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long arms? johnny Joints?

drknyt

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Cedar City, UT
i have a 94 xj with a long arm set up in the front, im not sure what brand it is, i bought it this way, its not adjustable and it doesn't flex alot because it uses factory bushings, would johnny joints be a good upgrade or no?
 
if it uses factory rubber bushings at both ends, upgrading one end to a misalignment joint would prove to be a good upgrade for flex, ride quality might suffer a little, if you care! you say they arent adjustable, so how do you plan on attaching these JJ's, chances are if the previous owner fabbed em that way, he didnt intend the ID' of the tube to match up with the OD' of a jj, it may match up, it might not! you might end up needing to weld in a spud to receive the threads of the joint,
AT WHICH POINT, you might as well fab up some new arms, and keep the old ones as spares/resell if your not a certified welder
 
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hope that helps, thanks
 
i need/want more flex out of the front end, i can weld but don't have benders or notchers, i'm stuck on building some, or buying some, or if there is anything to make these better, if i were to buy i've been looking into rustys long arms, just the lowers, are they decent or crap?
 
the mounts are made of 1/4" thick metal that wraps around the frame and is welded to it and also the cross member holds them up, its hard to tell but where they are welded to in the picture is a plate that wraps around
 
Assuming those brackets ARE safe, and the tubing is thick enough DOM... You could cut off the frame side bushing, weld in a tube adapter, and use a flex joint.

One thing that will hurt your flex here is the lack of triangulation. If you look at most radius arm setups, the arms mount to the cross member. By moving the frame side arms closer together, you create triangulation and less binding during flex.

RK can get away with frame brackets because they use a true 3 (or 4) link, and do not bind as easily as a radius arm setup.
 
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