• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

Best adjustable radiator fan controller?

mattbred

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Canada
What's the best way to control when your rad fans turn on? My Renix switch is junk - I tried two from the junkyard and even bought an aftermarket one and they won't turn the fans on until its way overheating. It's either something with my rad, or the way it was designed, but I'm not going to worry about it. What I want is an adjustable switch, preferrably one that could screw in to the later model thermostat housings.

So who makes the best, albiet cheap, fan controller/switch? Hell I'd even settle for something that simply measures in ohms, as I could then use the stock rad switch that 91+ use on the t-stat housing. I think they give off values in ohms, instead of an on/off switch right?

Edit: On that note, does anyone know the thread size for the later model thermostat housing?
 
are you running the switch/sending unit on the side of the radiator or in the thermo housing? doesnt the renix use the switch in the radiator?

i would look at jegs or summit for the adjustable switch.
 
The renix uses a switch on the radiator, but it's on the cold side of the rad. I'm goign to swap in a later model thermostat housing with the threaded hole. Apparently a corvette switch will screw in there and turns on at 215f and off at 195f. Perfect!
 
You have other problems. If you're overheating without the cold side of the radiator getting warm, you aren't pushing enough water. Backflush your cooling system and check your water pump.


Many of us wire the secondary fan to come on with the ignition, or put it on a toggle that comes on with the ignition. There is a relay for it on the drivers fender - follow the wires, its easy to figure out. Just supply key'd power to the smaller red wire on the relay.
 
You have other problems. If you're overheating without the cold side of the radiator getting warm, you aren't pushing enough water. Backflush your cooling system and check your water pump.


Many of us wire the secondary fan to come on with the ignition, or put it on a toggle that comes on with the ignition. There is a relay for it on the drivers fender - follow the wires, its easy to figure out. Just supply key'd power to the smaller red wire on the relay.

No, I don't have other problems. It flows just fine through the coolant sensor-hole in the rad. I just recently replaced the water pump and flushed all of my coolant out extremely well. It stays nice and cool with my taurus fan on all the time.
I bought a 3-way switch so I'm going to have it as "ON - OFF - AUTO". I'm trying to figure out the "auto" part to come on reliably.

Regarding the corvette switch I mentioned, apparently its a Borg Warner TFS19 and they don't make it anymore so it's impossible to come by. So I'm still on the lookout for an adjustable 3/8" temperature switch..
 
No, I don't have other problems. It flows just fine through the coolant sensor-hole in the rad. I just recently replaced the water pump and flushed all of my coolant out extremely well. It stays nice and cool with my taurus fan on all the time.
I bought a 3-way switch so I'm going to have it as "ON - OFF - AUTO". I'm trying to figure out the "auto" part to come on reliably.

That's why your car overheats, with three different switches, when others don't have the same problem? That would usually be considered a problem.. ;)
 
I may have found it
http://www.jegs.com/i/Derale/259/16749/10002/-1

An adjustable switch that threads into 3/8".

The thermostat housing is 3/8", right?


Edit: When did I mention overheating? I don't have the clutch fan, I ONLY have electric fans. The RENIX switch is supposed to come on either when A/C is turned on or when it starts to overheat - that's too late. Please, I don't want to get into this. I just want an adjustable switch that will screw into the later-style thermostat housing. The renix switches are all designed to come on too late I guess. When I plugged off my lower rad hose and unscrewed my coolant fan switch, and put a hose at the top of the rad, it flowed out of the threaded hole just fine.
 
Last edited:
i have a delta current control fk60 controlling the taurus fan in my 95 xj. it uses a sensor between the fins on the cool side of the rad. it is adjustable. its not the cheapest option out there, but i got mine nib preowned for cheap.
 
I'd rather have a screw-in type rather than a probe, for more accuracy.. Although at the rate its going I might just have to sttle for a probe.
 
I second Cal. You are having an over heating problem.

The Renix radiator switch is designed to close (turn the fan on) at 185* and off at 170*. I am using the Renix fan switch to run my fans for 3+ years now. It is extremly reliable and predictable. Maybe it is the switch that is the problem. There are two identical units. One is a switch and the other is a VR (Variable Resistor) My XJ is not a Renix. I had to modify the hose between the cold side of the radiator and the water pump so I could fit the switch.

I used that Derale switch 16749 when I first installed my fans (Der-16928) The switch failed. It is micro processor controlled with the word 'MICRO' emphasized. It cycled on and off so fast it burned the relays out pre-maturely. Within a week the switch also failed. Maybe it is just my luck. Anyway, the Renix switch has been working for several years.
 
How old is your radiator? That makes a difference, horizontal flow radiators tend to plug. Feel the core once it's warmed up, it should be the same temp as the tanks. I'll bet the bottom of it is cooler. Consider upgrading to an open system from a 91+.

As for an electronic fan controller, one word... SPAL. :)
 
Look, I have an entire thread about it:

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=949007&highlight=renix+fan*+switch

I don't know why, but no switch (I've tried two OEM ones from the junkyard, and two new aftermarket ones) will turn the fans on until it gets to near the red-zone. My rad cools the jeep down fine, and I have good flow to the switch. When it's overheating and I manually turn the electric fans on, the temps drop almost instantly. Whatever the case is, I'm not going to buy a new radiator until this one gives up the ghost. Besides, it'd be more futureproof/reliable to put the temperature sendor/switch on the hot side of the rad, where it reads the actual engine temperature.

What I want to do is completley disregard the RENIX lower cold side switch and install a switch on the 91+ thermostat housings that are either adjustable, or come on at 215* and off at 195* or 200* like the corvette switch, thats currently not available anymore..
 
Look, I have an entire thread about it:

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=949007&highlight=renix+fan*+switch

I don't know why, but no switch (I've tried two OEM ones from the junkyard, and two new aftermarket ones) will turn the fans on until it gets to near the red-zone. My rad cools the jeep down fine, and I have good flow to the switch. When it's overheating and I manually turn the electric fans on, the temps drop almost instantly. Whatever the case is, I'm not going to buy a new radiator until this one gives up the ghost. Besides, it'd be more futureproof/reliable to put the temperature sendor/switch on the hot side of the rad, where it reads the actual engine temperature.

What I want to do is completley disregard the RENIX lower cold side switch and install a switch on the 91+ thermostat housings that are either adjustable, or come on at 215* and off at 195* or 200* like the corvette switch, thats currently not available anymore..

are you sure the sending unit for the gauge is good. maybe the reading on the temp gauge is wrong.
 
Look, I have an entire thread about it:

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=949007&highlight=renix+fan*+switch

I don't know why, but no switch (I've tried two OEM ones from the junkyard, and two new aftermarket ones) will turn the fans on until it gets to near the red-zone. My rad cools the jeep down fine, and I have good flow to the switch. When it's overheating and I manually turn the electric fans on, the temps drop almost instantly. Whatever the case is, I'm not going to buy a new radiator until this one gives up the ghost. Besides, it'd be more futureproof/reliable to put the temperature sendor/switch on the hot side of the rad, where it reads the actual engine temperature.

What I want to do is completley disregard the RENIX lower cold side switch and install a switch on the 91+ thermostat housings that are either adjustable, or come on at 215* and off at 195* or 200* like the corvette switch, thats currently not available anymore..


Try this: http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch.asp?Ntt=fan+switch&N=700+115+400012&Ntk=KeywordSearch

Not exactly 215* but,.........

Look at the third and fifth selection.
 
Last edited:
Okay I got some part numbers.

All of these are for the 82 corvette temperature sensor that fits in the 91+ thermostat housing:

BWD TFS19
Niehoff TS25261
Napa Echlin FS107


The BWD and Niehoff parts are very hard to come by in my area, however the NAPA one should be fairly easy to find and it's the exact same part.

I just got the niehoff part in today and I'll let you all know how well it works.
 
I installed the housing and the Niehoff TS25261 and the thing won't switch even at the red area of my temperature gauge.

Has anyone used the Corvette switch before with good results? Maybe I got a faulty switch - or maybe the water isn't reaching it.
 
I believe I have a bad switch because when I unscrew it with a hot engine, I get tons of coolant spurting out of it. I'm going to try the NAPA one.
 
You may need to put a relay in your circuit.

I used Flex Rite double fan on my full size bronco instead of a fixed or clutch fan. When it tried to use the switch to control the fan directly it would either blow the switch or work for a short time and then blow the switch.

To fix I put a relay in and simply used the switch to trigger the relay, and had no problems from then on.

If I read your posts correctly you are using a non-OEM fan, and that may be why what works for some of the others is not working on your setup.

Good luck.

:eyes:
 
You may need to put a relay in your circuit.

I used Flex Rite double fan on my full size bronco instead of a fixed or clutch fan. When it tried to use the switch to control the fan directly it would either blow the switch or work for a short time and then blow the switch.

To fix I put a relay in and simply used the switch to trigger the relay, and had no problems from then on.

If I read your posts correctly you are using a non-OEM fan, and that may be why what works for some of the others is not working on your setup.

Good luck.

:eyes:


My Non-OEM fan is triggered by the relay from the OEM fan, and the switch I'm using triggers the OEM relay. No problems in the wiring, and I'm using an ohm-meter right on the switch itself to make sure.
 
Back
Top