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long arm mount??

bgwyllys61

bgwyllys61

NAXJA Forum User
Location
kentucky
does anyone know where i can get a crossmember for long arms? i wanna make my own arms, but dont want to make the crossmember
 
just not sure how to do it really, and im not sure i want to be responsible for basically the main component under the xj, i mean, it would be holding the tranny and case in place as well as the long arms, so im not sure :helpme:
 
RCman, thats a good lookin mount, kinda what i was thinking in my head


ill have to check on the tnt stuff, maybe they sell just the crossmember?
 
Ba-Riedo said:
Look at the Claytons crossmember, RE, TnT and Rock Krawler ones for ideas.

-Alex
Click to expand...
Good point.
Which brings something to mind. What type of suspension are you planning on building? 3 Link, 4 Link, Radius, ect? That'll in the end dictate the crossmember design.
 
radius arm type, seems to be the easiest to build, and i like the way they ride and handle on the street, and as far as unloading on the trail, i didnt have any issues with that on my old xj, so, i guess i like radius arms lol
 
The TNT crossmember alone is over $400.

I don't get it, you don't want to be responsible for basically the main component under your Jeep, i.e. the crossmember, but you will be responsible for the long arms, which are equally as important?
 
RCman said:
Have you seen mine? Nothing terribly new or innovating, I took several ideas from several crossmembers I have seen.
There really isn't to much to it. Mine is almost complete minus the arm mounts (that is this weekend's task).
Check out here for pictures: http://www.naxja.org/forum/showpost.php?p=244089557&postcount=71
Click to expand...
Your sleeves are not welded on both sides,close copy though.That little pie cut is useless!This was 6 years ago,with a second set made about 4 years ago.
http://hometown.aol.com/__121b_hq51gQJZjgg3M13QnEnq07dcuSjA4ZG3

crossleeve.jpg
 
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RCP Phx said:
Your sleeves are not welded on both sides,close copy though.That little pie cut is useless!This was 6 years ago,with a second set made about 4 years ago.
http://hometown.aol.com/__121b_hq51gQJZjgg3M13QnEnq07dcuSjA4ZG3
Click to expand...

You are right, they are not welding on the inside. That would not have been possible unless I cut out some from the back side. If it is a question of strength I highly doubt they'd go much anyway. They are really only there to stop crud from getting inside the crossmember and rusting it out.
The replaced piece does serve a purpose. It drops the trans mount down 3/8". That may not seem like a lot, but it brings the trans and t-case back to about 3/4" higher than stock given the extra material between the new mounts for the crossmember and the plated uni-body. If that makes sense. I didn't want to force it up much as the linkage would start having issues.
Also, the replaced piece is welded fully on the outside as well as a few short sections on the inside where I could get my gun in though the holes before they were sleeved.
As for the copy, I honestly hadn't seen yours before. Looks good! I already have sketches done for link mounts that look very similar to that the ones in your link.
 
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Stopping moisture and adding strength is why I did it.A drop is built in to mine!The pie cut I was refering to was the top,it serves no strength at all,you could accomplish the same thing with a notch.Since you used flat stock,thats going to be the weak spot!
 
RCP Phx said:
Stopping moisture and adding strength is why I did it.A drop is built in to mine!The pie cut I was refering to was the top,it serves no strength at all,you could accomplish the same thing with a notch.Since you used flat stock,thats going to be the weak spot!
Click to expand...
I knew which cut you were referring to. Using the 1/4" replacement was really the only option. There would be no way for me to accomplish a non-flat replacement without cutting it up like yours is. However, cutting mine up to look like yours would mean having lowered the trans and t-case below their stock height. Why would I want to loose clearance?
Weak spot? Maybe, but again I highly doubt there will be any sort of failure in that spot. The replaced piece doesn't just meet at the edges, it extends past on the inside by almost 5/8" on each side, then welded as much as I could on the inside with my gun through the holes for the socket. Which really was only about 6 1" welds.
 
RCman said:
The replaced piece does serve a purpose. It drops the trans mount down 3/8". That may not seem like a lot, but it brings the trans and t-case back to about 3/4" higher than stock given the extra material between the new mounts for the crossmember and the plated uni-body. If that makes sense.
Click to expand...
Actually,it didnt make sense!
 
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