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waterpump gasket question

xj-boonie

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Hastings, MN
so I'm about to reinstall my thermostat and waterpump, and question about the gasket - anything I should use with it, to make it seal better?

Also,

When the waterpump failed, it shaved some of the inside of the housing - looks like most of that got pumped into the radiator, which I'm replacing too, but was wondering if I should somehow try to flush the block, and how I would do that.

Thanks,
Mike
 
I use a very thin layer of blue RTV on both sides of the gasket. And in the past, I have used no gasket at all, just RTV.
 
As far as flushing the block I'd get a Prestone (or similar) flush n' fill kit, follow the instructions. It really helps if you can get the drain plug out of the block as well as taking the lower hose off of the radiator to get the most crap out when you finally drain AFTER the flush.

(P.S. Be responsible with the old coolant, drain it into a container and dispose of properly. It'll kill pets and even kids if left around and they lap it up)

You may never get the metal out. It'll probably sink to the bottom of the water jacket and stay there (with any luck).

Many will say that the water pump does not need a gasket, other than RTV. I always put a thin layer of RTV (both sides of the gasket, your choice on the type, I like black) to suck it up and fill any little crevices not covered by the gasket itself.

If you put too much however, it'll squeeze out on the outside AND on the inside (into your cooling system) so be liberal enough to cover but conservative enough to not goob it all over.
 
When I do them I remove the old pump, clean the old material off the block then I take a cloth towel and stick it inside the block to soak up and blot up any water in there. At that point I take the new pump and put a thin layer of Indian Head gasket cement on the pumps surface then stick the new gasket on, let it dry for a few minutes, say 10-15. Then once it's glued on there I then take the Indian head and coat the engine facing side with a thin coat and let it sit for a few minutes. Then I put the new pump on. I try very hard to get all the water out of the block, any water on the gasket will ruin it. Once it's on I snug up all the bolts by hand, then use a wrench to get them a bit tighter. I also REMOVE the bracket behind the power steering pump bracket, it goes alongside the block and is attached to the block. I do not try to sneak the pump behind it, I move the dam thing out of the way and this gives you clear and clean access without fear of nicking or screwing up the gasket during assembly.
 
When I do them I remove the old pump, clean the old material off the block then I take a cloth towel and stick it inside the block to soak up and blot up any water in there. At that point I take the new pump and put a thin layer of Indian Head gasket cement on the pumps surface then stick the new gasket on, let it dry for a few minutes, say 10-15. Then once it's glued on there I then take the Indian head and coat the engine facing side with a thin coat and let it sit for a few minutes. Then I put the new pump on. I try very hard to get all the water out of the block, any water on the gasket will ruin it. Once it's on I snug up all the bolts by hand, then use a wrench to get them a bit tighter. I also REMOVE the bracket behind the power steering pump bracket, it goes alongside the block and is attached to the block. I do not try to sneak the pump behind it, I move the dam thing out of the way and this gives you clear and clean access without fear of nicking or screwing up the gasket during assembly.

Indian Head = Permatex Aviation Form-A-Gasket

I do what Rich explained except I only put the stuff on the pump side of the gasket and not the block. Makes for simple replacement of the pump later if it fails. :) I do this with the t-stat housing and even apply the stuff to the inside of the hose connections. The bottle of this stuff lives in my Jeep. Best part is that once you tighten it up you can fill and go, so it's great for trail use.

41WVMXQX7ZL._SL500_AA280_.jpg
 
Indian Head = Permatex Aviation Form-A-Gasket

I do what Rich explained except I only put the stuff on the pump side of the gasket and not the block. Makes for simple replacement of the pump later if it fails. :) I do this with the t-stat housing and even apply the stuff to the inside of the hose connections. The bottle of this stuff lives in my Jeep. Best part is that once you tighten it up you can fill and go, so it's great for trail use.

41WVMXQX7ZL._SL500_AA280_.jpg

Hmm, I actually meant the engine facing side of the gasket. Is that aviation stuff the same as indian head ? Mostly I'm curious if it stores better, that indian head can be a PIA to get the bottle open again if you don't open it every couple of months.
 
Hmm, I actually meant the engine facing side of the gasket. Is that aviation stuff the same as indian head ? Mostly I'm curious if it stores better, that indian head can be a PIA to get the bottle open again if you don't open it every couple of months.

same PITA to open-- chanel locks are your best friend if it's been closed for a while
 
I personally like a thin but not too thin coat of gray rtv on the gasket but that is just me. I have also used black and blue but I like gray best.

As far as the block goes i would just do like someone already said and get a prestone kit and flush it really well.
 
Hmm, I actually meant the engine facing side of the gasket. Is that aviation stuff the same as indian head ? Mostly I'm curious if it stores better, that indian head can be a PIA to get the bottle open again if you don't open it every couple of months.

I've never had a problem opening the jar again, but then I don't get it all over the threads. :D

You described the indian head last time we talked about this and it's pretty much the same stuff. Brown liquid, kinda like molasses. The directions on this stuff say to put it on both sides of the gasket...but I put it on the pump/housing side so that when I take the bolts off it comes off the block easily when you take it apart. Had a mechanic tell me that and I've run stuff for years that way with no leaks. :)
 
I ended up using some Permatex Hylomar that I had - blue stuff , says it's good for thermostat housings and water pumps, has a temp range of -60°F to +500°F, and resists engine fluids, including water, coolant, gasoline, lubricating oils, kerosene and some refrigerants. Put a very thin layer on both sides of the gasket, both of the water pump and thermostat housing. I did remove the power steering pump bracket. I got water pump, thermostat, and power steering pump all torqured back up.

I'm hoping to finish tomorrow - I'll try some of the Permatex aviation stuff on the hose connections. Have left to do - new radiator and new hoses, pully on water pump, new fan clutch (going with the 97 grand cherokee), and then the support pieced/framework, grill, fill, etc.

I did semi-flush. hard to do it the way the perstone kit has you as everything's missing out front :) I sprayed water into the heater hoses till it came out clear, and then sprayed into the thermo housing till it was semi clear coming out the water pump part, but I know I didn't get it all. I may flush after I get it all reassembled.
 
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