View Full Version : gas tank leak
muddshutter
September 21st, 2006, 17:29
So, i am finishing up the HEEP and i finaly get it out of the garage. I have been smelling a faint gas smell for weeks.
I drive 5 miles to get gas, get the high dollar gas for my maiden voyage with my stroker, and i get to 13.5 gallons.
I hear gas spilling over so i cut off the pump and go in and pay.
I come out and its still gushing out. Its coming from the area that is blocked off with the 6" dia plug that has the fuel lines going to it. I drive back to the shop and its still leaking.
Does anyone know part numbers on the seal(s), a write up on it? Is this a common problem, help?
I have an 88 MJ short bed, stroker.
philip_g
September 21st, 2006, 17:31
don't have the numbers but go to NAPA and ask for a fuel pump locking ring and the oring, it's about 3 bucks, the dealer wanted something like 50 or 60 when I checked and the napa part is thicker and better.
strange that it would leak without being disturbed. Mine elaked after a fuel pump install
jeepdude10000
September 21st, 2006, 19:04
remember to lube(grease or vasiline) when u put in the gasket(o-ring)
muddshutter
September 21st, 2006, 19:27
What does that do?
jeepdude10000
September 21st, 2006, 19:51
the lube is so u dont rip the oring when u pit it in, it goes under a lot of pressure when its installed and breaks easy.
muddshutter
September 22nd, 2006, 05:00
Thanks for the info. I thought i had reinstalled it correctly, but i will see when i crack her open. Besides using a screwdriver and a hammer, is there a tool that is best for the job?
philip_g
September 22nd, 2006, 06:18
use a brass tool to avoid sparking but a punch is fine.
You might just have the oring off center...
muddshutter
September 22nd, 2006, 06:21
I guess i'll just have to get under there and look and try it. I have a TON of height now so i can just sit under there and look.
philip_g
September 22nd, 2006, 06:43
like mentioned above just grease it, center it in the channel and retry, probably all you need, though I find the napa lock ring to be much better than the OE, my oe bent all to hell
Matthew Currie
September 22nd, 2006, 07:51
If the O-ring is fat, it can be hard to get all three ears of the lockring to go in. Make sure you didn't miss one when you reinstalled. The tabs or ears on the lockring have a slight bevel on them, and I've found it can help to file the bevel a little sharper. X2 on the grease. It makes the job much easier and prevents the O-ring from squirming out of shape under pressure. And do use brass or aluminum to drive the ring on, especially if you have a leak currently. A spark is not at all desirable here!
muddshutter
September 22nd, 2006, 07:58
Does the insurance company pay for stupidy?
Thanks for all the help.
Do i need both the lock ring and gasket?
muddshutter
September 22nd, 2006, 23:29
Thanks for all the help. I will tackle it tomorrow in the AM
Eagle
September 23rd, 2006, 09:40
Inspect carefully before taking it apart. A common problem on MJs is for the tubes to break loose where they go thriugh the metal plate. The plate can be correctely seated and sealed in the tank and gas still leaks out.
Various MJ owners have addressed it using epoxy or J-B Weld around the perimeter of the tubes at the flange plate.
muddshutter
September 23rd, 2006, 20:20
Gosh, i would never have known that. Thanks for the info. I will look abd see.
noah
XJ Beater
September 23rd, 2006, 22:19
my filler tube has leaked since i got the truck, replaced the tube-still leaks, said XXXX it, just fill until it dribbles and call it good, 3/4 tank every week
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