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suggestions for new radiator (upgrade?)

2001XJ

2001XJ

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Canton, MI
Searched but can't really find anything. I have a 2001 and the radiator has gone bad. Any suggestions on what to replace it with as far as upgrades, brands, or just a basic replacement and where to get one, etc? I have checked rockauto.com and they have one: PROLIANCE Part # 436020 {#1193} Heatbuster Extreme Service model for $170. Don't know much about it or if it's worth it or a good brand.

TIA
 
CSF 3 row from radiator barn.
 
alright, this may seem simple to guys but I am getting a little confused. Obviously, I want to upgrade to a better radiator since my old one is shot. I have looked at various one including ones mentioned above and I am seeing different specs like all aluminum vs. aluminum core, 1 1/4 tube vs 1 3/8 tubing, 1-3 core, etc.

Can someone tell me what to basically look for as far as spec so I know how to decide what woudl be better over another. The only thing I really know is I want to go to aluminum but I am not sure if it is necessary to be all aluminum or just the core (if it makes that much of a difference. Also, I am assuming the more rows you have the better cooling then again, it may depend on the size tubing used as well. I have found an aluminum 2 core so far:
http://www.genesisautoparts.com/all_aluminum_radiator/jeep/cherokee/2001.html

I do like the this one as well: http://www.alumrad.com/dblpass.html but it is only 1 row but the 1 3/8 tubing might make it comparable to a 2 core or whatever.....I have no idea
 
IslanderOffRoad said:
What does it cost?
Click to expand...

I got mine this past summer and I believe it was right around $200.00. Give them a call and they will give you the price, real nice people to deal with. As for real world experience. This past summer heading to the trail it was 105* out and we where climbing the sierra's from 500ft to around 6500ft and the engine temp never got above 210* and that is with 35" tires and only 4.10 gears. So it was definately working hard.
 
jeepme said:
http://www.alumrad.com/dblpass.html (bottom of the page) This has been the best radiator I have had in the Jeep. Cooling is wayyyy better than the CSF 3 row it replaced.
Click to expand...

Think I'll look into this, my CSF 3 row has been in the shop 3 times and it still develops a leak after about 2 months from the same area. Have to admit never had a overheating problem with the CSF, just can't seem to get sealed so it doesn't leak.
 
mtntech said:
Think I'll look into this, my CSF 3 row has been in the shop 3 times and it still develops a leak after about 2 months from the same area. Have to admit never had a overheating problem with the CSF, just can't seem to get sealed so it doesn't leak.
Click to expand...


Sounds to me like you got a lemon... and/or I think this one should've been swapped out for a new one by CSF or whomever you purchased it from.

Sorry to hear about the problems.
 
I replaced my CSF because the internal trans cooler portion sprung a leak. Trans fluid and engine coolant mixed, makes for a very un happy transmission:explosion As far as the plastic tanks, I dont believe its plastic, it seems to be some type of thick composit material. I havent had any problems with it at all.
 
Last edited:
Good to know! I might look into this if my CSF bites the dust....

no problems so far though....

Is it as "thick" (deep) as the CSF?
 
JNickel101 said:
Good to know! I might look into this if my CSF bites the dust....

no problems so far though....

Is it as "thick" (deep) as the CSF?
Click to expand...

No its a little thinner than the CSF 3 row
 
just to let anyone know what is researching or comes across this post I went with: http://www.genesisautoparts.com/all_aluminum_radiator/jeep/cherokee/2001.html for my 2001 due to several reasons:

1. it was cheap
2. it was ALL aluminum, the more guys I spoke with the more I noticed mentioned that the main benefit of ALL aluminum vs. aluminum core/plastioc tank is that they usually crimp the plastic tank to the aluminum radiator core so there is tendency to leak at those points and the orings, with ALL aluminum it is a non-issue.
3. it was dual core for the price even though there is a threshold in performance (see below)
4. I did look at the mcculloch radiator which was one hell of a radiator but it was $250 for ALL aluminum and for what I use and where I am located it was not justified.

Just a note, a talked with Mcculloch and they said that they have found that using a single core aluminum with the 1 3/8 tubing has good performance. The more rows you get into, the more it transfers heat to the back of the radiator and actually makes cooling harder.
 
jeepme said:
I replaced my CSF because the internal trans cooler portion sprung a leak. Trans fluid and engine coolant mixed, makes for a very un happy transmission:explosion As far as the plastic tanks, I dont believe its plastic, it seems to be some type of thick composit material. I havent had any problems with it at all.
Click to expand...

The tanks on the end are fiberglass reinforced polypropolene and are crimped to the aluminum core with an "0" ring style gasket. These do tend to have problems, but 90% of all radiators nowadays are made this way. All aluminum radiators cost quite a bit more to make, but if they don't leak orginally, they will hold up well. With the extra issues of sealing up an in-radiator tranny cooler, it seems to me that you would be better off with a big external cooler. That also leaves your radiator with less work to do.
 
I am running the PROLIANCE Part # 436020 {#1193} Heatbuster Extreme Service model in my 93XJ. It does some pretty hard wheelin and have never had any overheating issues.
Also have the same radiator in my 90XJ that my son drives. The 90 always ran hot since the day I brought it home new in 89.
After 300,000 miles I put a new motor in it and it ran extremely hot until I put the new radiator in. 322,000 miles now and it runs nice and cool.
 
I have a CSF 3 core and I do not like it. I will not go 3 core again. The small cooling tubes sitting one behind the other is a no-no for proper air flow. Add to that the fact that I have the AW4 and no mechanical fan, I need all the air flow I could get through that low volume/capacity radiator.

Sitting at idle or driving Miami rush hour on summer days with the AC on full is never a problem. The temperature remains below the 210* mark. The highway is a different story. At 80+ MPH the temperature rises continously until I reduce the speed to 70 +/- MPH then it will return to the more likable -210*. I am sure having the stacked plate transmission cooler in front of the radiator contributes to this.

Note well!! The cooling fans never run at speeds of 45 MPH and above,.... Well between 45 MPH and 75 MPH. The fans come on when the water in the cool side of the radiator reaches 185*.
 
winterbeater said:
With the extra issues of sealing up an in-radiator tranny cooler, it seems to me that you would be better off with a big external cooler. That also leaves your radiator with less work to do.
Click to expand...

it is a pretty general thought that even when running an external cooler it should still go through the rad so it can help the trans come up to operating temps when its cold outside.
 
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