stroker parts list

[Polaris]

Hey, all. I drive a 2000 TJ but I came over here because I know a lot of you have experience with strokers (more so than JF). My 4.0 died, and anticipating the worst I started to part togethar a stroker.
Here's what I have so far:

Sealed Power 677P Pistons, .020" overbore
AMC 258 Crankshaft, '87-'90 here's the link
(http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/AMC-Jeep-crankshaft-kit-258-1987-1990-25300_W0QQitemZ7958692230QQihZ019QQcategoryZ33616Q QssPageNameZWD1VQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem)AMC 258 Connecting Rods
Crane #753905 204/216 degree cam

And I know I'll need odds and ends like bearings and seals. I have a few questions:

Will the head need to be decked with the above parts combination?

Will the above sized crankshaft main/rod bearings that come with the crankshaft work with OEM 258 rods?

Will I need to replace my valve springs or do valve work?

Will I need anything else to make this work?

thanks
Mike

[XJawgi]

i just finished up my stroker w/ basically the same setup..i went w/ the cast 677 piston .030 over, i have the 12 counterweight crank and rods and i have the same camshaft and this is what i did

Will the head need to be decked with the above parts combination?

- i didnt deck my head and i run a normal head gasket that came in my overhaul kit...and i run on 87 octane w/ no ping!

Will the above sized crankshaft main/rod bearings that come with the crankshaft work with OEM 258 rods?
yes

Will I need to replace my valve springs or do valve work?

you can use your factory springs but depending on how spent the head is especially since your 4.0 is done, you should get a valve job done.

Will I need anything else to make this work?
a whole lot of time!!

thanks
Mike

[Bouncy]

Depending on how much you want out of the motor is how much time you put into it.

The crank you have is the 4 counterweight model. Less torque from it. The 1980 and earlier cranks have 12 counterweights and produce more torque.

Have a machine shop measure the compression ratio and shoot for 9.5:1. Just slapping a head on it gives you the mystery machine. And engines aren't that easy to pull and put back in when you have bad problems.

If you blew up the 4.0. Ask the question WHY. What happened to kill a 4.0. Many of us have had 200k plus miles on our motors.

With a bigger cam and stroker motor, have the valve springs checked to see if they can handle the load. Springs lose pressure over time....the old springs may not be strong enough to handle the lift of the new cam.

And the valve job is needed. Milling the head is more of a check than a need. Your head may need .010" milled off for flatness.

Have you looked into injectors yet? Or a fuel pressure regulator? Adjustable map sensor.

Then there are the "should replace" items. Oil pump, water pump, 180 degree t-stat, timing gear, full gasket set for the motor, freeze plugs

Its about a $1500-2000 job if you do it right. Or a $200 job if you plan to redo the job in a year.

If you have any questions, please do ask them. I hate to see a good motor go to waste.

[Dr. Dyno]

Hey, all. I drive a 2000 TJ but I came over here because I know a lot of you have experience with strokers (more so than JF). My 4.0 died, and anticipating the worst I started to part togethar a stroker.
Here's what I have so far:

Sealed Power 677P Pistons, .020" overbore
AMC 258 Crankshaft, '87-'90 here's the link
(http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/AMC-Jeep-crankshaft-kit-258-1987-1990-25300_W0QQitemZ7958692230QQihZ019QQcategoryZ33616Q QssPageNameZWD1VQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem)AMC 258 Connecting Rods
Crane #753905 204/216 degree cam

And I know I'll need odds and ends like bearings and seals. I have a few questions:

Will the head need to be decked with the above parts combination?

Will the above sized crankshaft main/rod bearings that come with the crankshaft work with OEM 258 rods?

Will I need to replace my valve springs or do valve work?

Will I need anything else to make this work?

thanks
Mike

1. Mill the head for flatness if needed and not more than that. Should be not more than 0.010".
2. The 258 main bearings won't work in your 2000 4.0 block. You'll need Clevite part no. MS-1947P. The 258 rod bearings will work fine. Use ARP 112-6001 rod bolts for strength.
3. With the Crane 753905 cam, you'll definitely need stronger valve springs than stock. Go for the same Mopar Performance springs/retainers/locks that I used in my stroker. Valve work will depend on the state of the valves and valve seats.
4. New high volume oil pump, new high flow water pump, Robertshaw 180* t'stat, either '94-'98 OEM camshaft sprocket with existing timing chain and crank sprocket or new Cloyes dual roller timing set, '98 and earlier cam bolt/spring/pin kit, oversize injectors (http://www.fiveomotorsport.com)

You'll find my stroker build-up on this site (http://www.angelfire.com/my/fan/stroker.html) which also includes a comprehensive parts list and all the part nos. that you'll need.

[Polaris]

Thanks for all the inputs and suggestions, you guys are a helluva lot more helpful than JF on this issue.

Dino, I've been up for a few late nights soaking up all the info on your site, thanks :)

The heap is at the mechanic's now (I don't do engine work or slushbox work, outta my league) cause it's not igniting even tho it's getting spark and fuel. I heard a clunk in the engine right when it died, that's why I'm thinking the worst.

so added to the list is
milling the head (if needed)
clevite bearings
ARP 112-6001 rod bolts
22 (or 24) lb injectors

will I need the Cloyes dual roller timing set and '98 and earlier cam bolt/spring/pin kit if I stay with the original cam?
Why would I need a new camshaft and crank sprocket?
Are they both (the crank and cam sprocket) 94-98 OEM?

I'm trying to keep costs down so I may just stay with the OEM camshaft.

thanks for putting up with my questions.

[Polaris]

I should also add that she just turned 104k when this happened.

[Dr. Dyno]

will I need the Cloyes dual roller timing set and '98 and earlier cam bolt/spring/pin kit if I stay with the original cam?

No. You can keep your existing timing set.


Why would I need a new camshaft and crank sprocket?
Are they both (the crank and cam sprocket) 94-98 OEM?

If you replace the stock '99+ camshaft with an aftermarket cam, your '99+ cam sprocket won't fit and that's why you'd need the '94-'98 cam sprocket with bolt kit. The alternative (if you install an aftermarket cam) is to fit the Cloyes dual roller timing set. You CANNOT use the Cloyes set if you keep the stock '99+ cam.

[Frank Z]

Okay folks, this seems like a good place to ask this question.

I picked up my block and stuff today and was in the process of installing the main bearings and crankshaft. The rear of the crank won't drop in and there seems to be an interference between the bearing and the raised flange on the crank itself.

FWIW the Clevite bearing part number is MS1947P-30.

Here ya go...
http://i11.tinypic.com/47tg7bs.jpg

[Clean Racing]

so from the part number of the main bearing set your crank is turned .030 undersize? Honestly is your crank ground that far or just the wrong bearings? It looks like in the picture the trust part of the bearing it too thick for your crank. Mic it out and post up some numbers.

[Frank Z]

The thrust bearing mics out at 1.268, but the crank mics out at 1.19.

Yes the crank is turned .030".

[Clean Racing]

You got the answer right there.... the thrust bearing is wrong, maybe missboxed... I would be making some calls in the am...

[Frank Z]

the thrust bearing is wrong, maybe missboxed...
I'm hoping it's that simple. I've been burning up the WWW trying to find the spec's on the bearings...no luck at all.

[Frank Z]

Got an Assist from a member of another forum...bearing is in wrong location!

Ah crap!! I dug thru the FSM...no info on thrust bearing location, surfed the WWW, no luck there either. Found the proper location in, of all places....a Haynes manual.
GAWD I FEEL STEW-PID!


FWIW, Haynes says the thrust bearing on all 6 bangers, goes in the #3 journal.

[philip_g]

Got an Assist from a member of another forum...bearing is in wrong location!

Ah crap!! I dug thru the FSM...no info on thrust bearing location, surfed the WWW, no luck there either. Found the proper location in, of all places....a Haynes manual.
GAWD I FEEL STEW-PID!


FWIW, Haynes says the thrust bearing on all 6 bangers, goes in the #3 journal.
glad to hear it.

I'm going to totally screw something up putting this thing together :looser:

[Frank Z]

glad to hear it.

I'm going to totally screw something up putting this thing together :looser:You'll do fine. If I can do it, anyone can.

[jeepinwi]

Frank-
I was gonna tell you that the bearing is in the wrong spot, but somebody beat me to it. Good luck with the build, and don't hesitate to ask more questions.

[Frank Z]

Sometimes ya just need to step back, smoke a cigartette, sip some coffee and push the switch on the left ass cheek that turns on the old brain. Can't believe I missed it...oh well. If that's the only problem I run into I'll be a happy guy!

[Dr. Dyno]

Got your PM Frank. Yeah looking more closely at the photo, that's the thrust bearing and it should have been on no.3. I don't know how I missed it earlier. :dunce: