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I'm new to lockers.

heyjpark1

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Oakesdale, WA
I've had lots of XJ's in the past and used them as slightly modified daily drivers. Basically I've thrown BB lifts on them for my hunting excursions in the fall. I've had the chance to buy another XJ that I intend to build for some roading, and I want to start by locking it.

I know there are countless threads on installing various lockers (i.e. air, electric, cable, etc.). I'm looking for some concise info on the pros, cons and application of each type of locker.

I'm also curious about the reason why you shouldn't lock the front if you're using the full time mode on the heep. I don't ever use the FT mode, I'm just curious. (BTW: '89 with 242 xfer case)

I consider myself a total novice when it comes to drive line and suspension work, for what it's worth. I am not at all a novice when it comes to wrenching, its just that 98% of my time is spent on engine or electrical work.

Also, I'm intending to do around a 4.5" lift with 33's. I'd like to re-gear the rear end to get back to the stock ratio eventually.
 
SEARCH,there has to be 10K posts on every locker known to man.

On a side note,there really should be a "sticky" on lockers", but they wouldn't read it anyway".
 
your case will be fine, just dont use it on the road. Its the FULL TIME ONLY cases (Quadra trac, NP249) that will be bad on road.

As for locker choices, ive dont some searching myself, idk what rear end you have, so you should have told us that (or tell us now), as well as your year so we can tell if its an HP or what... Ill start with the dana30 since all have them...

Auto lockers - aussie would bea great choice, about $230. Its pretty quiet, clicks maybe once in sharp turns if your driving on the road. Off road it performs great, but you may have to put your transfer case into 2wd to make sharp turns.

Air - ARB comes to mind, good push button locker, be ready to spend about $800-900 on this plus $250 for a compressor, very strong locker though.

Cable - OX locker, around $850ish, you have to use a cable to actuate it which isnt as fun as a push button locker, and can be tricky to set up the cable, sometimes they pop out of lock, i have heard of fitement problems with these, not a big deal. One awesome hting about them is they come with a new cover, big stiff cover, definitely a good thing to have with the dana 30.

Electrical: 2 choices, the eaton E locker and the Auburn ECTED.
E-locker: Push a button, it locks. simple, effective, strong, proven, not as strong as an ARB but good on a budget. No lines or anything to run, havent head much of any failures in these. No stiff cover with it like the OX, but its about $720ish so for the saveings you can buy a cover of your choice.
Auburn ECTED: Is it a locker? you decide, it does not mechanically LOCK the axles together, but it uses a super strong clutch pack type system (same as those in LSD differentials) to "lock" (if you want to call it that) the shafts together. This works fine if it A) is used on 33" tires or smaller, B) is not used for extreme rock crawling, C) has the correct type of friction modifier in it at all times, and D) is not old and worn out. These things have been prone to failure when used in extreme conditions. Sometimes they do funky stuff like stop working all together, or stop temporarily, wait till you start spining a tire then they suddenly lock and snap a shaft, they do some wierd stuff. Only good thing about this locker is the price ($650-700ish) and hte fact htat when its not in "locked" mode, it is a really good LSD. This setup would only be a good one if you are running 31-33" tires, live in alaska or someplace where it snows a ton, and occasionally need good rear traction to get through something around some local trails.

BTW, i dont think they make the auburn ected for the dana 30, i was refering to like an 8.8 or d44. But even if they did, i wouldnt run it up front.
 
He already said he's got the NP242(Part time and Full time)!
 
your case will be fine, just dont use it on the road. Its the FULL TIME ONLY cases (Quadra trac, NP249) that will be bad on road.

As for locker choices, ive dont some searching myself, idk what rear end you have, so you should have told us that (or tell us now), as well as your year so we can tell if its an HP or what... Ill start with the dana30 since all have them...

Auto lockers - aussie would bea great choice, about $230. Its pretty quiet, clicks maybe once in sharp turns if your driving on the road. Off road it performs great, but you may have to put your transfer case into 2wd to make sharp turns.

Air - ARB comes to mind, good push button locker, be ready to spend about $800-900 on this plus $250 for a compressor, very strong locker though.

Cable - OX locker, around $850ish, you have to use a cable to actuate it which isnt as fun as a push button locker, and can be tricky to set up the cable, sometimes they pop out of lock, i have heard of fitement problems with these, not a big deal. One awesome hting about them is they come with a new cover, big stiff cover, definitely a good thing to have with the dana 30.

Electrical: 2 choices, the eaton E locker and the Auburn ECTED.
E-locker: Push a button, it locks. simple, effective, strong, proven, not as strong as an ARB but good on a budget. No lines or anything to run, havent head much of any failures in these. No stiff cover with it like the OX, but its about $720ish so for the saveings you can buy a cover of your choice.
Auburn ECTED: Is it a locker? you decide, it does not mechanically LOCK the axles together, but it uses a super strong clutch pack type system (same as those in LSD differentials) to "lock" (if you want to call it that) the shafts together. This works fine if it A) is used on 33" tires or smaller, B) is not used for extreme rock crawling, C) has the correct type of friction modifier in it at all times, and D) is not old and worn out. These things have been prone to failure when used in extreme conditions. Sometimes they do funky stuff like stop working all together, or stop temporarily, wait till you start spining a tire then they suddenly lock and snap a shaft, they do some wierd stuff. Only good thing about this locker is the price ($650-700ish) and hte fact htat when its not in "locked" mode, it is a really good LSD. This setup would only be a good one if you are running 31-33" tires, live in alaska or someplace where it snows a ton, and occasionally need good rear traction to get through something around some local trails.

BTW, i dont think they make the auburn ected for the dana 30, i was refering to like an 8.8 or d44. But even if they did, i wouldnt run it up front.

Thank you! Exactly what I was after. Looks like for my budget and my situation, an Aussie would fit nicely.

@ RCP Phx : Did you read my post? I know there are countless threads on lockers, mostly consisting of "dude!!1!!!1 what locker shood I runz?". I was looking for a concise thread on the pros/cons and applicatons of each type. Uggggh to search nazis...
 
OX locker... you have to use a cable to actuate it which isnt as fun as a push button locker, and can be tricky to set up the cable
Everyone is a lazy bastard, its really not hard at all to set up the cable. Once you do, it feels really nice to go in, and you can tell its engaged.
 
What rear dif do you have? If your going to lock? Your going to off hard with big tires? So I would think about getting a D44 or a 8.25 at the same time,
 
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