Another I need help quick thread

1990 Laredo, 4.0 - 312,000 miles. I have seqrched, but found nothing quiet like my senario. Today i finished installing a new timing chain. Mine had almost and inch and a quarter of slack. All went well. Made sure the marks on the crank and cam gear were lined up when I changed them out. Started it up. Fired right up no problem, and ran great. Was letting it come up to temp. While it was idiling the RPM's slowly started to fall so I eased up the throttle a bit. Let off and was idiling fine, but the RPM's started to fall again to the point where she finally died. Now it will turn over great, but will not crank. It stumbled once or twice but never would fire off. Now Im in a pickle cause I got to work tomorrow.

Check your fuel pressure. Is the pump running? Are you getting spark?

are there points in that year i had an old chevy 350 that ran b4 i changed the chain than wouldnt after it was the points just throwing that out there

Did a bit more investigating. Changed my timing chain, now I have no fuel at the rail. Cant hear my pump priming either. Any suggestions as to how to check my pump without dropping the tank?

Did you try bypassing the fuel pump resister on the driver side fender? Also, I never tried it myself, but I wonder if you could test the pump by unplugging the wire at the resister and run a jumper direct to the battery.

I just read in another forum that I could try unplugging the ballast and shorting the two wires. Will try that and hope for the best

That was it. Looking at the connectors looked like they were plugged up. Upon closer inspection, the female part of the spade connector had slid backwards inside the connector, so it looked like it was plugged in, but there was no connection being made. Also , on another note, noticed that I had a small fuel leak at the QC on the firewall end of my fuel rail. Could I remove this QC and replace with some hose clamps? Was wondering about the pressure?

You don't need to drop the tank on a 90. Just jack the rear up to give you room, and place safety stands!!!! Its a pain ot work around the diff and axle, but easier than dropping the tank. Just be care pulling the pump so you don't lose the strainer or bend the sender float.

But check your fuel pump relay and see if you have volts at the ballast first.

Devil_Mutt said:

That was it. Looking at the connectors looked like they were plugged up. Upon closer inspection, the female part of the spade connector had slid backwards inside the connector, so it looked like it was plugged in, but there was no connection being made. Also , on another note, noticed that I had a small fuel leak at the QC on the firewall end of my fuel rail. Could I remove this QC and replace with some hose clamps? Was wondering about the pressure?

Click to expand...

I wouldn't use hose clamps. The last thing you want is fuel being sprayed right over a hot exhaust. More than likely the o'ring inside of that connection is what has gone back. I just replaced mine this weekend due to a leak in the same spot. You can buy one of the metric oring sets from the Help! company at autozone. I forget what the actual size of the o'ring was but it was in the asorted pack. IIRC it was $5 or $6 for the entire pack of orings.

Is that the inlet side or the return side nearest to the fire wall?

Dealership also sells the quick connect "kit", comes with a plastic throwaway plug that installs the O rings at the right spacing. Just remember to remove the old ones first. I think each connection has three O rings.

Devil_Mutt said:

Is that the inlet side or the return side nearest to the fire wall?

Click to expand...

I had a fuel leak on both ends.:smsoap: The return end (closest to the firewall) was able to be replaced by an o'ring in the assortment package.
The o'ring on the inlet/fuel reg side (Front most portion) needed to be replaced with an o'ring the same size as the injector o'ring that plugs into the fuel rail. I ended up buying an entire set of injector o'rings and just used the one (now I have plenty of extras).

otto said:

Dealership also sells the quick connect "kit", comes with a plastic throwaway plug that installs the O rings at the right spacing. Just remember to remove the old ones first. I think each connection has three O rings.

Click to expand...

The quick connect kit is for connections similar to the one that connects to the fuel regulator. This is different because the "quick connect" portion is in the female end. If I am reading his post correctly he is talking about the return side of the fuel rail. On that end of the rail the "quick connect" is on the rail itself (male portion) and the hose is the female portion.

kennzz05 said:

are there points in that year i had an old chevy 350 that ran b4 i changed the chain than wouldnt after it was the points just throwing that out there

Click to expand...

No points in mine.