyone considering this in the future I would recommend going that route.

Worked on fitting the 2500 fenders and headlights:
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ197.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ198.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ199.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ200.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ201.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ202.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ203.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ204.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ205.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ206.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ207.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ208.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ209.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ210.jpg

[TexasComanche]

Thanks a ton Zluster! This was extremely helpful. In modifying U.S. fenders - would it be as easy as cutting out the headlight area to fit the header? Thanks again!

[zluster]

Thanks a ton Zluster! This was extremely helpful. In modifying U.S. fenders - would it be as easy as cutting out the headlight area to fit the header? Thanks again!

pretty much.

[uFuentes]

NICE JOB ZLUSTER!!

WISH I HAD THOSE PARTS =(

[1bolt]

pretty much.

So if you use the stock US fenders heacking up the header panel isn't necessary?

On another note... the US fenders may be easier but unless you want them to look all Ghetto you need to french the "ears" of those headlights. Maybe using a flanging tool. Just cutting the shape out looks like crap IMO (in the one instance I've seen it).

[zluster]

So if you use the stock US fenders heacking up the header panel isn't necessary?

On another note... the US fenders may be easier but unless you want them to look all Ghetto you need to french the "ears" of those headlights. Maybe using a flanging tool. Just cutting the shape out looks like crap IMO (in the one instance I've seen it).

If you use US fenders then you just mod them to be like the 2500 fenders, just better quality. No need to modified the header panel, i don't even know what you could modify on the header.

[1bolt]

er I should have said "hacking up the core support isn't necessary?"

[zluster]

er I should have said "hacking up the core support isn't necessary?"

No, that procedure is still the same. Nothing about the fenders affects where the core/apron support needs to be modified.

[1bolt]

okay I was hoping the cutting on the core support was to help fit the 2500 fenders... I should have figured I was wishful thinking...

I'm not much of a fan of cutting into the unibody structure any more, like a lot of people I have cut fenders with no flares. Cutting out the rear pinch seam and then welding the folded bits back in eventually results in wavy distortions in the painted sheet metal above the wheel arch, because the stress that used to be born by the hidden pinch seam is now born by the very visible upper quarter panel... Not a big deal on a trail rig but real ugly on a nice DD.

No telling if the same thing is likely to happen with the fenders.

[zluster]

okay I was hoping the cutting on the core support was to help fit the 2500 fenders... I should have figured I was wishful thinking...

I'm not much of a fan of cutting into the unibody structure any more, like a lot of people I have cut fenders with no flares. Cutting out the rear pinch seam and then welding the folded bits back in eventually results in wavy distortions in the painted sheet metal above the wheel arch, because the stress that used to be born by the hidden pinch seam is now born by the very visible upper quarter panel... Not a big deal on a trail rig but real ugly on a nice DD.

No telling if the same thing is likely to happen with the fenders.

This part is completely hidden below the fenders and headers, if you do it right you won't even see the changes from the engine bay.

You'll note that I also put in some extra spot welds, (including some I didn't show in pictures). I am also going to weld the bent over tab onto the fender support. Overall this will make the front end a little stronger than it was factory.

Keep in mind though, the framerails carry the load in the front, the fender supports on the front end do little except hold the aesthetic body panels on(the front fenders are nowhere near structural).

[1bolt]

I'm not going to tell you you're wrong, maybe cutting the core area's will have no long term detrimental effect, and maybe you're right that you will end up with a stronger core support. Especially if you take care to round any square cuts and drill the ends of saw cuts or fish plate them.

But...

The XJ is a unibody design, there are no front frame rails, there is a front sub frame, like every unibody vehicle, the entire metal structure including the visible area's lend 3 dimentional stiffness to the whole. The core support is very much more than a body panel hanger, It is basically the only thing acting as a front cross member. Which is the only thing keeping the shock towers and engine mounts from moving laterally or flexing torsionaly. the engine mounts are not rigid enough to stop lateral flex and don't have any vertical leverage at all to keep the fenders/towers from twisting vertically. They would tear themselves up without the support of the front core/cross member.

As it is in heavy off-road use XJ engine mounts are fairly well known weakness due in part to the flex and twist, even when all the core support area is unhacked... Just a thought.

As I said earlier one of the known unintended side effects seen from the cut and fold fenders mod is ripples in the sheet metal... you wouldn't intuitively think that the rear wheel arch was doing much chassis stiffening duty, but it does, the entire vehicle is a 3 dimentional load bearing structure.

[zluster]

I'm not going to tell you you're wrong, maybe cutting the core area's will have no long term detrimental effect, and maybe you're right that you will end up with a stronger core support. Especially if you take care to round any square cuts and drill the ends of saw cuts or fish plate them.

But...

The XJ is a unibody design, there are no front frame rails, there is a front sub frame, like every unibody vehicle, the entire metal structure including the visible area's lend 3 dimentional stiffness to the whole. The core support is very much more than a body panel hanger, It is basically the only thing acting as a front cross member. Which is the only thing keeping the shock towers and engine mounts from moving laterally or flexing torsionaly. the engine mounts are not rigid enough to stop lateral flex and don't have any vertical leverage at all to keep the fenders/towers from twisting vertically. They would tear themselves up without the support of the front core/cross member.


I'm not going to argue this with you. I'm not going to spend the time to nit pick the semantics.

The simple fact of the matter is that you can bend the factory "head light buckets" by hand. If you think they actually make two shits of difference in the body rigidity then just don't do this mod and stick with US parts.

[Mr_Random]

I'm not going to argue this with you. I'm not going to spend the time to nit pick the semantics.

The simple fact of the matter is that you can bend the factory "head light buckets" by hand. If you think they actually make two shits of difference in the body rigidity then just don't do this mod and stick with US parts.


I'm gonna argue with him for you;

Go open your hood and start removing your air box, you will see there is an overlapping seam just under it, separating the rear half of the engine bay from the front. Just from some visual inspections right now I'm fairly positive the gauge of steel bumps down from rear to front. The shock "tower" even has some reinforcement on the underside.

If any of that makes sense, I'm pretty certain we can conclude that any strenuous load bearing parts of the "uniframe" are separate from the "hanging" parts at the front.

And have you not seen that there IS a front crossmember, right behind your bumper?

You can see in the last picture the overlap seam, where the "rear" portion folds up, if you look in the background just in front of the alternator.

[zluster]

I'm gonna argue with him for you;

Go open your hood and start removing your air box, you will see there is an overlapping seam just under it, separating the rear half of the engine bay from the front. Just from some visual inspections right now I'm fairly positive the gauge of steel bumps down from rear to front. The shock "tower" even has some reinforcement on the underside.

If any of that makes sense, I'm pretty certain we can conclude that any strenuous load bearing parts of the "uniframe" are separate from the "hanging" parts at the front.

And have you not seen that there IS a front crossmember, right behind your bumper?

You can see in the last picture the overlap seam, where the "rear" portion folds up, if you look in the background just in front of the alternator.

Spot on, the front fender supports are a much thinner steel than the body behind them.

To top it all off the factory headlight buckets are held on with 6 spot welds, and with the header and upper radiator support off are pretty flimsy.

Nothing about that part of the body is important to he overall integrity of the chassis.

[zluster]

They are junk. When we first did this I did not lament that we were not able to get fenders.

The second time I was like.....hey, sure why not, $50 isn't that bad, lets get em, it will save me the hassle of having to hack up some US fenders.

So I get them finally, I'm all excited so I can finally get to work on my front end and check things out. And no disrespect to chris because I know its not his fault, but between all the shipping and everything, they just get too beat up.

Now lets say in future orders we get lucky and the fenders aren't beat up. They are of such poor manufacture I think it will take more time to get them to fit correctly, I will take some more pics tomorrow so you can see what I am talking about.

For starters, there is extra material in the a pillar area that keeps the fender from sitting flush in. That needs to be trimmed.

The edge where the fender meets the visible part of the windshield A pillar on the outside is an easy place to see an aftermarket fender. only the OEM tooling really duplicates the curve right, aftermarket parts don't goto the trouble to fit very flush. If you've seen the aftermarket parts I am talking about then you know what I mean on the windshield pillar area. These alexparts fenders are the worst I have ever seen they just sort to end, basically an edge, no curve to fit up.

Up around the top front edge where the fender meets the header the metal is bent over the front vertical support, when its bent over on most it gets squared off nicely, these end up with a rounded edge that not only would have a poor fit against the header panel(if I could even get them to fit together) but during the stamping process the metal becomes distorted and is wavy, I dont even want to think about what it would take to smooth that over properly.

Next up is the bit of bracktry that bolts up to the header, as I posted before the upper mount to attach the header panel is the same style as the 97+ fenders.

Well when you look at the 97 fenders its fairly thick steel that the mount bracket is made from, something like 1/8th inch. On this alex fender the same bracket is stamped from the same thin steel as the fender is, I don't know what gauge it is, but its thin, thinner than the sheet on the cheapest aftermarket parts you can buy here.

Now on top of that, the mount is so poorly copied that it forces the header panel to sit nearly a half inch further forward than it should, I simply cannot get the header to sit all the way back as it should.

Like I said before, the sheet is thin, real thin, real tin, the fenders just sound tinny, cheap, bad.

Little things are off too, know those slots that the rubber hood bump stops rest on? Well one of them is crooked on my fenders.


Today I bought two OEM fenders at the junkyard. I have an aftermarket US fender here I am going to practice modifying on, then I will move onto my "good" fenders.

Now that we have some chinese ones to use as a template, I plan to make paper templates, scan them in, and then other people can print them, and cut them out to modify good US fenders.

The 2500 fenders were a waste of money, I wish I had not bought 2 sets of them.

[urban yan]

WOW... that really sucks, but it's not surprising.
China, isn't exactly renowned for its automotive excellence.

[1bolt]

and with the header and upper radiator support off are pretty flimsy.

Nothing about that part of the body is important to he overall integrity of the chassis.

I disagree the whole front core support is a 3d "cross member" the very concept behind a unibody vehicle is to use everything to increase the overall rigidity. Yes the bulk of the structure is behind the bumper, but that area is far less massive than a typical frame cross member. Just like rolling beads in sheetmetal, the 3d structure doesn't add mass, but it does add a lot of strength.

The stamped steel upper radiator support is an excellent example I'm glad you mentioned it... stuff really moves when you take it off. Along with everything else it is a part of what makes the core support a rigid structural member. Everything that creates tension or rigidity adds to the overall structure. There's a quote from a AMC engineer floating around the net somewhere that says even the windshield glass was accounted for when they were revising the original unibody design. Don't tell me they put a thick stamped steel upper rad support in their because they were afraid the radiator would wiggle out and run away :) Or because the fiberglass header and plastic grill are so massive.

Anyway have fun do what you want disagree all you want, I'll stop hijacking the thread. :yelclap:

[1bolt]

Just remembered one other tid bit: the number of times I've needed to rock or roll an MJ or XJ a little to get the upper support bolted back on both sides...

[BonesBrosChris]

They are junk......
So I get them finally, I'm all excited so I can finally get to work on my front end and check things out. And no disrespect to chris because I know its not his fault, but between all the shipping and everything, they just get too beat up.....


Why would I be disrespected? :) While I do feel the fenders are a bit dodgy and not worth the money, it just came down to thats what everyone wanted, but now seeing the product.... if there was a future order I would advise against buying them mainly because its just not cost effective to purchase a 'new' fender and having to spend time and money doing body work on them. I would think you can mod a US OE fender and come out a with less money and time invested. I do think that they are o.k. some some of the people on here who might not be doing the type of work that you do on XJ's. And all I mean by that is that you rebuild vehicles to a 'new' condition and are looking for a level of quality and fit-n-finish that I know some people on here might not care about.
It just came down to this, the fenders are not perfect and the way they shipped them beat the crap out of them. On top of that everyone that I have left seems to be a little different.... some have more meat in the top by the windscreen, some feel thicker, some thinner, some in primer, some bare metal and some are just beat flat.
And I know how you feel Sam.... I got a stack of them sitting in the corner!

-Chris

[1bolt]

Chris I guess no one wants you to feel like the messenger is being aimed at :)

I've got the broken grill and it along with the tail lights leads me to believe that Alex parts is primarily exporting factory seconds, blems and pieces that fail quality assurance which might explain why the fenders were in various states of finish. I doubt even the Chinese accept this poor quality level in production vehicles.

Tail lights have area's that are hand touched up with epoxy where the plastic resin didn't penetrate the mold fully, the tail lights I got are not 100% identical. They look like two different suppliers they are close enough that you have to put them next to each other and really look to notice differences, one has clouded lenses. When I test fitted the tails I instantly broke the tab that slides into the lower anchor, super brittle didn't even take effort so be careful.

The header has some awful fiberlgass work. I think any future orders should take the old saying you get what you pay for to heart. I am almost scared to order a set of the composite headlights :)

[Muad'Dib]

Dang all this makes me wonder if i should even try to get the 2500 fenders to work. My plan was take it all into a body shop and have them do it so it would come out looking professional. I wonder if they would charge me more to try and make the 2500 fenders work, or to just cut up an OEM fender?

If i was to use OEM fenders, which ones would i go with? 97+ or the former? I thought it didnt matter, but after you said that the header panel mounts to the top just like the 97+ fenders, this made me think that i needed 97+ fenders.

Anyway .. it will still be awhile before i will have the money to do it. I would do it myself, but this is my only vehicle so having that much downtime to get everything right isnt an option.

[BonesBrosChris]

I'm in the same boat as you guys, I didn't high grade the stuff and keep all the good ones, in fact I kept almost all the beat to crap stuff because it didn't feel right to send it out. And for this exact reason I was really hesitant to do another order, but here we are again and the same stuff is being brought up again just like the first time. I went into it with the understanding that since the stuff just so cheap (price-wise) I figured the "quality" would be the same. And since they got us by the sack because they are on the other side of the world.... what can you do if we either get screwed or the stuff is all broken? I think the header panels are of lower quality than the first batch last year even, but some on this batch had weird little notches cut into them. And since they are shipped without boxes the extra heavy fiber-glass is the only thing that makes them show up in one piece, but 3 didn't make it and if they were thinner even less would have. The only thing crappy about the headlamps is (touch wood) the crap bulbs they come with, but nobody has put a 2500 together and done any long term "testing" to see if they fill with water, fog or yellow... so I don't know, it's just a risk. Your correct, you get what you pay for. I don't think Alex makes this stuff for production line vehicles.... I think they just make some aftermarket crash replacement stuff of low quality. I need to test fit the stuff and see for myself which I guess I could do on the MJ since its tore down in the garage but I feel it's going to be the same as zlusters in initial mock-up fit and finish..... meaning it going to need a ton of work to not look like sh!t.

I would use the pre 97 fenders as they have the correct upper squared off edge and because the fender is not cut off in front like the 97-01's.

[zluster]

Dang all this makes me wonder if i should even try to get the 2500 fenders to work. My plan was take it all into a body shop and have them do it so it would come out looking professional. I wonder if they would charge me more to try and make the 2500 fenders work, or to just cut up an OEM fender?

If i was to use OEM fenders, which ones would i go with? 97+ or the former? I thought it didnt matter, but after you said that the header panel mounts to the top just like the 97+ fenders, this made me think that i needed 97+ fenders.

Anyway .. it will still be awhile before i will have the money to do it. I would do it myself, but this is my only vehicle so having that much downtime to get everything right isnt an option.

the header panel bolts differently on the 97+ fenders, but its not like its a deal breaker, I'm going to take a small piece of strap give it two little bends, drill one hole, and then spot weld it onto the US 96 fender. Problem solved.

The main difference between using the US fenders and the alex fenders is that when the job is done one will look like a quality fit product(because its OEM) and the other will look like a ghetto repair special.

I've used a lot of aftermarket parts(ie that is, cheap crap parts). And I don't think any of them were this bad. This is more like a facsimile of a Jeep fender.

Now the other parts I got the first time we ordered were quite a bit better, the headlights, flares, header panel etc, all felt every good, the only exception to that was the rough cut bulb sockets on the tail light housings.

Anyways, now that we took the plunge, got the fenders, and were the Guinea pig, no one has to deal with the expense and hassle of these things. We can make templates off the junk ones we have here and get a quality fit OEM 2500 made.

Like I said, generally I'm pretty lax about these things, heck a running joke about me on a bunch of forums is how many colors my cars are, but even I am looking at these fenders going "I can't deal with this. These are just too poorly made."


I'll try to get pics tonight to show what I am talking about.

[Muad'Dib]

Ok, so it sounds like either older style or newer style (97+) fenders can be used because either way, they are going to have to be modified? (cut to accept the new headlights, and possibly welded tabs for mounting purposes). The big reason why i ask is because my jeep is a 90, and i want to make sure i have the right fenders before i take my shit into the body shop.

Another thing not many people have thought about is (from looking at your pics too there zluster) there is no hole for the radio antenna. At least my passenger 2500 fender doesnt have it.

Everyones thoughts are along the same line as mine. They dont make these parts for OEM replacement. There is no way this kind of quality is acceptable. Hell i bet alexparts is only around because of us chumps in the US who want 2500 parts !!! Makes me want to almost null this project and just stay with my current front end, or possibly a 97+.

I also wonder about the headlamps. I wonder if they will fade like the tail lights? Who knows. The even bigger problem is that if they are installed on a DD and have a problem. what then? Drive without one headlight until you can get a replacement 6 months later :P

[zluster]

Ok, so it sounds like either older style or newer style (97+) fenders can be used because either way, they are going to have to be modified? (cut to accept the new headlights, and possibly welded tabs for moutning purposes). The big reason why i ask is because my jeep is a 90, and i want to make sure i have the right fenders before i take my shit into the body shop.

Another thing not many people have thought about is (from looking at your pics too there zluster) there is no hole for the radio antenna. At least my passenger 2500 fender doesnt have it.

Everyones thoughts are along the same line as mine. They dont make these parts for OEM replacement. There is no way this kind of quality is acceptable. Hell i bet alexparts is only around because of us chumps in the US who want 2500 parts !!!

The 2500 doesn't have the antenna in the fender. if you were going to use the 2500 fender you could possibly plug the hole for the side marker with the antenna from a liberty or a TJ.

Your 90 fenders could be modified no problem. A real shop should competent people who can figure it out. Combined with a scanned paper template printed out you should be able to get them to do a quality job on fitting them.

[Muad'Dib]

The 2500 doesn't have the antenna in the fender. if you were going to use the 2500 fender you could possibly plug the hole for the side marker with the antenna from a liberty or a TJ.

Your 90 fenders could be modified no problem. A real shop should competent people who can figure it out. Combined with a scanned paper template printed out you should be able to get them to do a quality job on fitting them.

Or just bring them the 2500 fenders for their own comparison. That should work.

[BonesBrosChris]

Any body shop worth a crap would be able to cut and paste the headlamp opening. You could make the holes for the turn marker lamps and the flare holes on the bottom of the fender.... if you were going to run the 2500 flares and water proof.

Funny, I never noticed they lack radio antenna holes :o

[BonesBrosChris]

Everyones thoughts are along the same line as mine. They dont make these parts for OEM replacement. There is no way this kind of quality is acceptable. Hell i bet alexparts is only around because of us chumps in the US who want 2500 parts :P

I was just pointing it out for the next group down the road who might be interested in this stuff, just getting it on record :) Don't know who buys this stuff, until the first order I never heard or seen anyone with it in the states? I do know they seem to build a bunch of other stuff for different makes of vehicles... per the site. I did some research on them before the first order and there is just nothing out there good or bad about Alex Parts, but that was last year.
-Chris

[1bolt]

I would put money on it that Alex Parts is purely a brokerage, a reseller. They probably don't make a single thing, they source large lots of factory cast offs, seconds and blems, and they probably sell to every country that has XJ/2500 probably sell more to Korea or Taiwan than the USA.

[zluster]

I would put money on it that Alex Parts is purely a brokerage, a reseller. They probably don't make a single thing, they source large lots of factory cast offs, seconds and blems, and they probably sell to every country that has XJ/2500 probably sell more to Korea or Taiwan than the USA.

these parts are not factory cast offs. I can tell by looking at them and looking at the 2500 that the same machine that stamped the 2500 fenders is not the same machine that is stamping these.

the alex parts are knock offs of the OEM 2500 parts.

The only 2500 still being sold is being sold with the 5 slot grill, and has been, for about 2 years now.

[zluster]

this gap gets better, but its going to take a lot of work to sit flush.
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ211.jpg

But then look at a US OEM fender, you can see that its many times better quality in the stamping.
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ212.jpg

All sorts of rippled and nasty looking:
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ213.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ214.jpg
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ215.jpg

this is the upper header bolt that you want to duplicate:
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ216.jpg
Once again you want to make a 97+ upper mount for the 96 fender, and then you want the lower 96 mount.
http://colorado4wheel.com/images/1988_MJ/MJ217.jpg

Also, this is what your bent over support looks like after modifying it to clear the 2500 header.

[1bolt]

these parts are not factory cast offs. I can tell by looking at them and looking at the 2500 that the same machine that stamped the 2500 fenders is not the same machine that is stamping these.

the alex parts are knock offs of the OEM 2500 parts.

The only 2500 still being sold is being sold with the 5 slot grill, and has been, for about 2 years now.

Okay Chip Foose, they are seconds, blems and castoffs of knock offs. :peace:

[BonesBrosChris]

Okay Chip Foose......
:shhh:

LOL

[BonesBrosChris]

Not to jack your thread Sam, here are the pics of the ones I tossed on last night.

Here are the 2500 fenders mounted to the truck. I had to re-shape the part up by the windscreen, and still have some more work to get it to look right. This fender had a pretty bad fold where the headlamp cutout is located.
Picture of 97+ fender that was on the truck.
http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo193/BBCchris/1989%20Comanche%20MJ/DSC00626.jpg
Now with the 2500 fenders
http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo193/BBCchris/1989%20Comanche%20MJ/DSC00627.jpg
http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo193/BBCchris/1989%20Comanche%20MJ/DSC00628.jpg
http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo193/BBCchris/1989%20Comanche%20MJ/DSC00631.jpg
http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo193/BBCchris/1989%20Comanche%20MJ/DSC00630.jpg
http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo193/BBCchris/1989%20Comanche%20MJ/DSC00629.jpg
http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo193/BBCchris/1989%20Comanche%20MJ/DSC00633.jpg
http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo193/BBCchris/1989%20Comanche%20MJ/DSC00632.jpg

So are they useable? Yes, but it's going to take some work. I'll put the header panel on this weekend to see how well it fit up. I didn't really want to use the clip on the truck, but if I rework the core area to fit the header..... there is no going back.

[BonesBrosChris]

Well after thinking about those 2500 fenders from Alex parts I came to the conclusion that they just won't fit and look "right". They just don't fit good enough to get good gaps. To get the door gap looking right it won't reach the header panel :dunno: ..... so I went to the wreckers and got 2 OE fenders and made some 2500 fenders.
http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo193/BBCchris/1989%20Comanche%20MJ/OEFender1.jpg
http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo193/BBCchris/1989%20Comanche%20MJ/2500Fenderaftercut.jpg
http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo193/BBCchris/1989%20Comanche%20MJ/OEFender2.jpg
http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo193/BBCchris/1989%20Comanche%20MJ/OEFenderCut1.jpg
http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo193/BBCchris/1989%20Comanche%20MJ/OEFenderCut2.jpg
http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo193/BBCchris/1989%20Comanche%20MJ/OEFenderCut3.jpg
http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo193/BBCchris/1989%20Comanche%20MJ/OEFenderCut5.jpg
http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo193/BBCchris/1989%20Comanche%20MJ/OEFenderCut6.jpg
Well now they fit right and have have the quality of the OE fenders.... because they are the OE fenders.

-Chris

[Muad'Dib]

you suck

[BonesBrosChris]

you suck

Ok.... why?
I just want it to look right..... well, as right as a 2500 clip is going to look on a MJ.

[Muad'Dib]

Ok.... why?
I just want it to look right..... well, as right as a 2500 clip is going to look on a MJ.

Because your doing it and im not ;)

I really want to get mine on just dont have the time or money.

What are you doing to mount the header panel to your newly created fenders?

[BonesBrosChris]

Just going to replicate the front mount on the Alex Parts fenders. The 2500 header uses the same metal 'L' bracket that mounts the US header to the core support. There are bolt studs located on the upper front of the 2500 fenders that tie in the outer part of the header panel.... they were just removed from it because I was doing some cutting and grinding. I'm also going to remove, cut and weld the inner brace (visible in the front-on picture behind the opening) when I go and slip in the header panel.

The 2500 header panel lines are not as crisp as they should be either so the area above the headlamp is going to need some work to get it to flow into the fender lines.

-Chris

[urban yan]

congrats. you're the first guy I know sporting a "cherokee pioneer 2500' :D

[BonesBrosChris]

congrats. you're the first guy I know sporting a "cherokee pioneer 2500' :D

And on the other side it's a "Cherokee Laredo 2500"

:)

[urban yan]

And on the other side it's a "Cherokee Laredo 2500"

:)
lolz. nothing wrong with that.

[BonesBrosChris]

I just need to find a "hybrid" emblem for it.

[urban yan]

Why stop there? I would throw-in a couple of these for good measure :D
http://i18.ebayimg.com/03/i/001/41/74/e911_1.JPG

[BonesBrosChris]

And your going to need to remove the header panel mount pieces off the Alex fenders to use on the OE US fenders. I'm going to remake them because they are of the same top notch quality as the fenders.

Note the rust under the grey paint/primer.
http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo193/BBCchris/1989%20Comanche%20MJ/2500HeaderSupport2.jpg
http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo193/BBCchris/1989%20Comanche%20MJ/2500HeaderSupport1.jpg

And if there was any more doubt about the quality of these fenders check out the lower mount stud.
http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo193/BBCchris/1989%20Comanche%20MJ/2500Quality2.jpg
http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo193/BBCchris/1989%20Comanche%20MJ/2500Quality.jpg Nice phillips screw. :rolleyes:
enough said.

[BonesBrosChris]

And since nobody else posts pictures of their build........ here is the truck with the 2500 nose on some hybrid fenders. Still needs some fit and finish work but it is looking better than the first attempt with the China fenders. It's weird how much the header hangs over where the stock bumper goes. ;)
http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo193/BBCchris/1989%20Comanche%20MJ/2500CliponMJ1.jpg
http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo193/BBCchris/1989%20Comanche%20MJ/2500CliponMJ2.jpg
-Chris

[zluster]

looking good, let us know when you get something figured out for mounting the headlights to the header, I'm still not sure where I am going with that one.

[xjcody]

Looking good Chris. After seeing how bad the china fenders fit, I think I'll copy your idea and make some hybrid ones. Do you happen to have anymore header panels that you would sell :D? Mine is beat pretty bad and wanted to see before I take mine to the fiberglass guy.

[BonesBrosChris]

The header in the picture was broken down the middle and the other one I have is broken in the lamp bucket. Now on to fitting the headlamps...... I'm starting to think that Alex Parts has never seen a real 2500 and just copied the stuff from photo's. The headlamps fit like crap. From what I can tell the 2 studs on the back locate it in the header and there are 2 screw clip on the top of the lamp to secure it to the header.

*If you use the studs to locate it..... they are cantered and the gap is not consistant. So I removed the studs to try and get a better fit but it's not much better.
*The 2 screws on top of the lamp assy. are 3/4" away from the header panel and if you were to tighten them down it would either break the lamp or crack the header.

So I don't know really how much more I want to do..... It's no fun getting kicked in the bag everynight, it's like one step forward five back. This stuff is holding me up. And I hate to say it but if I don't see some more progress in the next week I'm going to put the 97+ stuff that was on it back on and move on to the paint. And the 2500 stuff can wait until another day when I have more mock-up time.

-Chris

[JeepCherokeeGuy99]

looking good, let us know when you get something figured out for mounting the headlights to the header, I'm still not sure where I am going with that one.

i used 2 hose clamps and put the two top screws in.

[BonesBrosChris]

Well lets see some pics of it! No need to be greedy with them.
-Chris

[urban yan]

Indeed, where the heck are the rest of those pics?

[BonesBrosChris]

Indeed, where the heck are the rest of those pics?

That seems to be the trend....

And on a side note.... I did some more "trimming" on the MJ and I think I got it to fit now. Still need to fit the engine lid and check the gaps and such.

[JeepCherokeeGuy99]

That seems to be the trend....

And on a side note.... I did some more "trimming" on the MJ and I think I got it to fit now. Still need to fit the engine lid and check the gaps and such.

what do you think the best way to fix the hood gap? maybe trim the two springs so it can lower a bit more. its solid 1/2 inch above the fiberglass header.

[zluster]

what do you think the best way to fix the hood gap? maybe trim the two springs so it can lower a bit more. its solid 1/2 inch above the fiberglass header.

uh, somethings not right there, sounds like you need to post some pictures of what you have going on.

[JeepCherokeeGuy99]

uh, somethings not right there, sounds like you need to post some pictures of what you have going on.

k ill send them to chris so he can post em. im just sayin that the hood sits a little higher than the top of the header

[urban yan]

Post them on www.photobucket.com. It's free.

[BonesBrosChris]

Thats why you need to spend some time fitting the parts and not get rushed. I'm shocked yours just went on. I had to really work on the drivers bucket as well as the backside of the header where it almost contacts the core support. You need to remember that every part on the front of the Jeep is adjustable... the header, fenders, hood and such.
Since you didn't send me any pics to post my thought is that since the China fenders are not exactly 'right' that the front of the fenders are mounted to low and then you mated the header to that and it looks low as a result.

But send those pics over and I'll post em up for you.

-Chris

[BonesBrosChris]

Where the hell are those pictures at? :thumbdn:























That is all
-Chris

[hubs97xj]

Don't tell us you're the only one actually doing and documenting this?

[urban yan]

I think everyone else had their parts framed and mounted on the wall.
This is getting ridiculous.... someone else post an update!!!

[REDXJ4FUN]

I wish I had enought time to play with it, I've spent all my spare time rebuilding my race car.

[zluster]

Don't tell us you're the only one actually doing and documenting this?

So far chris and I are the only ones to document this at all.


there have been several people before us who used these parts, they just dissappeared into the woodwork.

[urban yan]

At this point I think it would be prudent to put a sub-dermal tracking device on you and Chris so we don't lose you guys too.

[BonesBrosChris]

Well I got all it all to fit and the gaps look good. The only part I have to finish is the front of the hood to header panel gap... it's about 1/4" on the outside (above the head lamps) and is almost touching in the center. I'll snap some more pictures this weekend. Oh, and I have to get the lamps to sit a bit better.







...... still waiting on those pictures!

[JeepCherokeeGuy99]

http://co102w.col102.mail.live.com/att/GetAttachment.aspx?tnail=0&messageId=2d5b18bb-3e98-455f-a760-c255986f0ee6&Aux=4|0|8CB98BAB12E57B0|

[Kittrell]

You can't upload a pic from your computer. You have to host it somewhere.

www.photobucket.com

[BonesBrosChris]

Just send it to me and I'll post it up.

[BonesBrosChris]

Here is the pic from Jeepcherokeeboy97
http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo193/BBCchris/Image052.jpg
Can you snap a pic of the hood to fender gap as well as the hood to header panel gap and fender to windscreen gap. It's hard to see from the picture. See if you can get a close 3/4 view.

-Chris

[BonesBrosChris]

http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo193/BBCchris/Image053.jpg

[BonesBrosChris]

Well I finally got the clip to fit......
http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo193/BBCchris/1989%20Comanche%20MJ/DSC00667.jpg
http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo193/BBCchris/1989%20Comanche%20MJ/DSC00668.jpg
http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo193/BBCchris/1989%20Comanche%20MJ/DSC00669.jpg
http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo193/BBCchris/1989%20Comanche%20MJ/DSC00670.jpg

The color makes it look weird but I'm happy with the fit of each part.

[urban yan]

Those are some pretty tight tolerances.... especially for a Jeep.
I'm impressed.

[BonesBrosChris]

Thanks. Mount, adjust, sand, mount, adjust, sand, mount, adjust, sand.... x1000 :)
I even got the headlamps to fit. I want them to fit a bit better so I'm going to work on them tonight.

[JeepCherokeeGuy99]

let me know when your headin to pismo so you can help me make mine look that pristine :-P im thinking about grinding my old fenders to fit the headlights, rather than cut and weld. what do you think? did the metal warp when you welded it?

[FlexdXJ]

http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo193/BBCchris/Image053.jpg

I'm impressed you made chinese parts fit that good but i just can't get used to the look of a 2500!:passgas:

[BonesBrosChris]

let me know when your headin to pismo so you can help me make mine look that pristine :-P im thinking about grinding my old fenders to fit the headlights, rather than cut and weld. what do you think? did the metal warp when you welded it?

It didn't warp at all. I did about 150 tack welds on until all the holes were gone. You just have to work really slow and wait until it cools before doing the next tack. And that is the part that always bites me in the ass.... I get rushed. The metal on the Alex fenders is thinner than the OE stuff and even on the welders lowest setting it would burn through, so I ran the welder with a 15' extension cord to knock the power down some more. It's not perfect but I'm happy with the way it turned out.
I just couldn't figure out a way with the stuff I have to make the ridge in the lamp cutout if I just cut the hole out. So even if someone has to weld it for you I feel that it is the best option.
-Chris

[Muad'Dib]

Im starting to second guess weather or not im going to do this. There is a lot of work involved, and my Jeep is my only vehicle. Even if i had another vehicle, my jeep would still be my daily driver. What happens if you do some damage to the front? Some Jerk busts a headlight?

Its not like you can go online and just buy a replacement....

Anyway its all still up in the air for me.. If i decide to not do it, i will have some front end parts for sale along with the tail lights im already selling.

[urban yan]

Im starting to second guess weather or not im going to do this. There is a lot of work involved, and my Jeep is my only vehicle. Even if i had another vehicle, my jeep would still be my daily driver. What happens if you do some damage to the front? Some Jerk busts a headlight?

Its not like you can go online and just buy a replacement....

Anyway its all still up in the air for me.. If i decide to not do it, i will have some front end parts for sale along with the tail lights im already selling.
I would-have bought some spare parts with the order just in case (especially a spare set of headlights... there's no way they're build to last)

[JeepCherokeeGuy99]

Im starting to second guess weather or not im going to do this. There is a lot of work involved, and my Jeep is my only vehicle. Even if i had another vehicle, my jeep would still be my daily driver. What happens if you do some damage to the front? Some Jerk busts a headlight?

Its not like you can go online and just buy a replacement....

Anyway its all still up in the air for me.. If i decide to not do it, i will have some front end parts for sale along with the tail lights im already selling.

Thats why im having nates4x4 build me a bumper. To protect the headlights and header. I'm getting the Slimeline recessed winch bumper with 4" longer support brackets (2500 header sticks out 4" more than stock) also, just a head up guys, ive had to replace both turn signal bulbs. They simply just blew up after a couple weeks. easy replacement though. If i were you id swap the bulbs before you put them to use.

[JeepCherokeeGuy99]

It didn't warp at all. I did about 150 tack welds on until all the holes were gone. You just have to work really slow and wait until it cools before doing the next tack. And that is the part that always bites me in the ass.... I get rushed. The metal on the Alex fenders is thinner than the OE stuff and even on the welders lowest setting it would burn through, so I ran the welder with a 15' extension cord to knock the power down some more. It's not perfect but I'm happy with the way it turned out.
I just couldn't figure out a way with the stuff I have to make the ridge in the lamp cutout if I just cut the hole out. So even if someone has to weld it for you I feel that it is the best option.
-Chris

I think im going to grind it, that way i can keep the paint looking good. Also, to be honest i dont think that ridge makes a big difference at all. if anything, you could run rubber lines on the sides of the cut out. I think i going to start doing it tomorrow. If so, ill take a bunch of pics of the progress

[BonesBrosChris]

Ok, just tape it off good incase the grinder gets away from you.

[pcbearden]

How do i get the bj 2500 parts? i have read all the threads i could find. i want to do this to a few jeeps and if they go well maybe make alot of them. but i would like to know how to get the parts and what the costs are... i have the parts costs but what about shipping that seems like the deal breaker... anyways if anyone knows that would be nice... ohhh and one other thing if i make one is it cool to put a "I got a bj" sticker on it??

[JeepCherokeeGuy99]

you have to order the parts through alexparts.com pretty much the only way to do that is to buy a mass quanity. (group buy) with more people this will cut the shipping down. For example, I bought all of the exterior peices except for the mirrors. total came to $406.00 Once the parts got to the states i paid $212.00 to have it shipped to my house. So it costs no more than $700 I recommend you dont buy the plastics, Since they do not sell the supports or brackets to hold them on. I'm stuck with all the plastics lol. You can start another group buy if you like. Call it Jeep 2500 Conversion order #3 I'll help you out with any questions you have. First step is to start a thread and a list of who wants what. Then contact alexparts.com They well give you more info. I see your from east jordan? i take it thats the country jordan? If so, It will be very difficult for you to get the parts. unless you have it shipped to the states first then shipped back to you. Alex parts ships to san diego harbor.

[Kittrell]

If so, It will be very difficult for you to get the parts. unless you have it shipped to the states first then shipped back to you. Alex parts ships to san diego harbor.

Do you know something about Jordan that we don't?

[JeepCherokeeGuy99]

Do you know something about Jordan that we don't?

No, im just saying that he will most likely not be able to find enough people in his area to get the parts. Since he's on NAXJA most of us are in the states or canada correct? And alexparts wont make multiple stops, so the most logical thing to do is ship it here first then there. Unless he has enough people in his area to make the order.

[BonesBrosChris]

He might be talking about East Jordan Michigan. :)

Hey Jeepcherokeeboy, did you get going on those fenders?
-Chris

[JeepCherokeeGuy99]

He might be talking about East Jordan Michigan. :)

Hey Jeepcherokeeboy, did you get going on those fenders?
-Chris

Ohhh well that would make sense then :-P and na I didn't get started on it yet.

[pcbearden]

yeah guys... east jordan michigan... no camels here... but there are some camel toes... anyways how many people were involved in the group buy you guys did... to get the prices you got?? i already shot ALEX an email and told him i heard some of the parts were cheap... and ask him the normal questions.... anyhow me and my buddy were thinkin about doing a few cherokees and maybe a comanche.... he is more the mechanic and i am more the fabricater ... anyways we have done half a dozen cjs and a couple broncos... but this conversion looks like a good way to "polish a turd" and flip it for some decent cash...

[Kittrell]

yeah guys... east jordan michigan... no camels here... but there are some camel toes... anyways how many people were involved in the group buy you guys did... to get the prices you got?? i already shot ALEX an email and told him i heard some of the parts were cheap... and ask him the normal questions.... anyhow me and my buddy were thinkin about doing a few cherokees and maybe a comanche.... he is more the mechanic and i am more the fabricater ... anyways we have done half a dozen cjs and a couple broncos... but this conversion looks like a good way to "polish a turd" and flip it for some decent cash...

If you follow the few builds, the parts are kind of shite. It would be a lot of work for a flipper.

[JeepCherokeeGuy99]

just installed the HID'S It looks SICK!!! MUCH better visability. Ill snap some pix if anyone interested in intsalling them in their 2500 headlamps

[urban yan]

What do 2500 headlamps use? H4s?

[JeepCherokeeGuy99]

What do 2500 headlamps use? H4s?

yes sir. the swap is extremely easy too.

[BonesBrosChris]

Send the pics over and I'll post em up.

[Muad'Dib]

How are the headlights adjusted once they are in there? Have we figured out how to even mount them to the header panel yet?

[JeepCherokeeGuy99]

How are the headlights adjusted once they are in there? Have we figured out how to even mount them to the header panel yet?

they arent really adjustable. I hooked em in using the two top screws and hose clamps for the stud parts. i wasnt able to get hose clamps in the top stud cuz it doesnt stick out far enough. So instead i used acorn caps for the top studs.

[BonesBrosChris]

Here are his pic's
http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo193/BBCchris/100_0110.jpg
http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo193/BBCchris/100_0111.jpg
http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo193/BBCchris/100_0112.jpg
http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo193/BBCchris/100_0113.jpg

[BonesBrosChris]

This is 1 of the 2 adjustments. There should be a knob assembly where the pen is located.
http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo193/BBCchris/Jeep%202500/DSC00729.jpg
This is the second adjustment.
http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo193/BBCchris/Jeep%202500/DSC00730.jpg
This is just another angle.
http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo193/BBCchris/Jeep%202500/DSC00731.jpg

[urban yan]

It looks positively evil, but I wonder how they work at night (glare? cut-off?)
Also, how many Kelvin is that kit? 6000k? (anything over 6000 is a bad idea)

[JeepCherokeeGuy99]

man i didnt know there was adjustments! thanks chris!

urban: the lights are 1,000,000 times better than the h4 it comes with. Alot better to the sides as well. And the kit i got comes with a hi/lo feature so im pumped on that too. And yes, its 6000.

[JeepCherokeeGuy99]

Here are his pic's



http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo193/BBCchris/100_0111.jpg



im thinkin bout switching the turn and circular lights to LED cuz as you can see the diffence in brightness is pretty extreme. Hopefully, ill be able to somewhat match the brightness.

[JeepCherokeeGuy99]

chris how the heck did you fix that darn hood gap! lol

[BonesBrosChris]

chris how the heck did you fix that darn hood gap! lol

On mine I had to use more hood hinge shims in the back to bring it up proper to the cowl area on the fenders... after that I adjusted the hood hold down latches behind each lamp. If you pull the hood down to far it becomes lower than the fenders... if you still need more, like I did, then you have to start sanding away at the inside of the header where it is contacting the core support. When all that rubbish was done the header was almost touching the very center of the hood and on the outside there was a 1/4"+ gap. The only way to solve that problem is to reshape the backside of the header to get a consistent gap along the whole leading edge of the hood.

Lot's of fun.....

[JeepCherokeeGuy99]

On mine I had to use more hood hinge shims in the back to bring it up proper to the cowl area on the fenders... after that I adjusted the hood hold down latches behind each lamp. If you pull the hood down to far it becomes lower than the fenders... if you still need more, like I did, then you have to start sanding away at the inside of the header where it is contacting the core support. When all that rubbish was done the header was almost touching the very center of the hood and on the outside there was a 1/4"+ gap. The only way to solve that problem is to reshape the backside of the header to get a consistent gap along the whole leading edge of the hood.

Lot's of fun.....


sounds like a blast....lol. so what if i cut the 2 springs a little bit that push the hood up. think that'll work?

[zluster]

man i didnt know there was adjustments! thanks chris!

urban: the lights are 1,000,000 times better than the h4 it comes with. Alot better to the sides as well. And the kit i got comes with a hi/lo feature so im pumped on that too. And yes, its 6000.

Yes, the H4's they come with are just crap, total crap.

I sold the H4's that came with the headlights in my silver XJ when I sold it, I pulled out my 105watt H4s and put them into the 2500 lights.

I was also thinking about putting in some HID converts, in both the headlights and the foglights.

[stevend510]

Did you upgrade the wiring harness with the bulb change?

[JeepCherokeeGuy99]

Did you upgrade the wiring harness with the bulb change?

if your talking to me, no i did not.

[stevend510]

if your talking to me, no i did not.


I guess I should have been a little more clear.
I thought about upgrading mine to a little bit bigger wire. I will post pictures if I ever get my bumper in.

[BonesBrosChris]

sounds like a blast....lol. so what if i cut the 2 springs a little bit that push the hood up. think that'll work?

You need to adjust the bolts on each side. You might need to remove some of the shims under the top bolt.
http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo193/BBCchris/1989%20Comanche%20MJ/DSC00631-1.jpg

[JeepCherokeeGuy99]

what do you mean by adjusting? what exactly do i need o do to em. Lower them?

[BonesBrosChris]

Loosen both bolts and push the striker assembly down..... The top might need a shim removed.

[JeepCherokeeGuy99]

k will do. so what are your plans for a bumper chris?

[BonesBrosChris]

Don't know yet..... It's going to the paint shop today and whenever I get it back I'll figure all that out. It's not going to be a wheeler so I'm not going to do anything crazy.
-Chris

[JeepCherokeeGuy99]

did you get the plastics? if not i have all of em. including the front bumper plastics. just gotta make some supports for it.

[BonesBrosChris]

Yep I got 'em...

[JeepCherokeeGuy99]

are you going to try and make the front bumper plastics work?

[BonesBrosChris]

I'm going to try to use the 2500 plastics but not the fender flares..... but I might end up just making a bumper for it.

[JeepCherokeeGuy99]

right on. good luck! hey chris did you get my pm about that site for 2500 parts?

[Timmy2XJS]

its hella cool that the 2500 parts are avalable and make ore beloved bricks a bit fancy, but i think it looks like a bastard child of a XJ and a WJ.

to each their own and good luck!

[urban yan]

its hella cool that the 2500 parts are avalable and make ore beloved bricks a bit fancy, but i think it looks like a bastard child of a XJ and a WJ.
I'm on the fence with this retro. Part of me really likes it (in particular the bastard child bit since I own an XJ and a WJ), another part of me thinks it's blasphemy trying to improve the aerodynamics of a brick, and than there's another part of me that worries about the build-quality of these parts.

[BonesBrosChris]

its hella cool that the 2500 parts are avalable and make ore beloved bricks a bit fancy, but i think it looks like a bastard child of a XJ and a WJ.

to each their own and good luck!

I think we all like making something a little different and at times I look at it and totally hate it and sometimes it really starts growing on me. If I don't like it after its painted it's going to get the 97+ clip put back on........

[JeepCherokeeGuy99]

so far all the feedback ive gotten from xj owners around town has been positive. I love the look, and i love the fact that only a handful of us have these parts.

[urban yan]

Definitely. It's always nice to have something different.

[Muad'Dib]

Chris,

After fitting the 2500 front end, how possible is it to revert to the old style again. Either 87-96 or 97+ it doesnt matter.

My biggest concearn is that i have someone do all the work to fit it up, and i get in an accident, or some something else happens where i would have to replace a part... and be up a creek. Thats what has made me decide to sell my parts because it just seems like to big of a hastle for a daily driver. If its as simple as bolting on old parts, then that might change my mind back...

Also, how have the head lights held up? Any fading like the tail lights??

[JeepCherokeeGuy99]

the only modification to your jeep is the core supports. You could weld them back on if you used a plasma cutter to take em off. Ive been running the headlights since Feb. and have no fading. I have H.I.D's in them and them work nicely. The only tricky problem with the headlights is getting them to stay in there lol.

[BonesBrosChris]

Chris,

After fitting the 2500 front end, how possible is it to revert to the old style again. Either 87-96 or 97+ it doesnt matter.

My biggest concearn is that i have someone do all the work to fit it up, and i get in an accident, or some something else happens where i would have to replace a part... and be up a creek. Thats what has made me decide to sell my parts because it just seems like to big of a hastle for a daily driver. If its as simple as bolting on old parts, then that might change my mind back...

Also, how have the head lights held up? Any fading like the tail lights??

I didn't take much off the ears of the core support. It would be very easy to put it back to stock down the road if something changes. It's really just a basic fender and header swap. I do like the look of it now that it is painted and has a motor in it again. :)

[1bolt]

you realize you're now required to post pics after a comment like?

[Muad'Dib]

Did you ever figure out how to attach the headlights to the header panel?

[1bolt]

hhmmm that's supposed to say "after a comment like that?" Comeon chris take some glory shots I don't know what I;m going to do with a broken 2500 grill without some inspiration... Anyone good with glass want a 2500 Grill that's broken, for cheap?

[BonesBrosChris]

If you don't mind a dusty garage, poor lighting picture?
http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo193/BBCchris/1989%20Comanche%20MJ/DSC00760.jpg
http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo193/BBCchris/1989%20Comanche%20MJ/DSC00769.jpg
http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo193/BBCchris/1989%20Comanche%20MJ/DSC00768.jpg
And I did find a way to mount the lamps but I'm still working on the adjusters. As soon as I get the driveline done the fuel lines back in it, I'll wash her off and get some better pictures..... I've been busy working on the Packard for the past few weeks and need to get rolling on the MJ again.

[1bolt]

man I wish I had the time do do more than one project at a time. I have a 445 ft-lb torque Buick Nailhead engine I want to wrap a Willys Jeep pickup/hot rod around, a 65 Mustang 289 Vert that needs new floors and torque boxes and I have a ton of speed parts in boxes waiting to get put on it, a Muscle MJ I want to do which I have most of the parts for... a Wrangler sitting around with no engine.... worst part is I have nearly every part I need to do most of them just no freakin time.... So what color is that, looks familiar?

[urban yan]

I think those clips look allot better on MJs rather than XJs.

[JeepCherokeeGuy99]

I think those clips look allot better on MJs rather than XJs.

since i own an xj im going to have to disagree :-P

[BonesBrosChris]

man I wish I had the time do do more than one project at a time. I have a 445 ft-lb torque Buick Nailhead engine I want to wrap a Willys Jeep pickup/hot rod around, a 65 Mustang 289 Vert that needs new floors and torque boxes and I have a ton of speed parts in boxes waiting to get put on it, a Muscle MJ I want to do which I have most of the parts for... a Wrangler sitting around with no engine.... worst part is I have nearly every part I need to do most of them just no freakin time.... So what color is that, looks familiar?

I've decided to stop having "project" cars sitting around. Either they get worked on or they find a new home. Thats why I'm trying to get the Packard done because it's going to be my summer daily driver. I still have a handful of Willys wagons and truck's waiting for their turn. It's sad to say I'm kinda burned out on building Jeeps and have been that way for 10 years now, but it's been a good supplement to my living.
-Chris

[BonesBrosChris]

One word for 80's quartz technology................ PIMP!
http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo193/BBCchris/1989%20Comanche%20MJ/DSC00770.jpg
http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo193/BBCchris/1989%20Comanche%20MJ/DSC00771.jpg

[JeepCherokeeGuy99]

One word for 80's quartz technology................ PIMP!
http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo193/BBCchris/1989%20Comanche%20MJ/DSC00770.jpg
http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo193/BBCchris/1989%20Comanche%20MJ/DSC00771.jpg

what the heck. thats bad ass! I've never seen that before. Was that a stock option?

[BonesBrosChris]

Mid 80's XJ waggy. I do have all the sensors and piggyback computer to make it work in the MJ but it would be a waste of time. Always wanted to use it in something and figured why not. Probably going to wire it up so the backlight inside it and clock works. It's more of a novelty item.

-C

[Muad'Dib]

All systems go!!

[Kittrell]

Yeah, the system sentry, lasted a model year or two.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v690/Jeep1991/82299104QwrXya_ph.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v690/Jeep1991/124799072cZskaY_ph.jpg

[BonesBrosChris]

Just need a vintage 2 knob AM radio to top it off. j/k Well it beats just keeping it in a box in the garage.

[BonesBrosChris]

Come on it's been over a year since the first order and 6 months since last..... Did any of you guys ever toss the stuff on yet? I'll start naming names, where the pics at? I know Bvillegt and Jeepcherokeeboy did what about the other 20 people?

[urban yan]

Maybe they're all in jail lol
Hey it could happen.

[1bolt]

damn I've been into Jeeps long enough to think I've seen everything put into a XJ or MJ... but that system sentry boggles my mind...

How did they sense fluid levels? did they use special T-cases trans and difs or did they drill and tap them for each sensor?

Anyone have one of those they'd sell for "I might put it on some day but probably not" cheap?

[BonesBrosChris]

The sentry has extra sensors on the brakes as well as the diffs are tapped for sensors. I'm not going to go through the hassel of hooking it up. I did manage to get the backlight and "all systems ok" light working. I'm trying to get the clock to work but it seems that there might be something wrong with it.

[ehall]

chris that thing is only cool if it actually works with all of the right sensors, otherwise it's like carrying a fake cellphone

[BonesBrosChris]

chris that thing is only cool if it actually works with all of the right sensors, otherwise it's like carrying a fake cellphone

Great, so your saying is like having a sock stuffed in my shorts. :) I actually do have all the sensors for it except the brake pad ones. I'm not really into drilling holes in the diff's except for air lines. When all the systems are ok the only light on is the "OK" light near the top. Since I swapped out most of the stock 4cyl MJ harness for a 91'ish 4.0 harness it's just not worth the hassle to try to graft a bunch of extra 86 stuff on it as well.

[JeepCherokeeGuy99]

Come on it's been over a year since the first order and 6 months since last..... Did any of you guys ever toss the stuff on yet? I'll start naming names, where the pics at? I know Bvillegt and Jeepcherokeeboy did what about the other 20 people?

I think most of em got to scared to do the swap. Thats right, i said it...SCARED!!! scared lil Chickens!:scared:






...maybe that will get them to post :rolleyes:

[ehall]

Great, so your saying is like having a sock stuffed in my shorts. :) I actually do have all the sensors for it except the brake pad ones. I'm not really into drilling holes in the diff's except for air lines. When all the systems are ok the only light on is the "OK" light near the top. Since I swapped out most of the stock 4cyl MJ harness for a 91'ish 4.0 harness it's just not worth the hassle to try to graft a bunch of extra 86 stuff on it as well.

I'll put it on my beater if you're too scared to do it to yours

;)

[BonesBrosChris]

I can't take all this peer pressure.

[zluster]

I can't take all this peer pressure.

All the cool kids do it.

[ehall]

If you don't mind a dusty garage, poor lighting picture?
http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo193/BBCchris/1989%20Comanche%20MJ/DSC00760.jpg
http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo193/BBCchris/1989%20Comanche%20MJ/DSC00769.jpg
http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo193/BBCchris/1989%20Comanche%20MJ/DSC00768.jpg
And I did find a way to mount the lamps but I'm still working on the adjusters. As soon as I get the driveline done the fuel lines back in it, I'll wash her off and get some better pictures..... I've been busy working on the Packard for the past few weeks and need to get rolling on the MJ again.

you ever get this finished and put together

did ANYBODY get theirs finished??

[stevend510]

I've had a major setback on mine, but am back on track now. I am going to do mine like Chris did his. The fenders just don't fit like I want them to. I will post pics soon, hopefully.

[kndrewa]

yeah i would like to see a finished product as well..!

[BonesBrosChris]

Here is my semi-finished MJ. Still got to do the lift but it's running and driving again. It was more of a total rebuild, would of been easier if it was just the nose. And it's really dusty in the pics but next week I'll get some good outside shots. My buddy Jake and I are going to build some simple bumpers for it in a few weeks.

http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo193/BBCchris/1989%20Comanche%20MJ/DSC00852.jpg
http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo193/BBCchris/1989%20Comanche%20MJ/DSC00853.jpg
http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo193/BBCchris/1989%20Comanche%20MJ/DSC00854.jpg
The lamps are bolted in and the adjusters are usable!

[JeepCherokeeGuy99]

thats a nice fit chris. Good job.

[Muad'Dib]

Looks great!

[BonesBrosChris]

thats a nice fit chris. Good job.
Thanks man. Those parts have on and off that Jeep so much it was starting to drive me crazy, but in the end I guess it payed off.
-C

[JeepCherokeeGuy99]

ya i know what you mean. I took the header and headlights on and off at least 30 times lol

[BonesBrosChris]

Well I managed to get the headliner redone and the interior buttoned up this weekend. Seems like the weekend is never long enough!
Laying on the new material.
http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo193/BBCchris/1989%20Comanche%20MJ/DSC00856.jpg
All glued down.
http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo193/BBCchris/1989%20Comanche%20MJ/DSC00857.jpg
Installed in the truck - And finished installing the sunroof.
http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo193/BBCchris/1989%20Comanche%20MJ/DSC00860.jpg
Grand seats
http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo193/BBCchris/1989%20Comanche%20MJ/DSC00859.jpg
http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo193/BBCchris/1989%20Comanche%20MJ/DSC00861.jpg

-Chris

[ehall]

chris send me that waggy info center thing and I'll work on getting it wired up in my jeep

[JeepCherokeeGuy99]

looks good chris. What year zj are those seats from? was the install hard?

[Blue 97 XJ]

i like it, and i want a sunroof was it a factory option? was it hard to install? can it be don to an XJ?

[JeepCherokeeGuy99]

i like it, and i want a sunroof was it a factory option? was it hard to install? can it be don to an XJ?

yes it came factory. I would be installing one in mine if i didnt need/want my overhead console.

BTW anything can be done to an xj. As long as you have the time and money.

[BonesBrosChris]

The seats were from an '05 Grand iirc. I bolted them to 97+ XJ sliders and welded in the floor humps (that were also removed from a 97 XJ) to bolt the seats in. The carpet is also from the same XJ. The sunroof was in the truck when I first owned it years ago, so I don't know if it's OE or it was installed after-market in the past 20 years. If I was to take a guess I would say after-market because this truck had no options 2wd, 4cyl, no PS.

-Chris

And blue, whats up with the same picture as JeepCherokeeBoy? Thats kinda weird. :)

[JeepCherokeeGuy99]

my buddies xj is a 91 and came with no options either but had the sun roof as OEM. Manual windows and door locks. no cruise control etc.

[ehall]

And blue, whats up with the same picture as JeepCherokeeBoy? Thats kinda weird. :)
it's one of the stock profile images :twak:

[BonesBrosChris]

it's one of the stock profile images :twak:
Now I feel dumb....... thanks.

[BonesBrosChris]

Well I got it out on it's maiden voyage this past weekend and it got to see the light for the first time in 6 months. Speedo doesn't work and it's got a rear main leak but other than that everything else checked out good!
New glass going in with 97+ rubber seal.
http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo193/BBCchris/1989%20Comanche%20MJ/DSC00864.jpg
http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo193/BBCchris/1989%20Comanche%20MJ/DSC00866.jpg
http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo193/BBCchris/1989%20Comanche%20MJ/DSC00868.jpg
http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo193/BBCchris/1989%20Comanche%20MJ/DSC00869.jpg
http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo193/BBCchris/1989%20Comanche%20MJ/DSC00870.jpg
http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo193/BBCchris/1989%20Comanche%20MJ/DSC00865.jpg
-Chris

[DansGreyMj]

Looks good! Do you have to make any modifications to fit the 97+ rubber seal?

[hubs97xj]

That is sharp.

[BonesBrosChris]

Looks good! Do you have to make any modifications to fit the 97+ rubber seal?

No mods necessary. When the glass guy came out to do the window he removed all the little plastic clips that the stock metal trim hooked to and put the new rubber seal around the glass and glued it in.

-Chris

[ehall]

so he left the metal posts in place?

[BonesBrosChris]

so he left the metal posts in place?

Yes he did. The posts don't interfere with the rubber seal.

-Chris

[vipertech]

Here is a new front clip and hatch.
http://s1013.photobucket.com/albums/af253/vipertech/ (http://s1013.photobucket.com/albums/af253/vipertech/)

[CherBear]

Here is a new front clip and hatch.
http://s1013.photobucket.com/albums/af253/vipertech/ (http://s1013.photobucket.com/albums/af253/vipertech/)

Quit whoring these pictures everywhere. I have seen them in the last 3 threads I have looked at. Make a new thread if you want people to see them.

[BonesBrosChris]

Well now it's 4wd and has a little bit of lift. I'm going to get the exhaust done tomorrow and after the bed liner. I think I'm done with it for a while.
Getting ready to cut the hole for the markers.
http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo193/BBCchris/1989%20Comanche%20MJ/DSC00882.jpg
http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo193/BBCchris/1989%20Comanche%20MJ/DSC00887.jpg
Sticking on the letters.
http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo193/BBCchris/1989%20Comanche%20MJ/DSC00888.jpg
And out in the street at a buddies house!
http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo193/BBCchris/1989%20Comanche%20MJ/DSC00910.jpg

-Chris

Well I still have to do some bumpers..... so, I guess I'm not 100% done.

[ZipperheadXJ00]

if they came out with that look in the US... i'd buy it, in the truck version. that's a good lookin rig!

[shiftyk]

that is by far the nicest comanche i have ever seen! Rig of the year award?!?

[camarors8992]

It just needs the newer mirrors and I think it'd be awesome.

[BonesBrosChris]

It just needs the newer mirrors and I think it'd be awesome.
Noted!
It does look better with the newer mirrors and power ones to boot!
http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo193/BBCchris/1989%20Comanche%20MJ/DSC00919.jpg

Props to the guys that scored the Rubicon Express Long Arm XJ Kit at the pick-n-pull! You dirty bastards!

-Chris

[xjpettit99]

here is some of the pics of the progress of my brother's(bigpettit) 2500 front end project we started it is coming together very good. The conversion isn't that hard compared to what I;m used to. We will acctualy be finishing up the front end this weekend until we build the new bumper. The hardest part is the head lights trying to figure out how everyone is doing it.
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd26/cpettit1/DSC00504.jpg
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd26/cpettit1/DSC00506.jpg
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd26/cpettit1/DSC00514.jpg

[JeepCherokeeGuy99]

has anyone else finished the swap yet? I'm wondering who else is finished. Chris did you get some bumpers on? oh and just an fyi, if anyone plans on putting HID's in your headlights, you will need to cut a 2" hole in both sides because the bulbs will hit into the metal.

[scott00tj]

http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo193/BBCchris/1989%20Comanche%20MJ/DSC00910.jpg



I think I'm in love! Looks amazing!

[CheekyMcgee]

That's definitely an awesome look! Makes me wish I had the cash.

[BonesBrosChris]

I sold the truck last month to a guy in Utah. I did toss on the bumpers before it left but he didn't like the look so I think he's going to change them. He took off the Goodyear MT's and put on all terrains as well as a canopy on the bed.

I do have some misc 2500 parts left if anyone is needing anything.
-Chris

[urban yan]

Damn, that was a nice truck.
So what are you driving now?

[JeepCherokeeGuy99]

I sold the truck last month to a guy in Utah. I did toss on the bumpers before it left but he didn't like the look so I think he's going to change them. He took off the Goodyear MT's and put on all terrains as well as a canopy on the bed.

I do have some misc 2500 parts left if anyone is needing anything.
-Chris

What do you have left chris?

[JeepCherokeeGuy99]

What did you do to lower the hood chris?

[JeepCherokeeGuy99]

nvm that last post. I re-read this thread and realized you already told me ha

[donut2598]

ive been waking up old posts all nigh. wow that comanche looks great! hey where is the 2500 conversion pic thread .

great job