• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

RMS =BROKEN BLOCK!!!

C

ceb0217

NAXJA Forum User
Location
oregon,corvallis
I tried to change the RMS and broke the block ( I tried it on a couple of wrecking yard motors and it was easy) is there a way to get the stuck piece out and is my block still useable. It is not a daily driver but does get used 1-2 times a week. the broken part is on a dime and it is the piece closest to the fly wheel but still aginst the seal
 
Last edited:
i had to loosen all the main bearing caps to get the seal out. retorque to 80lbs

what method did you use to get the seal out?

did you really go to the JY and try on other motors?
 
How the hell did you do that? You're supposed to tap it out with a small punch, not pry it out!

I would say run it. It appears that its not causing the seal to fall out or move around too much. If it leaks then go from there. YOu might have to take off the trans and try to JB weld it into place later on if it still leaks. I can't see replacing the engine for that little tiny piece of cast iron
 
I work at a wrecking yard and I tried a brass punch made of brasing rod bent it then shortaned it and I did not pry in it but I did hit the rod with a bigger hammer. the wrecking yard is how I got my xj built I got the jeep from a buddy of mine for $200 and now have less than $700 in it with a 5-6 in lift and 2 sets of wheels and tires its a 90 auto trans and I got rid of the full time transfer case cuse I broke it the frist time out.my buddys dad (a certified toyota mec) said it was a valve cover gasket that was leaking
 
I doubt you did any real harm to the block. Drop the crank a bit, and use a small drift to loosen the top seal. You may need to be persistant, but not abusive. The seal may be tacked in with an adhesive to make it easier to handle on the assembly line.
 
Don't worry about the missing chunk. It should not cause any leakage.

The crappy mechanic that did mine broke a much bigger chunk out just aft of the seal as well. On top of that he apparently gave up trying to get the upper half out and only replaced the bottom half. He also never snugged the oil pan bolts and most were loose and ready to fall out and 4 were missing. It sealed right up after I did it correctly.
 
ok thanks for the help and advice tomorrow evening ill be pulling the TQ and the trans if I have to. I took all the main caps loose and couldnt get crank to drop. I am a little worried that Ill hurt the front seal if the crank drops to much. It seems like all the seals are hard as iron in this motor.Not to hijack my own post but the head gasket is also leaking oil on the pass side. and its not the dist or the filter adapter,or valve cover can I just retorque the head ??? has any one tried???
 
Pulling the tranny is definitely a lot of extra work. Have you tried shooting some pb-blaster, wd-40 or carb cleaner up around the seal? That might help get it unglued. I would also try tapping the other end instead of the end that looks a little mushed now. The good news is that once it breaks loose it'll come right out. You won't have to fight it the whole way.

I've got a leak on the side that I think is the head gasket weeping right along the head/block joint as well. I haven't tried retorquing it yet.
 
Ideally you want a brass punch to avoid scratching the crank. Brazing rod was probably too soft and too small diameter. Last RMS I did, I used a torx screwdriver that was about the right size. Kept it angle so that it wouldn't hit the crank.
 
ok so just an update I got the RMS out by unbolting the trans and TQ dropping the crank and used a little screwdriver between the block and seal it still took some work. It looks like the RMS was silconed in on both halfs. The weather has had really high humidty here so every thing is really wet so what should I do about the condisation on the inside of the motor?? Im putting on a new filter can I just take it out and drive it for like 45 min?? oh ya just incase any one asks ya new oil also. My other idea was a 500 watt halogen light to heat the inside up befor I put the pan back on to dry some of the water
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

W
Replacing & Availability - '92 Manual 5-speed
Replies
14
Views
3K
four_shot
four_shot
M
Steering wheel stuck after sitting outside a few days
Replies
2
Views
1K
maxbraketorque
M
S
98 XJ manual ignition problem
2
Replies
20
Views
4K
SurplusFan98
S
M
NP 231 input shaft
Replies
3
Views
2K
RCP Phx
R
A
2000 xj aw4 on 34s 4.88 or 5.13
2 3
Replies
49
Views
5K
Andre2000
A
Back
Top