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Ballistic Fab steering?

J

jdbwrx

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Avon, CO
For those of you who have it, or are running a similar heim set ups, I have a few questions.

1) How is the steering feel? I have read about dead spots with the 1 ton Chevy TRE set ups due to roll (that you can "fix" with a poly washer), but didn't know if this was an issue with the heim set up. Never read anything about it so I'm assuming no.

2) What did you guys do for a steering stabilzier, if anything at all. I was thinking a Currie type universal adapter.

3) Is 7/8 overkill? Some people say yes, some people say no. Currently running 33's with potentially going up to 35's in the future, but no bigger than that. Will I kick myself down the road if I do the 3/4" now?

4) Ever have any interferance issues on the passenger side with the heim stack and the tire? I loks like that bolts is pretty long and with those two heims stacked on the knuckle I didn't know if space was tight.
 
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You won't have any dead spots with a heim setup. However if you do a heim setup, stay under the knuckle for the tie rod, and over the knuckle for the drag link. Lot less stress that way.

Like this:

passengerknuckle.jpg
 
Id have to agree (for once) with crazy jim on that idea, I wouldn't put both on top it would seem like a lot of stress on the knuckle, though not sure if I have heard of any cases where this did become a problem?
 
I wasn't planning on going over the knuckle with it. I was planning on just as the pic shows. Like I said, with all those pieces there it looks like that spacing by the tire is tight, so I was just curious if anyone had fitment issues.
 
Just a heads up, if you are planning on buying the kit without the welding already done, you will need to get the taps for the threaded inserts as well.
 
Also. Take it as you will, some argue that this type of steering loses flex. Since the drag link heims are already at least 50% flexed one way. Which would mean passenger side droop would be limited... again, that's according to some. Whether it's true or you'll notice it or not, I can't say.
 
im running the RK x factor with hiems, right now its stacked on top, not a real fan of it but wanted to try it. I havent had a problem with it... but its leverage on breaking the knuckle. gonna throw the connecting rod under and draglink over this weekend for piece of mind. the clearance is close but i had no issue. steering stabilizer, gonna have to build a bracket, least with the RK being bent out the way it is. I can see where the issue on the flex could be but if you get your draglink leveler/ish youd gain some back(8" drop pitman arm) Also, if you run hiems run the bolt down thru the knuckle not like the picture, not much of a failsafe should it come loose but it might be enough to get it stopped before you are upside down
 
-96JeepSpeed- said:
Are you talking about tube adapters? I really dont see anything esle i need for it, I bought with out welding.
Click to expand...
I believe he was. You'll probably want to chase the threads with a tap after welding them in.
 
There was just a thread on CO4x4 about welding threaded inserts. Weld 1/4 of it (circumference), flip and weld 1/4. Let it cool completely then. Finish welding the other two spots then. This is apparently the way to do it and not have to chase the threads.
 
-96JeepSpeed- said:
Are you talking about tube adapters? I really dont see anything esle i need for it, I bought with out welding.
Click to expand...

Yes I was. I purchased the same kit, except with TRE's instead, and I needed to get taps to chase the threads after welding so that I could get the TREs to thread more than part way into to tube adapters (or threaded inserts if you will).



It also suggest you chase the threads on their website as well.
Look right above the blue heading bar that says "Products" and it says it.
http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/Tube-Adapters_c_7.html
 
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I was just checking out the Ballistic steering the other day. I'm wondering if I had a tie rod from them that was perfectly straight from knuckle to knuckle on a D30, would it hit my Ruff Stuff diff cover when I turn the wheel to full lock?

Also, I drive my jeep mostly on the street, but do some decent offroading when I can. Would a heim setup be ok or should I definitely stick with the TRE's?
 
We'll find out if the tubing hits the diff soon! I ended up ordering this set up, and am working on the Wj knuckle conversion and getting the steering set up. I am putting on a Solid diff cover. According Nate at Ballistic, the tie rod clears both the diff and the track bar mount when mounted under the knuckle.

There seems to be some discussion if heims are legal or not for street use. There was a thread on it recently.
 
jdbwrx said:
We'll find out if the tubing hits the diff soon! I ended up ordering this set up, and am working on the Wj knuckle conversion and getting the steering set up. I am putting on a Solid diff cover. According Nate at Ballistic, the tie rod clears both the diff and the track bar mount when mounted under the knuckle.

There seems to be some discussion if heims are legal or not for street use. There was a thread on it recently.
Click to expand...

Did you mention the fact that you are running the WJ knuckles to him? The tie rod mounts closer to the axle on these, and I HAVE to run WJ TREs (they're bent) to clear my ruffstuff cover at full lock. There's no way I could run straight ends.
 
Either of you guys have pics of what your steering setup looks like? I like the look and functionality of the straight tie rod all the way from knuckle to knuckle, but obviously not if it will interfere with the cover at full lock. I wonder if they could make it longer and put a bend in each side sorta like the Rock Krawler setup?
 
MoparManiac said:
Did you mention the fact that you are running the WJ knuckles to him? The tie rod mounts closer to the axle on these, and I HAVE to run WJ TREs (they're bent) to clear my ruffstuff cover at full lock. There's no way I could run straight ends.
Click to expand...


No I didn't mention I was running the WJ knuckles. At the time I talked to him and ordered it, I wasn't planning on the knuckle swap. That kind of came into the equation after the fatc. My plan at the time was to do a Vanco brake upgrade, so I would be keeping the XJ knuckles. After I read more and more, it worked out to be less money out of pocket to do the Wj set up than the Vanco.

I laid the WJ knuckle on top of the XJ knuckle to see the differences the other night. I did notice that the WJ tie rod arms a little lower, but I didn't notice a difference in the lengths of them.

I plan to run the tire rod over the knuckle, so I think that eliminates the tie rod hitting the diff cover. Frank Z was running the WJ OTK set up and he switched from the bent WJ tie rod to a straight one. There was no mention of any diff cover interferance. He did mentioned the bent Wj tie rod was more of a pain to adjust the toe with. I'll guess I 'll have to wait and see.

I'll post up some pics soon. I am waiting on ball joints, so nothing is assembled right now.
 
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