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regearing my xj

yamahadrummer

NAXJA Forum User
Hi, this is my first time posting here, and I was told that you guys could help me...
I have a 2001 Cherokee sport with a 4" lift and 32" goodyear wrangler mt/r's. I have the stock gears in (3.55, i think) and, needless to say, it is a dog. I want to put new gears in it for more torque and better fuel mileage.
What gears should I put in it, and where do I find these gears?

Thanks in advance!
 
Hi, this is my first time posting here, and I was told that you guys could help me...
I have a 2001 Cherokee sport with a 4" lift and 32" goodyear wrangler mt/r's. I have the stock gears in (3.55, i think) and, needless to say, it is a dog. I want to put new gears in it for more torque and better fuel mileage.
What gears should I put in it, and where do I find these gears?

Thanks in advance!

You can search through all kinds of posts and everyone will have a different opinion (which you will noticed is based on looking ahead I.E.> weight added to vehicle, type of driving, bigger tires in the future, etc). I will tell you right now, GO WITH 4.56s. I was in the same boat as you are now (2001 w/32's)and I don't regret it one bit. I am so glad I did not go with 4.10s. First instinct is to be concerned with "overgearing" but honestly 4.56's give you back the feel of stock and a little more if all you have is a lifted vehicle (I have front and back rigidco bumpers, spare tire, roof rack, tools in the cargo area, etc so I am heavier). Look at it this way, if you are going to do it, or pay for the install, do it once (if you have the chyr 8.25 since 4.56 is the deepest you can go anyway) and be done with it. Nothing worse than wanting to go deeper and wasting time/money on 4.10s. You can find gears at performanceoffroadcenter.com and dc4wd.com (haven't heard from him in awhile so don't know if he is still in business).
 
my vote would be 4.10's if you're staying with 32", I am running 4.10's with 33's for the hiway manners and it is fairly good. Any 4wd store online will sell gears.
 
Go at least 4.56's. If you think you might ever go to 35's,you might want to go 4.88's. Nitro gear makes them now. I've been looking into the same thing over the last little while and I've decided I'll probably go with 4.56's because I highway commute to most of the wheelin spots I go to so I'd like to keep the revs on the freeway as low as possible.
 
true about 4.56's, I suppose had I gone with 4.56 I'd be running 35's by now and the extra torque it would provide would be handy
 
true about 4.56's, I suppose had I gone with 4.56 I'd be running 35's by now and the extra torque it would provide would be handy

No you would still be lacking,35's need 4.88's.4.56's for 33's and 4.10's for 32's!
 
Hi, this is my first time posting here, and I was told that you guys could help me...
Well, we've got answers, weather we can help or not is debatable. Just remember: We all own Jeeps, we've all sunk more money in them then we paid for them, and we're still spending more. We're probably insane:looney:
I have a 2001 Cherokee sport with a 4" lift and 32" goodyear wrangler mt/r's. I have the stock gears in (3.55, i think) and, needless to say, it is a dog.
Those off a Rubicon or are they on 15" rims? Tried a set of MT/Rs on my '00(stock take-offs from a 06 Rubicon). Not only was it a dog, but they were LOUD.
I want to put new gears in it for more torque and better fuel mileage. What gears should I put in it, and where do I find these gears?

A close friend of mine(18 year dealership mechanic, does jeep work on the side) has this advice: All the aftermarket gears he's installed howl at least a little at some speed. ONLY buy factory gearsets if you want a quiet axle. That means Dana gears in the front, and (probably for you)Chrysler in the rear. It seems the OEMs use a extra/final honing step in the machining process that results in a better mesh. Prepare to be SHOCKED at the price(specially the Chryco stuff). A couple days after he told me that, I saw the same advice on Randy's Ring&Pinion website. The other bad news(besides price)is the factory gearsets only go down to 4.10. If you want to gear any deeper, you have to go aftermarket.
Now for the good news: It probably won't matter to you.
If you are going to stick with the MT/Rs or a similar tire, any good gear set will be OK. No matter how much noise the gears make, the tires are going to be louder and mask the sound. You'll never notice the axle noise unless you change to an AT- or street tire.
As for ratios, Chrysler puts 4.10s in the jeeps with 32"s from the factory, and that will give about stock performance. If you are SURE you're never going to 33"/35"s, the 4.10s are OK. If you even think you might want bigger tires later, go to 4.56. I won't recommend the 4.88s for the stock front axle(my personal opinion) but you probably won't break it if you stay off the rocks.

You are also going to need a new dif. carrier for you front axle when you re-gear. If you want a front locker, now's the time:D
 
If you ever plan on going bigger, 33-35, go to 4.88's. If you are staying with 32's then go 4.10 if you drive mostly highway or 4.56 if you drive mostly in town.

I just got my Nitro 4.88's

P1010589.jpg
 
I'm going to be selling this exact set-up in a few weeks. (3-4 weeks)
-out of my daily driver 2000 xj

Front LP D30-- 100 miles on brand wheel bearing units, brake pads and rotors. Tera flex high-steer knuckle and steering links, new driver side knuckle, 20,000 miles on 4.56 gears & lockrite locker, factory axles (probably should be upgraded). Pumpkin's dry and so are the tubes. It hasn't been wheeled that hard, I live in South Jersey

Chrysler 8.25-- 100 miles on new drums, shoes, and wheel cylinders, 20,000 miles on 4.56 gears and Powertrax no-slip locker


I just bought Dana 60's front and back for it that I'm in the process of narrowing. I run 33's and I am making the jump to 37's. $800 firm+ship. Just bolt them in and your ready to go.
 
Well, we've got answers, weather we can help or not is debatable. Just remember: We all own Jeeps, we've all sunk more money in them then we paid for them, and we're still spending more. We're probably insane:looney: Those off a Rubicon or are they on 15" rims? Tried a set of MT/Rs on my '00(stock take-offs from a 06 Rubicon). Not only was it a dog, but they were LOUD.

A close friend of mine(18 year dealership mechanic, does jeep work on the side) has this advice: All the aftermarket gears he's installed howl at least a little at some speed. ONLY buy factory gearsets if you want a quiet axle. That means Dana gears in the front, and (probably for you)Chrysler in the rear. It seems the OEMs use a extra/final honing step in the machining process that results in a better mesh. Prepare to be SHOCKED at the price(specially the Chryco stuff). A couple days after he told me that, I saw the same advice on Randy's Ring&Pinion website. The other bad news(besides price)is the factory gearsets only go down to 4.10. If you want to gear any deeper, you have to go aftermarket.
Now for the good news: It probably won't matter to you.
If you are going to stick with the MT/Rs or a similar tire, any good gear set will be OK. No matter how much noise the gears make, the tires are going to be louder and mask the sound. You'll never notice the axle noise unless you change to an AT- or street tire.
As for ratios, Chrysler puts 4.10s in the jeeps with 32"s from the factory, and that will give about stock performance. If you are SURE you're never going to 33"/35"s, the 4.10s are OK. If you even think you might want bigger tires later, go to 4.56. I won't recommend the 4.88s for the stock front axle(my personal opinion) but you probably won't break it if you stay off the rocks.

You are also going to need a new dif. carrier for you front axle when you re-gear. If you want a front locker, now's the time:D


The Rubicon tires are a 31x10.50 and the trans and TCase gearing is different.

Do you have a LP30(guessing since its a 00)? Id only run 33s if I was going to wheel it.

I'm going with 4:10s and Ill go up to 33s eventually. Im on 32x10.50s now and I know my XJs not a sports car and I actually still like the power. But 4:10s wont hurt my feelings LOL.

Also, my buddy just told me he compared a 4:10 carrier to a 3:55 carrier and they were exactly the same. Of cousre it seems everyone replaces it to but IDK if its no different.
 
I'm going to be selling this exact set-up in a few weeks. (3-4 weeks)
-out of my daily driver 2000 xj

Front LP D30-- 100 miles on brand wheel bearing units, brake pads and rotors. Tera flex high-steer knuckle and steering links, new driver side knuckle, 20,000 miles on 4.56 gears & lockrite locker, factory axles (probably should be upgraded). Pumpkin's dry and so are the tubes. It hasn't been wheeled that hard, I live in South Jersey

Chrysler 8.25-- 100 miles on new drums, shoes, and wheel cylinders, 20,000 miles on 4.56 gears and Powertrax no-slip locker


I just bought Dana 60's front and back for it that I'm in the process of narrowing. I run 33's and I am making the jump to 37's. $800 firm+ship. Just bolt them in and your ready to go.

how much would you be looking to get for these?
and thanks for the all the help guys!

Those off a Rubicon or are they on 15" rims? Tried a set of MT/Rs on my '00(stock take-offs from a 06 Rubicon). Not only was it a dog, but they were LOUD.

They are mounted on rubicon rims. I dont think they are terribly loud...
here is a picture of my xj
n544640497_1861367_5265.jpg


and no, i am not planning on going any bigger on my tires. 32's is just fine for what I use my xj for.
 
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I'm going to be selling this exact set-up in a few weeks. (3-4 weeks)
-out of my daily driver 2000 xj

Front LP D30-- 100 miles on brand wheel bearing units, brake pads and rotors. Tera flex high-steer knuckle and steering links, new driver side knuckle, 20,000 miles on 4.56 gears & lockrite locker, factory axles (probably should be upgraded). Pumpkin's dry and so are the tubes. It hasn't been wheeled that hard, I live in South Jersey

Chrysler 8.25-- 100 miles on new drums, shoes, and wheel cylinders, 20,000 miles on 4.56 gears and Powertrax no-slip locker


I just bought Dana 60's front and back for it that I'm in the process of narrowing. I run 33's and I am making the jump to 37's. $800 firm+ship. Just bolt them in and your ready to go.

that is nearly the exact setup I was looking to move to (what you are selling). How did it wheel for you?
 
It wheels great! With 33"s, 9"s of lift, I made one run through Paragon... No problem on any of the "Black" trails. The gearing feels slighty lower than a factory xj feels. If I baby it, I'm getting 16-18mpg. I'm able to tow a 6x10 enclosed trailer loaded with a two streetbike with no issues.

***On wet pavement, you can whip donuts like a 5.0 Mustang... Which is probably why my tires are wasted. LOL
 
The Rubicon tires are a 31x10.50 and the trans and TCase gearing is different.
Disclaimer: Not trying to bust balls:
The factory Rubicon tire size(metric) works out to about a 32x11-16. What they actually measure out too is a different can of worms. All the standard transmissions offered in the later jeeps have a 4.0:1 first gear. All the automatics are around 3:1. The Rubicon's "Rock-Track" transfer case does have a 4-1 low range, but ALL versions of every transfer case have a 1-1 high range.
Also, my buddy just told me he compared a 4:10 carrier to a 3:55 carrier and they were exactly the same. Of course it seems everyone replaces it to but IDK if its no different.
I did say the FRONT carrier. The Chry 8.25 rear axle has a carrier break at 2.45/2.54up. All the jeep/truck/van axles have the upper range carrier. The Dana 30(front axle) carrier break is 3.54/55down/3.73 up. If he has 3.55 gears, he needs a new front carrier to go any lower.
They are mounted on rubicon rims. I don't think they are terribly loud...
Then you are never going to notice a little gear noise. Don't bother with OEM gears.
here is a picture of my xjand no, i am not planning on going any bigger on my tires. 32's is just fine for what I use my xj for.
Nice looking rig. Your call, but I'd say if you do more then 50% of your miles off road, go with the 4.56s. If it's mostly a daily driver, get the 4.10s.
 
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so let me ge this straight.
i have a 93 xj and just ordered 4:88's with 2 master install kits and 1 front carrier for the lower gear ratio..
do i need a carrier for the rear diff as well?
i was under the impression that i wasnt right? but now i am confused!
 
so let me ge this straight.
i have a 93 xj and just ordered 4:88's with 2 master install kits and 1 front carrier for the lower gear ratio..
do i need a carrier for the rear diff as well?
i was under the impression that i wasnt right? but now i am confused!
Depends what the rear axle is.
If it's a D35, yes you'll need a new carrier.
If it's a C8.25, then no you won't need a new carrier.

Jim www.yuccaman.com
 
Disclaimer: Not trying to bust balls:
The factory Rubicon tire size(metric) works out to about a 32x11-16. What they actually measure out too is a different can of worms.

I have 265/75/16s. Those are 32.10.50s.

Rubi tires are 245/75/16 which converts to about a 31x10s.

Not a 32...
 
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