water pump issues.

Ok I need to throw this out there and see if anyone else has had the same issue.

Jeep overheated two weeks ago, condemned the water pump. Had installed it when I built the engine over a year ago. Factory jeep water pump, never had issues before. Now the water pump is off and you can see where the impeller has been hitting the inside of the block. Go to install the new water pump (hesco with billet impeller) and it will not sit flush with the block. Grab a new factory jeep pump, and it will not sit flush with the block a little over 1/8" gap between the block and water pump housing. I am guessing that JEEP was lazy that day when this block was machined and did not cut the pocket out deep enough. Has anyone ever run into this.. I have a new engine getting machined right now, but was not planning on swapping out this soon.. I am open to suggestions at the moment.. I plan on calling Hesco in the morning.. Thanks..

Ok problem solved...

Apparently when I torqued the head the front head stud went down to far into the block and was interfering with the water pump. So crisis over..

Damm, I thought there might be a cool engine swap in the near future!

the bolt was in too far? what did you do to fix it? cut the bolt shorter?

its funny that you thought Jeep had a "lazy" day when they built your motor.

FordGuy said:

Damm, I thought there might be a cool engine swap in the near future!

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Oh there still is another swap in the near distant future... The new pistons are done and the block is being machined.. I need to find another Renix head that is not cracked or porous...

tigerShark said:

the bolt was in too far? what did you do to fix it? cut the bolt shorter?

its funny that you thought Jeep had a "lazy" day when they built your motor.

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Yeah I have ARP head studs and I had the front one screwed in too far. I took the head stud out, bolted the water pump up and screwed the head stud back in till the pump stopped, then backed it out 1 turn. So now its all good.. I was thinking maybe I got a poorly machined block, but no... my error..

Clean-RC said:

Yeah I have ARP head studs and I had the front one screwed in too far. I took the head stud out, bolted the water pump up and screwed the head stud back in till the pump stopped, then backed it out 1 turn. So now its all good.. I was thinking maybe I got a poorly machined block, but no... my error..

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Wouldn't this cause your head gasket to leak? IMO it doesn't sound like that is the best method for solving your problem.:dunno:

VAwheeler said:

Wouldn't this cause your head gasket to leak? IMO it doesn't sound like that is the best method for solving your problem.:dunno:

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NO! since the coolant is drained, and the engine has not been started, loosened the nut, removed the stud, sealed with RTV, then reinstalled and torqued again without even turning the engine over.. IF I HAD REMOVED ALL THE STUDS THEN YES I WOULD EXPECT THE HEAD GASKET TO FAIL POSSIBLY.

Clean-RC said:

NO! since the coolant is drained, and the engine has not been started, loosened the nut, removed the stud, sealed with RTV, then reinstalled and torqued again without even turning the engine over.. IF I HAD REMOVED ALL THE STUDS THEN YES I WOULD EXPECT THE HEAD GASKET TO FAIL POSSIBLY.

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Okay. I am following you now. :idea:

I was reading it as the head bolt was not alloqing the water pump to turn due to the interference with the impeller, so you just left one of the head bolts "backed out 1 turn".

VAwheeler said:

Okay. I am following you now. :idea:

I was reading it as the head bolt was not alloqing the water pump to turn due to the interference with the impeller, so you just left one of the head bolts "backed out 1 turn".

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Not "bolt", he's using "studs" with a nut to torque to spec.

Makes no difference how deep the stud is as it can still be torqued to spec, whereas a bolt would need to be driven till it bottoms out.

But your correct that the stud was too deep and making contact.