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TNT Y-link = Owned UCA Bushings

MoparManiac

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Amherst, NH
So after 2-3 trail runs I noticed that my stock replacement UCA bushings got destroyed. I know this is because of the binding of the radius arm setup, and the fact that TNT does not use a flex joint on the upper arms.

So I did some research and narrowed it down to a couple options.

1. Become incredibly proficient at replacing stock UCA bushings...

2. Weld in a sleeve to both UCA mounts to accept stronger poly bushings.

3. Use rockkrawler joints. People have differing opinions on them.

4. Use these johnny joints from Currie http://www.currieenterprises.com/cestore/product.aspx?id=2889

On the johnny joints, they say it only works in the diff side mount as the pass side mount does not hold it in place (?) I guess the cast mount expands a bit as you press it in. I didn't understand it completely but whatever.

Anyone care to chime in with your fixes or ideas?
 
It would have to be #1,you cannot use hard joints in a radius arm set-up.
 
TNT uses a flex joint at the bellypan and rubber at the LCA at axle and UCA where it connects to the LCA.

Clayton uses johnny joints at the xmember and at the UCA where it connects to the LCA.

Why can't I use a johnny joint or rockkrawler joint on the axle end of the UCA?
 
TNT uses a flex joint at the bellypan and rubber at the LCA at axle and UCA where it connects to the LCA.

Clayton uses johnny joints at the xmember and at the UCA where it connects to the LCA.

Why can't I use a johnny joint or rockkrawler joint on the axle end of the UCA?

Technically you can, but it will make for a really shitty, harsh ride. The rubber bushing dampens vibrations and shock-loads, a Johnny joint will not.
 
Run WJ uca bushings at the axle.

They have a different internal sleeve design (better) and run a harder rubber that lasts longer.

You typically have to order them, most places don't stock them. They are however a direct fit replacement.
 
Run WJ uca bushings at the axle.

They have a different internal sleeve design (better) and run a harder rubber that lasts longer.

You typically have to order them, most places don't stock them. They are however a direct fit replacement.


I take it these use the same size bolt and are the same mounting width?

Colin, i think we might have to have a UCA bushing wrenchfest, i gotta change mine too and have been looking at the same options
 
I take it these use the same size bolt and are the same mounting width?

Colin, i think we might have to have a UCA bushing wrenchfest, i gotta change mine too and have been looking at the same options


They are dimensionally the same. The XJ UCA bushing uses a steel sleeve that is loose and has knurles (bumps) in it to 'snug' up to the bolt. Those wear down, cause a little play, and that play leads to excessive wear.

The WJ bushing uses a thicker sleeve that doesn't have that problem.
 
Run WJ uca bushings at the axle.

They have a different internal sleeve design (better) and run a harder rubber that lasts longer.

You typically have to order them, most places don't stock them. They are however a direct fit replacement.

Got a part number on that bushing? Cant seem to find it on parts america. I need to replace mine as well.
 
I've gotten them at Autozone and Napa. It usually takes some talking to get them to keep looking to find the part number, but they eventually do. Some of the books try and give you the xj/tj part #, which of course, you don't want.

I'll see if i can dig it up.
 
Just curious, but I've had my TNT kit for about a year, lots of trail rides and even more highway miles without even a sign of worn bushings. I wonder if you're doing something wrong with your links? Too tight maybe?
 
Just curious, but I've had my TNT kit for about a year, lots of trail rides and even more highway miles without even a sign of worn bushings. I wonder if you're doing something wrong with your links? Too tight maybe?

Well the first time I flexed it out after I re-did everything, I definitely got around 16" of travel before my drivers side brakeline stretched itself out. I stopped it there but that might have started the destroying of the bushings.

Other than that I don't know. I have it capped at 4" of uptravel and 8" of droop.

Jeff's getting the WJ bushings in for me at Crown and I'm going to try those and see if they hold up.
 
I had to pawn them off on somebody...might as well be the kid with a trust fund. Have you had any problems? Like I said, YMMV.

-----Matt-----

:laugh:

When we were putting them on, Eli said my UCA mount bushings were on there way out. I haven't checked them in almost a year so they are probably gone but it still drives fine so I'm not too worried yet.

-Alex
 
So after 2-3 trail runs I noticed that my stock replacement UCA bushings got destroyed. I know this is because of the binding of the radius arm setup, and the fact that TNT does not use a flex joint on the upper arms.

So I did some research and narrowed it down to a couple options.

1. Become incredibly proficient at replacing stock UCA bushings...

2. Weld in a sleeve to both UCA mounts to accept stronger poly bushings.

3. Use rockkrawler joints. People have differing opinions on them.

4. Use these johnny joints from Currie http://www.currieenterprises.com/cestore/product.aspx?id=2889

On the johnny joints, they say it only works in the diff side mount as the pass side mount does not hold it in place (?) I guess the cast mount expands a bit as you press it in. I didn't understand it completely but whatever.

Anyone care to chime in with your fixes or ideas?

I'm interested in this thread because I think my UCA bushings may be shot also, although I don't automatically blame the T&T radius arm - they are likely the original bushings and the axle is a '98, so they are over 10 yrs old with a lot of wheeling.

I'm curious about using Johnny Joints. I don't see why it wouldn't work. You can weld it in the passenger side mount can't you? I believe that is what you are supposed to do with most of the replacement UCA mounts anyway... And as far as ride is concerned, I don't think it will affect it that much. You still have the rubber (poly?) bushing on the LCA axle end.
 
I'm curious about using Johnny Joints. I don't see why it wouldn't work. You can weld it in the passenger side mount can't you? I believe that is what you are supposed to do with most of the replacement UCA mounts anyway... And as far as ride is concerned, I don't think it will affect it that much. You still have the rubber (poly?) bushing on the LCA axle end.

Eric, the problem is the binding that's going to come from suspension flex. The front axle is overly constrained from the four control arms (two upper, two lower). With rubber bushings at the axle, the rubber is able to deflect and take the stress. With hard joints, there is no deflection, but still stress.

Now, I run a hard joint at the lower control arm end of the upper and a poly bushing at the axle...but I only run one upper.
 
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