Noises and vibes up front

Odd sound from the front somewhere in 2 wheel drive street mode. Yeah so it sounds like this when accelerating from a stop....sometimes:
ding..........ding.........ding.......ding....ding...ding..ding..ding..ding.dingdingdingding.....gone
it sounds like metal rubbing on metal and once I get up a little speed it goes away and may or may not come back. 4x4 works fine. nothing looks to be terribly wrong underneath, brakes and wheels aren't in contact with anything. I also have some vibes at moderate speed that weren't there yesterday. I'm not sure if this is related, but after longer trips if I stop and shut it down to get gas or food and then restart it, it borders on stalling, give it gas, few knocks form the engine and its good to go. Also have an O2 sensor high volt light for a little while now...not sure whats going on here.
This on on a 2001 4.5"RE 33"BFG MT, adjustable uppers and lowers, Vanco brakes and a full SYE and DS upgrade, dropped sway bar, RE track bar and brace...

Thoughts?
Thanks!

Its also strange cause I only get the vibrations when coasting, tap the gas and they go away...maybe I lost some weights?

need to determine if it an engine problem or a driveline problem?

sounds like you may have 2 problems. one would be the first signs of heat soak issue because of the restart problem of almost stalling and the other could be a bad driveshaft ujoint or cv joint. i dont see a lost weight giving you a metal to metal sound, but can see it causing vibs.

after rethinking, metal to metal could be a bearing failing on one of the engine/water pump/idler pulleys and that could also cause the stalling problem because of resistance.

The belt is running at 700ish rpm around the pulleys at idle...the sound repeats at 1 per second and increases with speed and then goes away, I want to say driveline with the vibrations too, the bearing or bealt squeal is louder and not seemingly rotational or cyclical but is constant. I need to go make sure I didn't throw some weights and the rest of the strip isn't hanging on hitting something...when and if it stops raining. I couldn't imagine a front DS issue as it doesn't get used via direct power that much and is kept well lubricated...something else to look at when it stops raining.

Yeah, so, at the very least this is a failed u-joint at the distal end of the driveshaft. It looks like the joint succumbed to torque stresses as the planes of the yokes are no longer exactly perpendicular and a ring of metal has squished out from under the caps on the axel side along with a rubber seal.

I don't have the ability to do this myself as I am at school without a press or vice or a place to work on it. I think I talked to the nicest guy I have ever interacted with from a dealership service department today. I have an appointment for tomorrow. Any other damage I should look for/expect them to find and bill me for?

This doesn't really account for some of the other noises, and the driver's side unibody rail seems to be covered in what appears to be transmission fluid that I hadn't noticed recently...could that be from the recent cold compromising a seal of some sort?

trans fluid could be the output seal on the transfercase.

ive owned my 89 since 1990 and have gone through 2 output seals. 10$ and 1 hour and its fixed.

as for the ujoint, make sure you get a spicer ujoint. nothing wrong with going to the dealership other than getting a price quote so you arnt shocked at the price when you get the bill. best to get both replaced, not just the one end.

if the price quote is too high, go to the parts store youself and pick up 2 ujoint and look in the phone book for a local garage. should cost under $100 for the joints and install combined.

Pull the drive shaft..see if the noise persists.

89xj said:

trans fluid could be the output seal on the transfercase.

ive owned my 89 since 1990 and have gone through 2 output seals. 10$ and 1 hour and its fixed.

as for the ujoint, make sure you get a spicer ujoint. nothing wrong with going to the dealership other than getting a price quote so you arnt shocked at the price when you get the bill. best to get both replaced, not just the one end.

if the price quote is too high, go to the parts store youself and pick up 2 ujoint and look in the phone book for a local garage. should cost under $100 for the joints and install combined.

Click to expand...

U joints on the other end (CV joint) have about 15k miles on them, no need to replace I don't think, they are still shiny. The t-case is dry, but the transmission pan is covered in fluid...I'm thinking its a bad seal around that. I would have to drive like 150 miles mostly on I-95 to work on this myself. So there isn't too much I can do.