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Clunk in the front end...I searched.

Muddy Beast

Muddy Beast

NAXJA Forum User
Location
WA
Title says it all.

I'm getting a clunk in the front end when I slow down, accelerate, or take a sharp corner. I notice it most when I slow down from a high speed to a stop (somewhere between 40mph and stop it'll clunk). Sounds like a pop you can feel in the floor boards.

I originally thought my loose trackbar bracket bolts were it (RE HD trackbar and bracket) but even after tightening them I still get it. Then I thought it was the driveshaft because I was in 4wd full time (242 case) but I still get it now that I'm in 2wd again (snow went away).

It seems brake related to me, but is it possible it's caused by my mix matched shocks? (nitro and hydros up front)

~Scott

EDIT: '89 limited with 4" bastard lift, stock control arms (pretty bent up), RE HD trackbar, ZJ tierod, 242 case and ABS (bigger u-joints I believe).
 
Maybe control arm bushings?

Or different sized bolts for the control arms?

I'm currently using grade 8 1/2" bolts for the LCA's on mine and they are slightly less thick than the stock bolts, probably allows some play between the bolt and bushing collar.

Or maybe a loose brake caliper?
 
Try checking the torque on the control arm bolts & check to see if any of your bushings are ovaled out.
 
torque is good, but the bushings are in poor condition (i've flexed a lot)...but they've been in bad condition for a long time...seems odd they would clunk now.

~Scott
 
My 89 did the same thing, I swap out axle U-joints but that didn't help so I installed new sway bar bushings and the clunk went away.

Something to look at
 
sway bar...what's that? Seriously, who runs front sway bars on bastard pack leafs? haha.

I'm thinking the clunk is axle related...as far as u joints or seals, but why would it only clunk under braking, tight turns, and acceleration?

~Scott
 
Had the same issue w/ mine. Noticed as much as 1/4" of play in the control arms and the rubber was all ate up. Changed all control arm bushings to Daystar poly and no more clunk. Now I hear a slight clack when I turn tight, discovered my sway bar links just slightly touch the coils. This is w/ a Rusty's 8.5" Long Arm, Rocky Mtn. sway bar relocation bars and Nth Degree quick disconnects. Not perfect, but no lifted Jeep is ;)
 
Muddy Beast said:
sway bar...what's that? Seriously, who runs front sway bars on bastard pack leafs? haha.

I'm thinking the clunk is axle related...as far as u joints or seals, but why would it only clunk under braking, tight turns, and acceleration?

~Scott
Click to expand...
The people that don't want to die while driving down any type of highway that isn't perfectly straight
 
I personally never had any problems without any swaybars. I deleted my front and rear swaybars when I was still stock on soft springs. I did put my front back on with some JKS disconnects I bought for cheap for shits n' giggles :)
 
silver_s13 said:
The people that don't want to die while driving down any type of highway that isn't perfectly straight
Click to expand...

If you know how to drive, driving without swaybars shouldn't be a problem.

But anyhow...yeah my control arm bushings are shot, but not disfigured. The main problem I think is I've flex my LCAs enough that they've both bent about an inch inward (stock arms with 4" lift).

Looks like that may be the ticket though...

~Scott
 
silver_s13 said:
The people that don't want to die while driving down any type of highway that isn't perfectly straight
Click to expand...

:bs: I am lifted 7.5" and have never run swaybars!! Someone blowin smoke out the tailpipe!!
 
I have the same type clunk and have been thinking it is the LCAs. I think I will just get some JKS LCAs rather than replace the bushings.
 
Check your motor mounts too. It would let your engine move under all the conditions that you have mentioned. I went through the same thing and I swore it was my RE1600 bar until I was doing a small hillclimb hit something heard the clunk and saw my hood move. The only thing that it really screwed up is now I have a crack in my header
 
If you know your control arm bushings are shot, why not replace them? Braking and acceleration (with 4WD) put strong twisting forces through the bushings. They are part of the line of force from the tires to the body.
 
winterbeater said:
If you know your control arm bushings are shot, why not replace them? Braking and acceleration (with 4WD) put strong twisting forces through the bushings. They are part of the line of force from the tires to the body.
Click to expand...

I have a hard time wanting to waste money on my stock control arms, and I don't yet have enough money for aftermarket control arms.

My motor mounts are pretty shot too, managed to destroy my new alternator from a bolt being to close, and the motor jumping an inch over several times. I might look into that (since that needs to be replaced).

~Scott
 
Good point about the engine mounts.

Although if it IS the control arms and you don't want to buy new bushings or buy new adjustable arms or whatnot, what about arms from the junkyard with good bushings?
 
ColoradoRaptor said:
:bs: I am lifted 7.5" and have never run swaybars!! Someone blowin smoke out the tailpipe!!
Click to expand...

X2 on the sway bar. I'm running around 10" of lift and she drive nice with no sway bars at speed.

Check your track bar bolts, both on the axle and up on the unibody by the driver side wheel. They have a tendency to come loose and cause that noise.
 
Blaine B. said:
Good point about the engine mounts.

Although if it IS the control arms and you don't want to buy new bushings or buy new adjustable arms or whatnot, what about arms from the junkyard with good bushings?
Click to expand...

That's a thought...I suppose I'll have to confirm the control arms are the problem, and it that ends up being the case, I'll probably just fork out the money for some control arms...since I only plan on getting bigger as far as lifts go.

Thanks for all the help guys, I'll take a look at my funds and reconsider some replacements/upgrades. Sounds like engine mounts and control arms are my best bet. I'll get an alignment done before though, just incase.

~Scott
 
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