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CTM's in a DD

The Box

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Knoxville
Im pretty sure this is a dumb question, but bear with me.

I just picked up a set of axles from a guy that are already set up. hp30/xj44, both have alloy shafts, 4.56, and arb's.

The front has 30 spl inner/outer shafts with CTM's.

The CTM's are overkill for my setup right now (32's), but still cool i guess.

I have no experience with CTMs so Im not sure about their limits, except that I was told that they don't use bearings (if I remember correctly).

My question is this:
Since this jeep is my daily driver is it best to just swap them for an alloy u-joint, or would they stand up to frequent hwy use? (The guy that sold them to me said they are fine if you grease them every few weeks, but i find that hard to believe if they are bearing-less.)
 
PM xdumptruckx

Ben worked @ CTM for quite some time. I dont think they will be a problem but you can shoot him a message to double check.
 
What I'm really wondering is how can you have CTM joints in a D30 when they're only offered for 44 and 60's?
 
swbooking- Thanks I will contact him.

RCP Phx- Thanks for responding. I saw that when I was trying to figure it out, but the info seems vague to me. "Generally, grease them every trip or when you lube the rest of the vehicle once again depending on driving conditions." I may be misinterpreting that but theres a big difference between every trip and every oil change.

CTM's question: How frequently should you grease your ujoints.
CTM's answer: 65 percent of the time you should grease them everytime. Depending on your conditions.
 
D44 u-joints are the same as most D30 u-joints. Both are 5-297x. (Some dana 30 u-joints are 5-260x)
 
I DD'd on CTM's for almost 3 years with no issue at all. I hit them with grease about once a month, it takes 2 minutes.

If you think about it, the u-joint caps only rotate when you're going around a corner, and even then not very fast. The lack of a bearing there is not huge.. its not like a driveshaft u-joint that is in constant motion.

When you're in 2 wheel drive, the only load they have is the weight of the third member and driveshaft spinning, which isn't all that much work either.

I have hubs on my rig now and don't notice 'less' wear.
 
Well they make a valid claim,your driving "condition" will dictate your maintanence,I grease everything on my rigs before every trip!Remember although they a rotating,they are not under load(2WD).
 
also, when they start to wear, you can buy new caps+bushings from CTM for a lot less than buying new joints.. I think its about $80 for a total rebuild of both joints.
 
D44 u-joints are the same as most D30 u-joints. Both are 5-297x. (Some dana 30 u-joints are 5-260x)

Cool that's good to know although I don't see spending that kind of money on a D30 anyway.
 
Cool that's good to know although I don't see spending that kind of money on a D30 anyway.

I can. A broken u-joint leads to a broken balljoint. When this is you stuck on the trail, the $400 for CTM's suddenly doesn't seen like much money. =) Particularly since you will only ever have to buy them once.

interferance.jpg


balljoint-seperation.jpg
 
Good points,

I would grease them before wheeling or hwy trips for long distance. But I'm on the hwy 30 min at a time, a couple times a day about every day. Plus in the winter I use full time 4 wheel drive alot or the time.

Cal if you've done then it should be fine. Im just trying to think about all the factors.

Am I just thinkin about this too much now?:rattle:!!!1

note: they already came with the 30.
 
Yeah, thinking about it too much.

I've done it, so have hundreds of others. I drove 55 miles each way across los angeles with them for a year and a half, as well as to/from the trail, on the trail, etc. I probably forgot about half of my monthly greasings.

Recently I pulled my shafts for inspection (i had to take my knuckles off anyways) and one (out of 8 total) of my bushings was loose. I already had a full set of 8 new caps with bushings on the shelf, so I swapped them out. I saved the 7 good ones for later.

One thing that does matter is quality of grease. CTM suggests using "Pure Power", and after buying some and running it, I'd stick to that if i were you. CTM sells it for about $10 per tube online. I lost my grease gun in a move before i was able to use up the first tube (after several years of using it..)
 
Plus you said you already bought the axles with them in there,Kinda-no-brainer,run em!
 
Well if thats the case then Ill keep them in there.

I was hoping that would be the case partially because they are stronger, but mostly cause it saves me work.

Thanks guys
 
holy shit, CTMs on 30 spline alloys you are definitley good to go. Just be careful with your ring gear and housing, maybe a stiff cover and a truss?
 
holy shit, CTMs on 30 spline alloys you are definitley good to go. Just be careful with your ring gear and housing, maybe a stiff cover and a truss?


with 32's, he probably doesnt need to worry about that just yet.
 
yeah true, I used to think i would run the 27 splines, but I think if it werent for the different carrier in the 30 spline shafts i would buy the 30 spline alloy USAs, because if you break a shaft out of warranty, its $500-600 for a new set, but if you grenade your R&P a new dana 30 is probably only a few hundred dollars. Only thing to remember is A) you will only break one shaft, not both (so maybe only $250-300) and the Alloy USA Warranty is 10 years, then obviously the different size of carrier. This only applies to the Alloy USA shafts, but they are arguably the best way to go.
 
Well, now we have a new sponsor, Nitro Gear and Axle, with a lifetime warranty on 27 spline CrMo shafts..

more to think about. :)
 
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