Radiator shot...

So my 89 needs a new radiator. 17 years of age and 150,000 miles on the original one isn't too shabby. So question is stay closed or go open? 2 row, 3 or whatever? Never switched out a radiator before, is it a PITA? What else needs to be changed at the same time hoses, t-stat, h20 pump and what can be salvaged if in good working order? What kind of cost am I looking at when I want to go pretty basic? Never had overheating problems even wheeling in our hot summers so close to stock would be okay. Last question do I order through Autozone or someone like that or are there better places online? Thanks for any info...

my '88 needed a rad about 6 years ago...

I went with a GDI 3-row

some guys have had bad luck with them but mine has worked fine even in stop and go hwy traffic.

although I run a manually controlled electric fan and hood vents...

I've heard nothing but good things about the CSF rads Dirk at DPG sells.

Oh... and I kept mine closed

Radiatorbarn.com has good quality all-metal radiators pretty cheap. The one I received was a CSF brand. $115 shipped for the 2-row and $135 for a 3-row last time I looked. I would recommend ordering an open style radiator for a 1992 XJ. The only difference is that it will have a radiator cap, which means you go either open or closed. The rad cap on the open setup is 16-psi and the cap on the surge tank is 6-psi so having the extra cap will make no difference if you decide to stay with the closed setup. The transmission cooler connections are also the same if you have an auto.

Personally, I bought the 2-row 92 radiator for my 89 MJ and went to the open setup about 2-years ago and it was a big improvement. No more boil-overs and the temp is rock steady. My reason for converting was that I wanted to trashed the crappy plastic tank. I had 2 split within 2 years and the cap on the third one kept popping off and causing boil-overs. I also eliminated the heater vacumn valve and mounted a junkyard overflow bottle. In hindsight the overflow bottle I picked is pretty big. Based on the level change from hot-cold, I could have gone for the little $7 quart sized bottle from the local Napa. Back flushing the heater core at the same time also made a huge improvement on the heater.

I would replace the rad hoses if they are stock or old. Might as well do the water pump and thermostat if they have lots of miles as well. Take a hose and flush the heater core back-n-forth until it runs clean. Also hose out the passages behind the thermostat and water pump really well if you do those.

thanks for the info. going to keep her closed and get a 2 or 3 row instead of going with a stock set-up. that radiatorbarnyard place has some sweet prices and i will be ordering with them.

cstilesiscool said:

thanks for the info. going to keep her closed and get a 2 or 3 row instead of going with a stock set-up. that radiatorbarnyard place has some sweet prices and i will be ordering with them.

Click to expand...

check with DPG first...

and support a sponsor.

atriot:

i will thanks...

I got a 2 row off ebay for something like $60 shipped. The three row was something like $40 more. It was a dedicated store for radiators. I was weary but willing to take the risk and it's worked great so far. (4 months now). Pretty simple install, just remove the crossbrace and hoses then stick the new one in.

I'd stay closed - there's nothing wrong with the system. Consensus is that most people who advocate the conversion are people who just needed to change radiators anyhow - which is where you already are. OEM RENIX radiators, I am informed, have a typical service life of 150-180Kmiles.

I've had great good luck with Modine and with Performance Radiator - I've heard that GDI is slipping lately, but CSF is a brand I haven't gotten a lot of negative reports from the field yet, either.

Swapping the radiator proper is not difficult - just keep it flushed (flush the system and change coolant every two years.) Get all new hoses (upper/lower radiator and heater hoses...) and check your water pump for leaks. I'd also suggest changing the thermostat while you're about it - it's cheap enough, and easy enough. Do it after you do the flush (flush the system before you change the radiator - the old radiator will collect crud, and you'll be taking it out of the system with the unit.)

Take the old radiator to the local scrap metal yard - it's copper, and you'll get a few bucks for it.

Also, search up my posts on drilling the thermostat, which you do to make the RENIX system purge itself of air (without intervention from you.) It makes the job a LOT easier to do! If you don't change the thermostat, typical method of purging air effectively is to lift the rear of the vehicle (until the engine is tilted forward) and loosen the temperature sensor at the rear of the cylinder head. Keep adding coolant until it comes out past that sensor steadily, and then tighten it back up. Drilling the thermostat is a lot easier (and works better than the "bleeder hole" in the OEMR units, I think...)

If you're offered a choice between radiators for automatic transmission and standard transmission, I'd get the automatic (even if you have a stuck.) The automatic is designed to exchange head a little more efficiently (because it had to handle the thermal load from both the engine and the transmission...) Most aftermarket radiators are designed for automatics anyhow, tho...

5-90

thanks 5-90 for the info. i had already read some of your posts on this subject and figured you'd chime in. i'm definately going to stay closed and am thinking of getting rid of the stock fan setup while i'm at it and switch to 2 electric fans instead and also, any big difference in getting 3 row instead of 2?

cstilesiscool said:

thanks 5-90 for the info. i had already read some of your posts on this subject and figured you'd chime in. i'm definately going to stay closed and am thinking of getting rid of the stock fan setup while i'm at it and switch to 2 electric fans instead and also, any big difference in getting 3 row instead of 2?

Click to expand...

You won't get any improvement with dual electrics other than haveing a real problem if you loose say the alternator or have an electrical problem. With the combo of electric and mechanical at least one will remain running.
You might also want to do the mixing valve, I understand the new ones are made from metal vs the plastic of the old ones and also replace the expansion tank if your's is as old as the radiator. Surge tanks are available in copper, aluminum and steel, take standard radiator caps and last much longer.
As for 2 vs 3 row, depends on the size of the passages. I'd take a bigger 2 row over a smaller passaged 3 row, the smaller 3 row passages clog easier.
Use distilled water when refilling too...