Hot Wire to Start

I suspect a neutral safety problem on my son's '89 XJ (AW4 Transmission, NP242 transfer case, 4.0L engine). I'd like to "bypass" the switch just to get it started so I can take to a friends shop where I have access to a lift to remove, clean, and reinstall the NSS. Doing the repair in the driveway is not an option with cold and lots of snow here in Montana!

Isn't there a way to trigger the starter by jumping terminals on the starter relay or ??? to effectively bypass the NSS for just this one start?

Any help will be very much appreciated! Thanks in advance.

I'd try a screwdriver from the pos to the signal terminal on the starter, dont ground it out though,my brother recently did this with a spoon and mad it glow. I've done this when my solenoid was acting up

I was hoping to be able to do it without getting under it...cuz of over a foot of snow on the ground. Anybody know how to jumper or ??? something on the starter relay?

OK....by searching high and low....I finally found an old post that said to jumper the green wire with the power wire on the starter relay. I tested on my jeep and it works. Now to see if son's jeep will start! I'll let you know.

OK...so I was able to "jump" the starter with a jumper wire at the starter relay. Jeep won't start. I've tested to see it has spark, and has fuel pressure on the rail. Where else should I look?

Previous owner said CKS (crank shaft position sensor) was failing...wouldn't start in cold weather. Should I replace this before moving forward?

Any other way to narrow down problem?

check for injector pulse with a noid tester, also was the spark strong?

I think there is a way to test the cps with a digital multimeter set on a/c connected to the cps and cranking the motor over, I'll look into it tommarow

OK, thanks. I'll looking into testing the fuel pulse. We didn't smell fuel when cranking...but rail had pressure. I was thinking if the CKS was bad, it wouldn't tell the injectors to fire.

There are many threads here on checking the resistance of the CPS. It varies with the years, but all are listed in several places. I think they just disconnect it and check resistance across the pins. Reading for 15 min. max. should get you your answers. I believe that you are correct in assuming that the injectors won't fire if the CPS is bad.

I'm pretty sure this is what you are after:

place an ohm meter between terminals a and b, on a warm engine restistance should be between 125 and 275 ohms, replace if out of range.