'92 ABS needs to go

I've recently purchased a '92 XJ Limited that had already began its build to include a 8.5" LA lift and 35" tires. 4.56 gears and OX lockers. The rear axle had been swapped w/ a Dana 44 from an '88 XJ. The previouse owner stated that the ABS light stays on due to no speed sensor in the rear and to prevent the brake light from coming on he unplugged the connection to the proportion valve below the master cylinder. Well the brakes SUCK to say the least and I need to correct this. From what I have gathered on this and other forums, is my set-up may be unique. It seems I have a dual diaphram booster but a small bore master cylinder that connects two lines to the top of the prop. valve, two lines connect from the bottom of the prop. valve to the abs controller and three lines leave the abs to the wheels.

What is the best way to change , upgrade, correct my brakes? Can I just remove the abs stuff and change to a non-abs master cylinder and prop. valve? will it work with the booster? or do I just need a new prop. valve w/ two inputs and three outputs?

my set-up looks exactly like the '94 w/ abs in this thread: http://naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=6618

I've also read threads that claim to use master cylinders from other vehicles etc. : http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=575345

I just eliminated the ABS on my 92, because I cut off the inner fender where the ABS controler mounted...

I used a new master from a '92 w/o ABS, a new booster because the master push rod is a different length, and a different portioning valve, because the stock one had too many holes and weird fittings...

I converted everything to inverted flare - some of the stock stuff is metric, some of the stock stuff is bubble flare...

I honestly think that I lost brake performance in this deal, but I had the brakes off a '76 f-150, and they worked great with the ABS stuff, but not as well with the OEM non-abs stuff...

all in all, I spent probably $400, and have suckier brake performance...:banghead:

I think a better option for you (with a d30) is the reid racing d30 outer knuckles that give you true high steer, and 1/2 ton front brakes.... Keeping the ABS stuff, and going to the larger calipers made a HUGE difference for me, and I'd imagine that it'd be the same for you...

also going to rear discs - I notced an improvement when I put the Ford 9 in the rear with its 12" drums, over my d35's 10" drums...

The ABS system isnt flawed in the '92, it actually works quite well (I never even pulled the fuses, I just dealt with the light being on all the time) and just needs some slightly larger brakes to deal with the 35's...

Thanks for the advise, I found a '00 WJ non-abs w/ under 50k miles at a local junkyard. For $200 he's pulling everything brake related off of it. The booster M/C & prop valve came out as one piece. He also gave me a prop valve from a non-abs ZJ w/ rear drums to keep it similar to my disc/drum set-up. I'll be going back for the knuckles, and calipers as well.

Did you keep drums in the rear and go a larger size or did you convert to disc?

As you mentioned, I read elswhere too that the '92 abs was a decent set-up. Mine just felt real mushy and not real responsive. I did notice a leak from the prop. valve line to the master cylinder. At 117k miles I'm looking to change everything just to be safe.

I heave rear drums, but they are much larger than the drums on your XJ44...

The reason I started looking into a better brake system was that the pedal was real soft even after bleeding the lines. I'd compress the pedal, it'd be mushy then hard and eventually the Jeep would slow down. In 4low it would only stop in nuetral! I could NEVER lock 'em up ...ever! I read many threads conversing the benefits of ditching ABS and this JP article on how "easy" it is to swap to WJ brakes: http://www.jpmagazine.com/techartic...0_cheap_jeep_brake_system_upgrades/index.html

So I searched more and found: http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/brakes/xj_wjbrakes03/booster/

That information led me to calling local auto parts stores to puchase new WJ coponents. To my disapointment it would cost around $550 and still be missing crucial fittings and nuts :doh:

My best bet was to call yunk yards, I found one locally that has a '00 WJ and for $200 he pulled all the parts needed

Removing the stock '92 ABS system took only ten minutes! Super easy!! The '00 WJ system was a perfect fit !!! Only needed to bend the lip at the fire wall up just a little and rebend the existing brake lines to the new prop. valve. Took maybe an hour, mostly deciding how to bend the lines.

At this point I was super stoked! Now comes bleeding the brakes. In my haste I forgot to bench bleed the master cylinder :twak:. That led to two hours of line bleeding, still getting air coming out. I realized my mistake and attempted to half azz bleed the master cylinder from the prop valve intake fittings. Re-bled the brakes again, three more times.

...I still have a soft brake pedal :tear: What do I do now?!?!? ...besides start drinking?

A soft pedal means air in the lines ...right? Please someone correct my ignorance!

On a positive note, my test drive revealled a steady pedal, instead of mushy to firm and barely stopping it's soft all the way through and stops eventually. Still can't lock 'em up, but feels more firm from a rolling start than before. I'll start the knuckle and caliper swap here reall soon as well, but that won't account for soft pedal, will it?

My buddy Sam Adams is calling, please let me know any and all ideas !!!