HELP!! Rustys off road 3" spring kit with stabilizer problem

Just finished installing the kit.
New shocks, steering stabilizer, full leaf packs, and coils.
The rear went in with ease.
Th front has a couple problems.

1. Had to disconnect the cross link from the drivers side frame to passenger side axle tube bracket in order to clear the new springs after disconnecting the control arms at the axle tube, this allowed the axle to drop low enough to clear the springs, we didnt use compressors. In order to get it back together we had to wench the axle towards the driver side to line the crosslink bolt holes to the bracket on the axle to get back together. Now the axle is about 2 inches too far to the drivers side.
Can i move the cross link mount hole two inches to the drivers side by drilling new holes in the bracket to bring the axle back or is there something we are missing?

2. The front sway bar mounts also had to be dropped in order to clear the new springs. When reconnecting them the short links that connect the main sway bar to the axle bump the springs at that link/connection. Can i just shim block the sway bar at the top frame mounts in order to clear the springs or is there something we are missing?

I will be calling Rustys in the morning to talk to their tech staff as they assured me that the kit would go in without any additional modifications or parts, as long as you stay with a 3" or less lift.

Thanks in advance for any help!

Cory

You can redrill the trac bar mounting hole, however its not recommended. Instead you should look into purchasing an adjustable trac bar, it will save you alot of headache and is a much stronger and safer option. As far as the sway bar goes, I would have thought the kit would come with longer swaybar end links. I don't think shimming the sway bar would be an option as the bushings would then probably just flop around and it would make for a squirly ride. Its not uncommon to completely remove the swaybar, I don't recommend it for street driving though.

hurley842002 said:

You can redrill the trac bar mounting hole, however its not recommended. Instead you should look into purchasing an adjustable trac bar, it will save you alot of headache and is a much stronger and safer option. As far as the sway bar goes, I would have thought the kit would come with longer swaybar end links. I don't think shimming the sway bar would be an option as the bushings would then probably just flop around and it would make for a squirly ride. Its not uncommon to completely remove the swaybar, I don't recommend it for street driving though.

Click to expand...

Stop!!!! Don't start drilling holes until you know what you are doing.

The bar you refer to is the track bar. Simply have someone sit in the driver's seat and turn the steering wheel until it lines up and will easily go into place. You may or may not be able to use the stock track bar with your lift. Once you have it connected simply measure where the axle sits under the rig and see how much it is uncentered. If it is alot you will either need a relocation bracket or an adjustable bar.

For the swaybar issues you have several options. You can get longer links, disconnects, drop the sway bar, or remove the swaybar all together. I DD my trail rig a short distance to and from work and ocassionally on the highway without a swaybar and have not had any problems---but can't make quick turns or abrupt manuvers.

You only need to redrill a hole 3/4" away from the original. The 3/4" taken away from the driver's side, plus the 3/4" added to the passenger side will give a total realized shift of 1.5", which is sufficient for every 3" kit I've ever installed.

The sway bar interference with the coils is pretty typical. Be sure that the drop spacers are orientated correctly and that you have the sway bar mounted as far towards the front of the rig as possible (the spacers typically have slotted mounting holes). You will be better served by removing the spacers and installing longer sway bar disconnects (JKS is what I would reccomend).

HTH

Yeah you need an adjustable trac. bar. I would buy the heavy duty one, they last !!!

I don't remember having a issue with the sway bar.. Rough country has a good set of disconnets.

Good Luck

Nick

Thanks.
I may just remove the sway bar to get the jeep back to Nebraska, about 275 miles from where i am at in MN now. Cant get through to Rustys now so im assuming they are closed for the holiday.

I could probably pick up some discos here locally as there are a couple offroad shops around that may have them.

For all you guys who have done this in your driveway KUDOS! We have a lift with all the air, power, and heat tools needed, and we had to use them all!


Cory

I've seen more than 1 Rusty's track bar break....I'd suggest going elsewhere for that item....

I'm guessing your swaybar links are hitting the coil springs b/c you're using stock control arms...?

Yes, stock control arms as i was told a three inch lift "shouldn't" require longer...
We are going to:
1. Remount/reenforce for the track bar bracket as a temp fix until i get a replacement.
2. Shim the front sway bar frame mounts to pull the links off the coils.
3. Hopefully get in for an alignment tonight or tomorrow morning after 1 and 2 are completed and should be good to go for the trip back to NE on sunday.

Thanks for all your help!

Cory

Got it in and back to Lincoln, Nebraska!

Ended up:
1. Fabbing brackets to drop the sway bar down 3" and forward about 4" so the links cleared the coils.
2. Dropped the jeep to the ground and centered the axle with the track bar and sway bar disconnected, marked and drilled new tracbar mount hole in the existing bracket, and welded up the original holes.
3. Adjusted the steering wheel back to center.
4. Adjusted Toe in/out true using gauge (old shop alignment tool...)
5. Road tested.

Havent gotten an alignment done yet but it is solid, drives straight, no uneven tire wear, no wobble, little vibration from a stop to about 35 (suspect u-joints), and easy to steer without being tossed around. 275 mile trip back to Lincoln was a smooth ride.

Thanks for all your help.

Cory