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Nasty oil leak at the filter adapter

IslanderOffRoad

IslanderOffRoad

NAXJA Forum User
NAXJA Member
Location
Houston, Tx
Fired my Jeep up on Saturday after fixing a power steering leak at the cooler to make sure it was no longer leaking, and got a good sized puddle of oil under the Jeep pretty quick. Shut it off, looked around, looks like the o-rings at the filter adapter are leaking.

I've heard some say this is easy, others say it was hard. Sure looked like there wasn't much room to work.

Called a shop I've used for a few things before, and they said $100 to do it.

Should I just pay them and save myself the hassle?
 
nomorecash said:
not hard, do it yourself
Click to expand...

do you have any specifics on how to do the job?

I've read yuccaman's writeup and while it was good the pics were not the greatest to see what had to be done; understandable given the access issues in that part of the engine bay.
 
IslanderOffRoad said:
do you have any specifics on how to do the job?

I've read yuccaman's writeup and while it was good the pics were not the greatest to see what had to be done; understandable given the access issues in that part of the engine bay.
Click to expand...

If it's a torx GL, makes it very hard b/c of the "frame" and the size of a ratchet. If it's a regular bolt, it's cake money, take about a half hour from removal, cleaning, reinstall. It can be difficult to get a good angle.
 
Like said above, it depends on what fitting is on the bolt. I have seen both hex head (Renix) and Torx (pre-97 HO). I have also heard of some with an allen head. The Renix ones are easy, but if you have the Torx bolt I think $100 is worth not doing it yourself.
I have done one with the Torx before and it took several hours. I also currently have one that leaks badly and the po stripped the fitting and I cannot change it. It looks like my only option is to pull the engine and drill the bolt....but thats alot of work for something that will just develope another leak somewhere else.
 
Jess said:
Like said above, it depends on what fitting is on the bolt. I have seen both hex head (Renix) and Torx (pre-97 HO). I have also heard of some with an allen head. The Renix ones are easy, but if you have the Torx bolt I think $100 is worth not doing it yourself.
I have done one with the Torx before and it took several hours. I also currently have one that leaks badly and the po stripped the fitting and I cannot change it. It looks like my only option is to pull the engine and drill the bolt....but thats alot of work for something that will just develope another leak somewhere else.
Click to expand...

is there enough room to get a pipe wrench on the head of the stripped bolt?


islander,
i only have experience on my 89 and it was an easy job.
 
Considering the amount of other work I have to do, the lack of time of the holidays and the uncertainty of how long this could take me dropping the Jeep off at the mechanic for $100 seems like the best option at the moment.

Thanks for the opinions.
 
mine is a 87 so it took about 30 min when I replaced the motor mounts, o do check them when you have it off. the adapter must be off to change mounts
 
nomorecash said:
mine is a 87 so it took about 30 min when I replaced the motor mounts, o do check them when you have it off. the adapter must be off to change mounts
Click to expand...

Not on a 94. I've done the motor mounts.
 
94 I'm pretty positive is going to be a Torx bit, and it's a T-60...so it's fairly large. You'll have about enough room to get the bit in there, but no room to get a ratchet behind it.

When I did mine, I ended up loosening the motor mounts and carefully raising the motor up a little bit to gain some more room. I've seen a few people take a wrench they didn't care about, and weld it to the Torx bit, thus making their own tool....pretty cool idea and one that i'll be doing when it comes time to do it again.

One more thing, I followed the advice on here and went to the dealer for the o-rings (yes, plural). Make sure you get the o-ring set as there are two smaller ones that you'll want to replace while you're in there. The dealer offers just the main o-ring separate from the o-ring set (ask me how I know!). Cost me about $4 for the set.
 
IslanderOffRoad said:
Considering the amount of other work I have to do, the lack of time of the holidays and the uncertainty of how long this could take me dropping the Jeep off at the mechanic for $100 seems like the best option at the moment.

Thanks for the opinions.
Click to expand...

John, pay me $100 and I'll do it for you. :D I have a special torx setup that I used on my 98. On the 92 MJ, it was a hex head and was only a half hour job.
 
johnnyc said:
John, pay me $100 and I'll do it for you. :D I have a special torx setup that I used on my 98. On the 92 MJ, it was a hex head and was only a half hour job.
Click to expand...

Can you drive up this way and do it? :D
 
I wouldn't be able to get up that way until Saturday. I could remove that pinion nut for you too.

You either need to buy some tools or move closer to the rest of us. :D
 
johnnyc said:
I wouldn't be able to get up that way until Saturday. I could remove that pinion nut for you too.

You either need to buy some tools or move closer to the rest of us. :D
Click to expand...

So true!

If I were in town Saturday I'd take you up on it. Thanks though.
 
UNCC_99XJ said:
94 I'm pretty positive is going to be a Torx bit, and it's a T-60...so it's fairly large. You'll have about enough room to get the bit in there, but no room to get a ratchet behind it.
Click to expand...

I took a T-60 torx bit, and used a grinder to cut about 1/4 inch off the socket end, then grinded down the sides so I could get a open ended wrench on it.

Went pretty quickly after that.
 
Not all tools were created equal, and the 'basin wrench' one of my favorites. Meant for loosening/tightening sink(basin) supply lines when the sink is already installed in/on the counter.
http://www.acehardware.com/product/...&cp=&kw=basin+wrench&origkw=basin+wrench&sr=1The jaws operate similarly to a pipe wrench, but the head also pivots about 90* to either side on a pin thru the handle (red arrow). That part moves very freely, too much so for my liking, so I have gunked up the joint with a little silicone to keep it from moving about so much when trying to get into a tight space. At around $18 vs. $100, it's worth a try.
basin_wrench.jpg

If you remove the pass. side wheel, it's a little easier to get at from underneath. It'd def. make things easier to have a helper to hold the torx bit in place (just a finger on the end), and maybe guide the wrench jaw, from the top.
 
ocean_jet said:
I took a T-60 torx bit, and used a grinder to cut about 1/4 inch off the socket end, then grinded down the sides so I could get a open ended wrench on it.

Went pretty quickly after that.
Click to expand...

That works too....but takes the fun factor (welding) out of it! :D
 
I just change the o-rings in my 99 the other day. It was like 4 something for the o-ring kit from the dealer and 7ish for 60 torx bit from autozone. I found a 12mm wrench fit over the 60 torx bit pretty good and then I put the torx in the bolt and a pipe on the 12mm wrench and broke it free, just make sure you take the torx bit out of the bolt before you pinch it between the bolt and frame. Then I just turned the adapter back and forth while I held the bolt at the right time to get it rest of the way out. It took about 20-30 minutes, wasn't to bad would be easier if you have a ratching 12mm wrench.

Taylor
 
Blaine B. said:
Any chance of this bolt breaking off in the block?
Click to expand...
Yeah, but there's always a 'chance' of breaking any given bolt. This one's not like rear shock bolts, which break all the time though.
[tangent]I just changed all 4 shocks without breaking or stripping a single bolt or nut :D; even a blind squirrel finds a nut now and then[/tangent]
 
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