How i set up my 8.8...

I see posts on here all the time about the details of the 8.8 swap so i figured i would share how i set mine up since i just wrapped it up sunday...
-I got the 8.8 out of a 97 explorer 3.73 gears, LSD, and discs.- $150
-went to Autozone for rotors and pads- forgot how much $
-ordered 4.88s and had them installed- $450
-MORE 8.8 kit- $200
-I used the the ss brake hose I had on my xj, passenger side 8.8 line bolted in but the driver side was attached to the 8.8 box... Went back to the junkyard and got a driver side box-to-caliper line from a ZJ that bolted right up, but it was too long so its pretty rednecky looking - $10
-1" wheel spacers, EBAY - $60
-As for the parking brakes, there was NO WAY i was going to buy those $123 cables from MORE. what i ended up doing was cutting the XJ exposed end cable (the part that used to go into the drum) in half and then cutting the end of the 8.8 cable that hooks on to the ebrake with about 3" of cable still on, 2 cable clamps per side... done, and longer.
-For the u-joint i got the flange off of a Mazda pickup B2300 (or whatever one is the same as a ranger) - $10
-Autozone u-joint $10
-Royal Purple- too much damn money

I tried to go cheap but wouldn't scimp on the important stuff.



the only thing left to do is bleed the brakes and throw some tires on it. The calipers go on with the bleeder valve on top right?

Big_JermsXJ said:

The calipers go on with the bleeder valve on top right?

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yes

Yes.

Might want to get it trussed too and weld the tubes to the housing.

ooops oh yea Riddler diff cover- $120

yeah i bought the riddler cover too, it looks sweet i cant wait until it gets here. the axles im looking at are $200 but im going to try to ask them down to $150. It is a complete assembly though. i got 2 explorer lines and a dakota line and some 3/16th brake line so hopefully that will be enough hardwear to hook up the brakes.

Although I am curious as to your e-brake setup, that sounds REALLY easy, so i just figure out a way to connect the cables and then hook it up?

I'm hoping to to this conversion in the near future myself - but why weld the tubes to the housing? Not the first time I've heard this.

xjnewbi said:

I'm hoping to to this conversion in the near future myself - but why weld the tubes to the housing? Not the first time I've heard this.

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B/c the tubes are only spot welded and are know to spin in the center housing.

x2 weld the tubes.

As far as the brake lines go. I decided to just order them from MORE, and im very happy with them. They were clean and very easy to install. They work flawlessly.

OK, that sounds reasonable. Initially I thought welding the tubes was supposed to stiffen the housing but I couldn't really understand how. Your explanation make more sense - thanks

any reason you mounted the shocks so close to the dif housing?
normally on the XJ they are angled out, close to the leaf mounts. I know shocks apparently work better when mounted closer to vertical (as opposed to any angle on them)
I just wonder as I will be mounting my shocks on my 8.8 here soon and have a few dif shocks here which I can mount.

thanks

Ok sorry I thought I had a complete list of everything i did, but I left out welding the axle tubes to the housing. So they ARE welded.


As for the shocks- As you already stated shocks work better when mounted vertical and I didn't want to deal with moving the upper mounts out. My shocks are Rustys 3" shocks and I'm somehere around 5-6" in the rear, so moving them in and up should make them close to the correct length. My leaves are a rustys 3" AAL and another XJ main, so thay are stiff to say the least. From what I have read having them in closer to the center should allow the wheels to travel up and down a little easier. Simple lever fulcrum physics, the shocks will compress less with the same amount of wheel travel. I did the bulk of my shock location research on hot rod sites, figured I would give it a try.

Can someone tell me if the center section is cast iron or steel,.....and what rod did you use to weld the tubes? If the center is cast iron, is preheating necessary?
thanks....

The center is cast. All i have is a stick welder so i opted to have the shop that regeared it weld them for me. I did have them preheat and stich the welds. I have however heard that nickle rods will weld it fine. The shop didn't charge me so i went the safe route.

TheXJfiles said:

Can someone tell me if the center section is cast iron or steel,.....and what rod did you use to weld the tubes? If the center is cast iron, is preheating necessary?
thanks....

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8.8 center section is cast steel, so nickle rods are not necessary. But preheating would probably help.

C85D4x4 said:

8.8 center section is cast steel, so nickle rods are not necessary. But preheating would probably help.

Click to expand...

Well, good thing i went the safe route :laugh3:

does any one have a link for a Ford 8.8 complete install (with pictures) for an XJ... I have found lots for other jeeps using a coil spring but not a leaf spring...I know of XJ's going rear coil springs, would doing a 8.8 swap be a good time to do that or does it take a lot more fab work?

FORD 8.8 REAR AXLE SWAP INFO
http://members.cox.net/rough-riders/...8/ford8_8.html
http://www.bc4x4.com/tech/2003/xj88/
http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/axle/ford8_8/
http://xjfanatic.com/ford88.php
http://www.jedi.com/obiwan/jeep/ford88.html

A coil set up would take a lot more fab work. but IMO if you have the time and ability now would be a great time, I mean you already have the axle out and (I'm assuming) a working one curently under the jeep.

is this the right flange adapter i need?

http://www.shaftmasters.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=12&products_id=148

that looks about right, but don't hold me to that. I know that the u-joint is 2" across, both ways. It would probably be better to call.