Fuse for the fuse box?

So I have some wires plugged into the fuse box for my lights (front hella 500s and rear 50w driving lights) and I recently pulled all my interior to herculine. Well while putting everything back my wires sparked, out of curiosity I tried to recreate it, sure enough...no go. Well I tested the spot where the lights were plugged into and I don't have any power coming from there, but I can still turn her over. So my question is, is there a fuse for the fuse box? If so where is it located? And if not, why would I no longer be getting power out of that section in the fuse box?

~Scott

Year?

Sorry, '89 limited.

~Scott

It's been a while since I looked, but I think all of the fuses in the fuse box are fed from the ignition switch. Upstream of that I think its just fusable links.

Muddy Beast said:

Sorry, '89 limited.

~Scott

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1989 is RENIX. Look underhood just aft of your battery - you should see a group of four DIN relays (1" cubes) with a metal box (about 2"x1"x1") in front of them. That's your starter motor relay.

There's a screwpost on that relay with several wires coming off of it. The one from the battery is standard wire, the rest are fusible links. Check these for bubbling and for spots of "sudden flexibility" (like there's no wire in there) - because you've probably blown one. The insulation may also appear burned.

Fusible links in RENIX are primary distribution circuit protection, and should be replaced with the same gage (same colour insulation - IIRC, fusible link wire is colour-keyed to wire gage.)

So I checked what you're talking about...the bolt in the center of the wire mess has bubbling...and it looks like it's been like that for awhile. And I also checked the wires (a hole mess of them in a tight spot...so kinda hard to do) and several of them feel really soft, almost like, as you said, there's no wire in them. My dads an Electrical engineer, so I'll have him take a look...but should I just home brew some wire to fix them or buy the whole piece new?

~Scott

if they're bad, buy new fuse links. They are the only protection up to the fuse box and you would be inviting an underhood fire with standard wire in it's place. You could also wire inline maxi-fuses in their place, but the should be kept as close to the power source (starter relay) as possible and there's not alot of room for them there.

I was just at Napa this morning and saw they had a small selection of fusable links on their wire rack

R&B/Motormite/Help! do make them, and most all parts stores should have an assortment, but it's often hit-or-miss if they'll have the correct gauges for the circuits you're repairing.

If only I knew a little more about wiring...or atleast, trusted myself a little more with it.

Anyone have an idea of where I could buy fuse links? I may as well replace all of them...since their 20 years old, and it shows.

~Scott

Shorty said:

R&B/Motormite/Help! do make them, and most all parts stores should have an assortment, but it's often hit-or-miss if they'll have the correct gauges for the circuits you're repairing.

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^^^^^^^:rof:

Muddy Beast said:

If only I knew a little more about wiring...or atleast, trusted myself a little more with it.

Anyone have an idea of where I could buy fuse links? I may as well replace all of them...since their 20 years old, and it shows.

~Scott

Click to expand...

Just about any well-stocked auto parts house will have fuse link wire. Replacing them is a simple cut/strip/crimp job, so no real electrical "knowledge" is needed.

I've seen fusible link wire that was a good 40-50 years old that didn't have any trouble, so it shouldn't be any trouble. If you really feel like it, you can replace them all - but it's not really necessary.

Ok so I've started to once again look into fixing my fuse box problem...are the fuse-able linkes the wire with the black buldge shortly after there mount? If so, where do I cut...before or after the black buldge?

And if it's not the fuseable links...anyone have an idea of what else it could be?

Recently I was driving for about 10 minutes when my wildshield wipers stopped working. I checked under the hood about 5 minutes later to find the fuseable links all pretty hot. I let the Jeep sit for an hour while I went to pick a girl up, came back...wiper went on fine and worked all night. This has never happend before so I think it might be related to my no radio/aux lights problem.

~Scott

bump...nobody?

Muddy Beast said:

Ok so I've started to once again look into fixing my fuse box problem...are the fuse-able linkes the wire with the black buldge shortly after there mount? If so, where do I cut...before or after the black buldge?

And if it's not the fuseable links...anyone have an idea of what else it could be?

Recently I was driving for about 10 minutes when my wildshield wipers stopped working. I checked under the hood about 5 minutes later to find the fuseable links all pretty hot. I let the Jeep sit for an hour while I went to pick a girl up, came back...wiper went on fine and worked all night. This has never happend before so I think it might be related to my no radio/aux lights problem.

~Scott

Click to expand...

Geez - gimme time...:laugh:

Seriously, the arrangement should be:

Ring Lug - Fusible Link Wire - Black Join - Standard Wire.

The easiest and best thing to do is to just just after the black join - you'll end up with the section of standard wire exposed, and everything upstream of that (fusible link wire, ring lug, wire join) will be removed. Strip the wire and use a crimp lug to join the fusible link to the standard wire. Make sure the ring lug on the fusible link (if any) has a 3/8" inside diameter (ID) - replace it if not. If there is no ring lug, select one for the gage of wire with a 3/8" ID and crimp it onto the fuse link.

Being cranky, I'll generally use a bullet connector to join the new fusible link wire to the harness - so if I have to replace the thing again, I don't have to cut. A "spade" style quick-connect will also work, I just happen to prefer the bullet. Make sure that whichever you use is shrouded/insulated, the parts house or hardware store should have what you need.

It's really a simple job, and it will only take you fifteen minutes because you probably haven't done it before (with practise, that will get much shorter. Hell, it usually takes me fifteen minutes to crimp together a stereo head unit wiring harness to the vehicle adapter harness anymore - twenty-five if there is no vehicle plug, and I have to sort leads with a wiring diagram...)

And as always, if you're not sure of what you're doing or don't feel confident, posting a "Help!" thread in your local chapter should get you to someone who has done this sort of thing before, and can show you how to do it for the next time.

its also a good idea to disconnect the battery when replacing the fusible links.

Fantastic 5-90! You've come through once again. Alright well this all makes much more sence now. I'll make a trip to the store tomorrow, and hopefully get everything replaced tomorrow!

Thanks again.
~Scott

Alright so I finally got to this little problem...my dad tested all of the links and all of them have a charge going to the other end. So we decided to switch the starter solanoid for a better one (off a junk yard Jeep) and I put that in, but then I went to turn the Jeep over...and it started but then died. Now it wont even turn over. AND my hellas and CB still wont turn on!

Help?

~Scott