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Renix coil wiring

BoringDave

BoringDave

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Boring
Could someone look under the hood at there renix motor and tell me where the plug (UNDER) the coil wire on the coil go's to. I state it as (UNDER) because I just got off the phone with the dealer ship and he said all they show for parts are the coil and the coil wire. I could not get into his head that in order for the coil to make spark it needs to have a 12v and a ground input somewhere.

Also if someone has a spare one of this harness I would like to buy it from them

Thanks: Dave
 
im assuming you mean because the renix coil has 2 ports on it? elaborate on you question and i will happily go out and check for you.
 
The coil sits in the ignition module. There is no harness that plugs into it directly other than the wire to the distrib.
 
Thanks for the move and thanks for the info!
It may have the wrong coil I am going out right now to check and take some pics.
 
I just had mine out on the bench. There are two parts to this setup, the coil and the ignition module. The coil is held down onto the ignition module by two screws. There is no actual wiring between the two and the coil clips into the module. Remove the screws and pull straight up and you'll see what I mean. The ignition module is held down with two bolts (13mm socket head, btw).

There are two wiring harness connectors that plug into the module. The rearmost connector is unused. There is also a spade connector on the coil that doesn't seem to get plugged into anything. The ignition module and coil were also used on some Volvos and other Renault vehicles.
 
lawsoncl said:
I just had mine out on the bench. There are two parts to this setup, the coil and the ignition module. The coil is held down onto the ignition module by two screws. There is no actual wiring between the two and the coil clips into the module. Remove the screws and pull straight up and you'll see what I mean. The ignition module is held down with two bolts (13mm socket head, btw).

There are two wiring harness connectors that plug into the module. The rearmost connector is unused. There is also a spade connector on the coil that doesn't seem to get plugged into anything. The ignition module and coil were also used on some Volvos and other Renault vehicles.
Click to expand...

thanks I see now! The guy I bought it from just set the coil on the ignition module. It's not bolted down at all. I took pics and setup an account on photo bucket. But it is way to late and I have way to many beers to get them posted.
 
At the time, when Fuel injection was just getting started, it was pretty decent. The drawback is that it does not have as much self-diagnosis capability, but on the flip side most of it can be checked out with a simple voltmeter. I don't really consider it any less or more reliable than modern OBDII systems.
 
89xj said:
hardly, i find it fairly simple and easy to work on.

why do you think its junk?
Click to expand...

I guess it's not the system it self but all the damn wire everywhere. I am unable to locate where my source voltage to the crank, map and cam sensors has gone to.

new parts installed by last owner that gave up:

starter
crank sensor
cam " "
coil pack

I have pulled the fire wall connector and checked connection
pulled the computer same thing
removed all the fuse links at the starter relay
made a new cable from the battery to the relay
by pass the fuel pump resistor

The tps has 5.54v at the a pin on the square plug but nothing at the 3 pin plug

What should I do next?:explosion:explosion:explosion
 
What year and engine, btw? I'm going to guess 1988 and assume its a 4.0l.

The square connector for the TPS is fed from the trans computer, which means you are getting voltage on the +12v ign feed going to the trans computer. That precludes a bad ign switch. The 3-pin TPS connector gets its supply voltage from the engine computer.

The MAP sensor gets its voltage directly from the engine computer as well at pin C14. Crank and cam sensors don't have supply voltage. They generate voltage spikes which get read by the computer.

Given the above, I would check that you have voltage to the computer on pins B7 and B8. You have checked the ground strap at the back of the head to the firewall right? When that goes bad, all kinds of wierd things happen.

What is the actually problem? Cranking but no start? Make sure you have a strong battery as the computer wants to see something like 300rpm before it tries to lite off. The ign module is also sensitive to low voltage and won't trigger if the voltage gets below 9.somthing volts. You have seen http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Engine/Basic_Sensors_Diagnostics.htm, right?
 
lawsoncl said:
What year and engine, btw? I'm going to guess 1988 and assume its a 4.0l.

The square connector for the TPS is fed from the trans computer, which means you are getting voltage on the +12v ign feed going to the trans computer. That precludes a bad ign switch. The 3-pin TPS connector gets its supply voltage from the engine computer.

The MAP sensor gets its voltage directly from the engine computer as well at pin C14. Crank and cam sensors don't have supply voltage. They generate voltage spikes which get read by the computer.

Given the above, I would check that you have voltage to the computer on pins B7 and B8. You have checked the ground strap at the back of the head to the firewall right? When that goes bad, all kinds of wierd things happen.

What is the actually problem? Cranking but no start? Make sure you have a strong battery as the computer wants to see something like 300rpm before it tries to lite off. The ign module is also sensitive to low voltage and won't trigger if the voltage gets below 9.somthing volts. You have seen http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Engine/Basic_Sensors_Diagnostics.htm, right?
Click to expand...

thanks for the info:
89 4.0l
no start no spark

I will check for power and grounds where you said.
I don't know why I was thinking magnetic pickup sensors would have source voltage:dunno:
 
Sounds just like me a week ago - had fuel, tach signal, but no spark. My problem fixed itself after cleaning up the battery connections, the connections between the coil and module, and getting a full charge back in the battery.

Sounds like you have a meter. The CPS sensor should read 125-275 ohms. You should also see somewhere around 0.5 voltage a/c on the CPS sensor when cranking the engine.

Have you checked if you're getting any voltage across the injectors when you crank the engine? Just set the meter on DC voltage and see if you get anything registering. You can also check for a tach signal on pin D1 of the smaller yellow diagnostic connector. That would indicate if the computer is telling the ign module to fire.
 
lawsoncl said:
Sounds just like me a week ago - had fuel, tach signal, but no spark. My problem fixed itself after cleaning up the battery connections, the connections between the coil and module, and getting a full charge back in the battery.

Sounds like you have a meter. The CPS sensor should read 125-275 ohms. You should also see somewhere around 0.5 voltage a/c on the CPS sensor when cranking the engine.

Have you checked if you're getting any voltage across the injectors when you crank the engine? Just set the meter on DC voltage and see if you get anything registering. You can also check for a tach signal on pin D1 of the smaller yellow diagnostic connector. That would indicate if the computer is telling the ign module to fire.
Click to expand...

I have not got back to it yet but the cps has 229 ohms
 
Well I checked the tps and map source power is only .003 and .064 at pins c14 and c15
I checked pins b7 and b8 and they have 12+v with key on.
I checked tps for ground good also map has good ground.
I checked for continuity from pins c14 and 15 they are good to the tps and map.
I did not check the ground strap at this time. But I did use a set of jumper cabled to ground the the block to the battery and the body all at one time

End result I think I need a new PCM

Anyone have a spare known good test unit I could rent or buy?
 
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