Overlooked My Brakes

Well this isnt some crazy accident story, but it could turn into one.

Tonight when doing to get some soda/pop I determined that I need my brake pads and shoes replaced. The shoes Ive know need replaced because, they havent had any power for the last year of use, and now since the front has to grip harder its time to replace the front pads...I think...

I havent checked out the actual wear on the front or rear, but Im sure its time to replace.

My question is though, I have never replaced my pads or shoes, but I hear this BrakePlus stuff where they machine the rotors and drums. I have no plans of going to them since they use cheap economy pads that squeak after awhile. But is the machining of the rotors and drums really nessisary if the rotors arent worn weird, and the drums dont have a lip? Or couldnt I just machine the drums myself with a die grinder and a conditioning bit?

Im sure youre all interested in the specs for some reason like everyone is before they help so.
1988 Jeep Cherokee Pioneer
214,XXXmi
Specs: Renix 4.0, AW4, NP-242, D30/D35, TG R/T 235/75R15

But lately my front brakes have taken alot more effort to engage, and the rear never engaged. Discovered this doing brake stands, and having to do emergeny pass manuevers around town because no one has working brake lights.

don't do anything to the drums or rotors unles you're going to take them to have them machined.
For the price of new rotors, something like $25 when I did it, you might as well buy new ones. It costs $15 locally to have a rotor turned, so toss another $20 at it and just get new ones, that way you don't have to wait.
Drums might be worth turning, they're usually more expensive. The purpost of turning the drums is not to get rid of the lip, it's to ensure that they are not out of round in any way.
Check the rear brakes before buying parts, it's quite possible that the automatic adjust has stopped working. It's a stupid design that has been used forever. I just did all new brakes and hardware in the rear, and after a few thousand miles the adjusters are wonky again, I adjust them when I change the oil.
As a general rule, rear brakes control where the pedal firms up in it's stroke, so if the pedal is going too far to the floor that's where to look, I bet you'll find that the shoes are OK, just that they're not engaging the drum.

Ditto what 'Manche said. Don't mess around with the rotors and drums yourself except for cleaning and a light scuffing. If your pads are worn out, machine or replace the rotors and drums. When I do mine, I buy new rotors.

The specs are needed because there are differences amongst the model years and options. Mine's an '88 as well but is 2wd. Your front rotors are different. You don't have to mess with the wheel bearings. So knowing what you have makes it easier to help you get to the source of the problem and, hopefully, a resolution.

Saudade said:

The specs are needed because there are differences amongst the model years and options. Mine's an '88 as well but is 2wd. Your front rotors are different. You don't have to mess with the wheel bearings. So knowing what you have makes it easier to help you get to the source of the problem and, hopefully, a resolution.

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Sorry if I came off cocky there or anything. I know they are needed for that stuff, just was pooped from school, and work, and house repairs.

I usually have my specs in my signature, but I have yet to register as a member yet. Thats on my to do list, once brakes are repaired, and my new engine arrives.

Thanks much, Ill pull out the chiltons and go check out my rear drums.
Aslo the E-Brake has little stopping power when fully engaged, usually idle on flat ground will brake the friction thats keeping it from moving forward.

EDIT: Well after looking through chiltons it doesnt mention anything about how to adjust the self-adjusting adjusters. Just back up and apply the brakes several time to tune them in. Is it something as simple as a screw, or hex bolt?

Several of our local auto parts shops will turn rotors / drums for free with purchase of brake pads and their prices aren't much more than the chain auto parts places.
With rear adjusters. Mine were too far out and "gummy" to self adjust, so when I did the brakes I took them apart, lubed and adjusted them, now all is well.
Another note; On my '96 two wheel drive I did the brakes and had the pads swapped side to side. The brakes worked well but made a slight "clunk" when applied. I switched them when I rotated the tires and no more noise.
I got new BREMBO rotors at www.TireRack.com for a very reasonable price.