T case Qs

I've got 95 cherokee and i've been runing a rubicon 3.5 inch lift on for about a year now with no t case drop. Long story short the t case makes a growling noise so i was wondering if a late 90s straight drive wrangler 231 will bolt up to my aw4. One of the guys I wheel with has a good deal on the case listed above (150). I'm also going to be ordering a sye this week so my problem will be completely fixed. any answers would be much appreciated.

come on guys i need an anwser

Give people some more time to answer.

What do you mean by "straight drive" Wrangler?

The wrangler case will work if it is a 23 spline case, which means it was behind a 4.0L wrangler.

is a tc from a wrangler clocked different than an xj tc?

also, what is a straight drive wrangler

89xj said:

is a tc from a wrangler clocked different than an xj tc?

also, what is a straight drive wrangler

Click to expand...

the clocking is done via the adapter on the back of the transmission.

You may need to swap the input shaft(because of spline length not count).What is the donor trans?

Sorry about the confusion straight drive is 5 speed (ax15 I think) but not sure on what year or if its 4 or 6 cylinder. but if the input is diferent then i could just swap the input shaft from mine to the new one. Also when i order my sye i'll want to let rustys know that its a wrangler tc correct.

Nope,they are all the same(SYE kit),as for the input gear,yes,if its a later year as you described.

Thanks for all the info guys. One more Q is the planetary gear atached to the input shaft. I want to use the least amount of my tcase as posible becuase the tj case is low miles and in great shape. I was pretty suprised when the guy told me i could have it for 100 bucks from what i've seen on ebay thats a smoken deal

I was also wondering how the t case is bolted to the trans and if its a big deal to seperate the 2.

There are six studs (3/8") on the transfer case, they pass through holes in the transfer case adapter on the rear of the transmission. You'll need to drop the transmission mount (you can just unbolt the crossmember from the framerails and lower it with a floor jack) to access the top nuts.

You'll use a 9/16" wrench to get the nuts, and you'll probably want a "stubby" wrench for the top couple (not a lot of room, even when you drop the tailend of the transmission.) The "stubby" wrench is about four inches long, and you can get creative to get more leverage on the thing if you need to.

Make sure to disconnect the shifter linkage from the transmission and transfer case before you lower the crossmember, or you'll bind up and probably bend the thing and need to replace it.

The transfer case "clocking" issue (mentioned earlier) is handled by the transfer case adapter housing on the rear of the transmission - the locations of the studs on the case proper are identical.