Front End Noise after Front Locker Install... Stumped

I couldn't do it myself, so I had my mechanic put in a new front locker (stock D30, 3.55, put in an auburn ECTED). Replaced the carrier bearings, chipped the ring A LITTLE in the process, smoothed it out and things are fine. It made a little noise when I took it in, but it got much worse when things were done. So we replaced all the U-Joints, the two on the axle, and the three on the shaft. Still making noise. I could observe the noise at any speed as long as the front axle was being pushed. As soon as gas was applied in 4x4, the noise dissipated. Took it back to the mechanic, who beat his head against the wall trying to shim it better than he already had, until he put the shop hand in the truck and put it on the lift, and ran it in 4x, at which point it became obvious that the pinion shaft was wiggling coming out of the case.

When we started axle seals were more or less shot, the axles themselves had next to no lube, the pins in 4/5 of the U-Joints were powder, and the bearing for the pinion was worn extremely badly, and was dry.
I've done my best to list symptoms as near as I can, hopefully somebody can shed some light on this story...
Because right now I'm looking at replacing the driveshaft to get a new extender thingy (bolloxed if I know what they're called, the thingamajob that allows the driveshaft to extend if the suspension drops) and replacing the axle housing, putting in new seals/bearings and hoping that solves the problem.

Anybody with alternatives please speak up. Thanks!

I had a similar issue, it was the drive shaft slip yoke, rebuilt the entire axle from end to end and all it was was the shaft. But i had no locker. A locker like that should only make noise around turns when not engaged, or clicking noises. thats natural.

Not sure what you're talking about here:

CovenStine said:

...,at which point it became obvious that the pinion shaft was wiggling coming out of the case.

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Do you mean:
the drive shaft wobbles at the slip yoke(the part that moves in and out)
the pinion gear wobbles where it comes out of the axle housing(the part on the axle the drive shaft bolts to)
or the drive yoke in the transfer case wobbles(where the drive shaft connects to the transfer case)

CovenStine said:

...,the axles themselves had next to no lube,.... ...,the bearing for the pinion was worn extremely badly, and was dry.

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You said new carrier bearings were installed. Did your mechanic install new pinion bearings? If the housing was almost dry, and the pinion bearing was dry, Both pinion bearings need changed, and a new races installed.
If the jeep was run for any length of time with shot bearings, you might be hearing a "moaning" or a "grinding" caused by an abnormal wear pattern on the gear set. Even if it has new bearings and a good setup.

@tbburg--
-the pinion gear wobbles where it comes out of the axle AND the slip yolk wobbles to compensate, the drive yolk is fine. The wobble is subtle but it's there.
-It probaby ran for a while before I owned it dry, and the axle seals were sad, so probably pissed right out after I did maintenance on it when I bought it.
-the jeep MAY have been run for the 2000 miles I've owned it and then some with shot bearings, but it didn't sound it until the 10 miles ago when the diff work was done.
-did the pinion bearing [he only mentioned one, but now that you use the plural, it makes sense that there'd be two] he said it was pressed in from the inside of the case.

@xtrememt--
I'm rather afraid that might be the case, but wouldn't be surprised if that's just part of a compound issue I'm having. Slip Yolk! Of course! thanks for helping me with my dumb terminology

I'm starting to think I'll have to buy a new housing (HP instead of LP is all I can find in the area, especially empty) and a new gearset

Id always recommend doing an HP swap. But you should be able to get a new used front DS from a salvage yard for pretty cheap money. Quick swap and problem should be solved. I dont see any reason youd need a new housing though unless the one you have is damaged in any way.

If there is any play(side to side, back/forth, whatever) in the pinion where it comes out of the axle, something is seriously wrong with the gear setup.

The pinion bearings are preloaded to a turning torque value(12-24 in/lb I think) when the pinion nut is final torqued. With new bearings and a new crush sleeve, It takes like 400 ft/lbs to tighten it. Used bearings and crush sleeve, tighten to about 175 Ft/lb. There's NO play in the setup.

How well does your mechanic know axles? It's not really rocket science, but if you tighten a new crush sleeve down to the 175 Ft/lb spec,(only used when replacing pinion seals,etc.) It won't pre-load the pinion bearings. As big a pain in the ass as it is, the final steps in an axle rebuild are to take the whole damn thing apart, set the pinion pre-load(with the carrier removed),with a new crush sleeve, then install the carrier, then run a final check pattern. If this isn't done, it's not right.

@xtrememtb-- So you’d recommend doing an HP swap. I’d love to, if I can figure out what’s different. I’m assuming a different driveshaft, but that’s it. I really hope the shaft rotation isn’t different. I found one, complete rotor to rotor out of a 98 for 150, so I’m really hoping it all pans out.

--Can anyone confirm or deny that all that’s different is a ’98 shaft instead of a ’00 shaft?

@tbbug-- I’m starting to wonder if he replaced the races/cups when he did the bearings, but he said the pinion had a flat spot on the shaft, and made that seem abnormal. You wouldn’t happen to know if all that jazz about torque specs and whatnot would be in a Haynes manual, would you? I’d check myself, but mine’s in the truck... in the shop.

Thanks again everyone.

i always say replace all the bearings(carrier and pinion) when doing any kind of locker/gear installs. sounds like the pinion bearings are shot or were not installed correctly. the pinion should be tight and have no play.

CovenStine said:

@xtrememtb-- So you’d recommend doing an HP swap. I’d love to, if I can figure out what’s different. I’m assuming a different driveshaft, but that’s it. I really hope the shaft rotation isn’t different. I found one, complete rotor to rotor out of a 98 for 150, so I’m really hoping it all pans out.

--Can anyone confirm or deny that all that’s different is a ’98 shaft instead of a ’00 shaft?

@tbbug-- I’m starting to wonder if he replaced the races/cups when he did the bearings, but he said the pinion had a flat spot on the shaft, and made that seem abnormal. You wouldn’t happen to know if all that jazz about torque specs and whatnot would be in a Haynes manual, would you? I’d check myself, but mine’s in the truck... in the shop.

Thanks again everyone.

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The HP and LP driveshaft are the same.

CovenStine said:

--@tbbug-- I’m starting to wonder if he replaced the races/cups when he did the bearings, but he said the pinion had a flat spot on the shaft, and made that seem abnormal. You wouldn’t happen to know if all that jazz about torque specs and whatnot would be in a Haynes manual, would you? I’d check myself, but mine’s in the truck... in the shop.

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The torque specs I listed were from memory.(WARNING- don't trust my memory)The actual specs would be found in a Dana rebuild manual, or a Cry/jeep service manual. If you dredge around online, you can usually find it on the net for any axle you're working with.

If you can get a replacement axle for $150.00, I'd say do that instead. Just make sure your gear ratios are the same. You're probably going to have to re-build your current front axle again to straighten it out anyway, and you may need a new gear set.('Sounds like it from what you've posted) Rather then fool around with that again, I'd just slap the locker in the HP housing and run that.

If you go with the axle swap, don't mess with the pinion yoke on the replacement axle. As long as you're starting with a good setup to begin with(don't have to mess with the pinion bearings, seal, etc.), all you do when you change a carrier is re-set gear backlash.

Thank you all so much.
I'm going to buy the complete axle (ratio's match) and just do a swap for now, [thanks RCP for confirming that the shafts are the same] and have somebody rebuild the axle that I have now from stem to stern, keeping only the locker...and maybe the shafts and hubs, and swap back to the e-locker axle later.
Next time, I think I'm just going to buy a complete assembly from Solid or something, this has been nothing but a big old headache.
But thanks, I'd be shooting blind if not for y'all. Much obliged.

If you don't mind, I have one more question
Are the shafts used in the HP the same as the shafts from the LP?
That's it, TIA

Yes

Thanks!
Ran into a wrinkle, the track bar attaches to the opposite side on a RHD, but nothing some quality welding can't fix.
I should have mentioned that subtle detail at the get go.
Thanks again!