I broke a drivers side motor mount! Tips & Tricks??

I have done a lot of things to my vehicles, but I've never had to change motor mounts. What is the easiest way to swap out the drivers side mount? Has anyone had to do this? I need some tips. THX!!!!:dunno:

helliphinon8 said:

I have done a lot of things to my vehicles, but I've never had to change motor mounts. What is the easiest way to swap out the drivers side mount? Has anyone had to do this? I need some tips. THX!!!!:dunno:

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its easy simple tools a 2x4 and floor jack

x2. just unbolt and bolt. jack the engine up by the oil pan with a 2x4 between the jack and oil pan. Are you changing the whole mount or just the rubber bushing?

Talyn said:

x2. just unbolt and bolt. jack the engine up by the oil pan with a 2x4 between the jack and oil pan. Are you changing the whole mount or just the rubber bushing?

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motor mounts should be replaced as a whole... with better units, like the M.O.R.E. mounts...

you will prob need to take off the oil filter adapter that attaches to the engine will save you alot of effort if you replace both of them, its on the passenger side its pretty easy though have fun

What Year Jeep????

I've done both HO's and Renix's and the HO can be changed with the adapter in place, while the Renix is almost necessary to remove the adapter.

Jess said:

I've done both HO's and Renix's and the HO can be changed with the adapter in place, while the Renix is almost necessary to remove the adapter.

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X2, did my HO with the oil adapter in place. I opted for the brown dog mounts, they're like 70 bucks, increase the noise/vibes a tad, but well worth it considering I would break a drivers mount every couple runs. I did have to shave the poly where it contacted the lip on the inside of the drivers side engine bracket, not much to take off, just had to angle it. Other than that, they were pretty easy to install.

A couple of long socket extentions cause only getting half a turn on a socket wrench sucks and takes forever.

ill give you this tid bit ! i replaced both sides and engine bracket with the brown dog setup . i did the driverside on week and the pass due to time constraints the next . driver side was a breez the pass side on the other hand was a nitemare . when i took off the mount the whole engine shifted . to get everything to line up i ended up having to loosen driverside and trans mount (new) in order to be able to get everything to line back up .vibrations not to bad . good luck .

I SNAPPED all 3 bolts on the passengers side

I think one was snapped, and a wheeling trip took care of the other 2.

I replaced mine with M.O.R.E. mounts about a year ago on my 96. I just put an engine lift on it to take the weight off the mounts pulled one side and then the other, didn’t have to remove anything other than the mounts. The whole job took 2-3 hours from start to finish.

I was just gonna go up to checker and get a driver's side mount. If I heard right, there's a motor mount and a rubber bushing??? I think I'll just take it all off and take it up to the parts store with me to see what I'll need.

the motor mount and the bushing are one. why are you trying to be cheap about this?
DO NOT buy autozone motor mounts....
opinions are gonna be upgrade to an aftermarket mount, and you'd be foolish not to.

I did my drivers side when I replaced my headers, so the intake and exhaust manifolds were off. It made it like a walk in the park.

humor me whats wrong with auto parts store mounts if you dont wheel it are they just as expensive as good aftermarket ones

the replace ment ones are stronger...thus less likey to go bad??? and they are replaceable bushings where the factory style you need to replace the whole thing

We're in modified, and most here wheel it. If you wheel it you will bust stock mounts, they're a crap design. Heck, my mom's DD 95 cherokee had broken mounts and then sheered the passenger side bolts off in the block. Brown dog mounts are probably the best bang for the buck, them or the M.O.R.E. mounts.

reports from the field also indicate autozone motor mounts have a short lifes span, learn to change them right the first time, because you will be doing it often.
have you looked at the oem design? its not exactly the best.


so the question becomes how much is your time worth? the cheaper brown dog mounts are about twice as much as the autozones (still not very costly, when compared to built axles, and nice shocks). i dont buy crap, and i advise you not to, im not exactly saying buy a ferrari.... cheap insurance.

Browndogs are great, i run them. The Autozone "Anchor" mounts will last about a half year if you don't wheel.

I've had good luck with Anchor or L&S engine mounts (but I don't buy them from AZ. Usually has been NAPA or Carquest, but I haven't had to change them very often.)

Second the 2x4 on the jack under the oil sump, but I prefer something a bit wider - I keep some sections of 2x6 and 2x8 around as well. Amazing how much wood you can use mechanically...

NB: If you're changing one mount, change all three if you don't want to do the job again in a few months. Three? Yah - both sides of the engine, and under the transmission tailshaft. You'll find the transmission mount to be easiest (unless you're stuck with a 1987-1988.5 and the damned Peugeot gearbox - then good luck finding one!) Worn engine mounts can prematurely "fail" a new engine mount in short order (four to six months or so as a DD, generally.)

Aftermarkets mounts in our section of the market are usually pretty good, and I don't see any reason to not use them. However, you should also note that polyurethane bushings are "stiffer" than the OEM elastomers used (look like rubber, but they aren't...) - that's not a problem if you don't mind vibration, and you can get used to it. It's not like it's a solid metal mount, so they're OK for daily service and they are something you can get used to (believe me, solid metal engine mounts can be very harsh, and I've only really seen them on strip cars.)