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battery cable specs for renix

dellstopjeep

NAXJA Forum User
Location
KUNA, ID
I am making some new battery cables for my 89 cherokee with the 4.0
Does anyone have the lengths for each cable and the ground strap handy and each stud size so I can grab proper lengths of wire and lugs from the electrical distributor I work at?
thanks
 
Well, there are two ways to go about it:

1) Click the link in my sig, and you can find measurements that you'll need (for every cable that came OEM and a couple of extras.)

2) Click the link in my sig, order the cables you need, and save yourself the headache (getting good crimps is a pain without proper tooling, once you get bigger than 10 or 8AWG...)
 
Well, there are two ways to go about it:

1) Click the link in my sig, and you can find measurements that you'll need (for every cable that came OEM and a couple of extras.)

2) Click the link in my sig, order the cables you need, and save yourself the headache (getting good crimps is a pain without proper tooling, once you get bigger than 10 or 8AWG...)

x2

I run Jon's cables in both my XJ and my roomates MJ and they are awesome. Beefy and well worth the money.

FWIW: I had Jon make cables for our Auto-X RX-7 and we notice a voltage increase of 1.5-2V on our Microtech after we changed our cables from out stock setup.

I would highly recommend his products.
 
x2

I run Jon's cables in both my XJ and my roomates MJ and they are awesome. Beefy and well worth the money.

FWIW: I had Jon make cables for our Auto-X RX-7 and we notice a voltage increase of 1.5-2V on our Microtech after we changed our cables from out stock setup.

I would highly recommend his products.

Thank you - it's that sort of encouragement that keeps me going!

You may have told me this already, but what were the "before and after" numbers on your RX? I find the 1.5-2.0VDC gain to be signficant - I just tend to prefer 'absolute' numbers over 'relative'.
 
Thank you - it's that sort of encouragement that keeps me going!

You may have told me this already, but what were the "before and after" numbers on your RX? I find the 1.5-2.0VDC gain to be signficant - I just tend to prefer 'absolute' numbers over 'relative'.

Shooting you a PM.
 
Well, there are two ways to go about it:

1) Click the link in my sig, and you can find measurements that you'll need (for every cable that came OEM and a couple of extras.)

2) Click the link in my sig, order the cables you need, and save yourself the headache (getting good crimps is a pain without proper tooling, once you get bigger than 10 or 8AWG...)

you will consider punching me in the face when I say this but isnt that what vice grips are for???

seems to get a good crimp on the ones I started so far. BUt Im about to ditch this project after the ground strap I replaced with 2 awg as I have no access to welding cable at work we quit selling it and the scrap I am picking up is not flexible at all. Especially in 1/0.
 
Hey 5-90, do you think there is a noticeable difference between 1/0 and 2 awg if I just stuck with 2 awg as its more flexible and I could do my rig no problem with this as I have a ton of it.
 
2AWG is just fine - I happened to select 1AWG as a compromise between "pure overkill" and "handling ability" and "shipping weight." 2AWG should give you a working ampacity of 250-275A in most lengths you'll see underhood (< five feet,) and I've not seen alternators that big that we can use yet - MG tops out around 200-220A.

And no, that's not what vice grips are for. They're not going to give you the rock solid mechanical connection you want for high-current electrical contacts, and that means that the life of the connection will be rather shorter (underhood connections are most susceptible to vibration - a proper "cirmp" connection is actually a "swage" connection, where two bits of metal are cold-formed into each other. It's a bit more than just a "squish," and that's why crimp dies are shaped the way they are. I've no trouble with people making their own cables and such - but don't half-ass it, y'know? Most people don't like doing jobs twice or buying parts twice, and I don't like selling parts twice - which is why I make them the way I do.)

Welding cable has finer strands than typical stranded heavy-cable, and what you're using sounds like "battery" cable instead. Heavy battery cable runs strands about four times the gage size of welding cable, which makes it much more stiff (and actually less tolerant of handling and flexion stress.) And, the insulation is different - I find that welding cable is rather tougher and more resistant to chemicals, petroleum, and heat. (There are even better grades of cable out there, but they cost three or four times as much. Compromise, again.)
 
I have a burndy crimping tool from work that does a great job up to 1 awg unfortunatly it stops there. MIght just ditch this wire and order some welding cable from work.
 
well I sourced some 2 awg welding cable and was able to do the cables minus the alternator to negative terminal cable as I wasnt sure where you attach cable at alternator. The good news I am looking for that v8 zj alternator at the wrecking yards to swap in when I get lucky. anyways here is a picture of the final product, I will probably by better connectors later but for now these will work. Even had some extra time tonight for some rear homemade bpe's. Now what budget mode to do next, maybe a fitchbox.......maybe.
P1010272.jpg


P1010273.jpg
 
You've got a RENIX - the ZJ/WJ/Durango upgrade will not work unless you install an external regulator. RENIX uses a Delco CS-130 internally-regulated alternator, and 1991-up Jeep anything uses a Nippondenso externally-regulated alternator. You can add an external regulator (see the San Jose Generator pages on my site - Rod's got Prestolite marine external regulators, and I've put instructions up on the site - essentially a copy of the instructions that come in the box with the thing...) but you'll find it easier to just get an upwound CS-130 for yourself (again, you can talk to Rod about that. That's where I've gotten all of mine.)

But, the ND won't be a driect swap electrically, and I don't think it will be a direct swap physically (I believe the ND has a larger frame size, but I won't swear to it in court at the moment.) Forewarned is forearmed...
 
haha thanks for the heads up before I just dived in, 5-90 not to be gay but you have helped me through every damn project and I appreciate it. I went over the alternator again and in the bottom corner there was my thread for a ground! So I added a ground and can now sleep tonight.
 
haha thanks for the heads up before I just dived in, 5-90 not to be gay but you have helped me through every damn project and I appreciate it. I went over the alternator again and in the bottom corner there was my thread for a ground! So I added a ground and can now sleep tonight.

You're welcome, and no worries. I was going to tell you to take a look at the back of the thing anyhow - you'll know it when you see it.
 
How many amps do the "up wound" alternators put out?

Rod will do a 140A CS-130 for us for a dollar an amp - right about twice OEM output (76-80A, normally. So, not quite twice.)

And that means that he puts the thing together, and tests it on his bench - making sure you get a minimum of 13.0VDC@140A. You might get more - his parts seem to be funny that way.

You can also go with a 200A Mean Green - but those are spendy (I think they're more than a dollar an amp.) There's another outfit out there - I think they're called Nation - but I don't recall as they handle our particular CS-130 case. If they don't (but still handle CS-130 units,) you can probably send yours in as a core - the internals are the same, just the mounting and clocking changes (and even the clocking can be changed on the bench.)
 
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