• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

Front Rotors: OEM or Aftermarket?

Leica99XJ

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Florida
The pulsating in my brake pedal is really starting to annoy me, so it's time for new rotors. The question is which ones? Jeeps Are Us has a pretty good deal on OEM front brake "kits" (rotors, pads, pins, boots) for 130 bucks, but if they are going to warp again in a year I'd rather go with aftermarket if they're any better.

Ford Crown Vics have the same issues with warping, and I was able to find a company that cryogenically treats rotors for my Vic. Anything like that for Jeeps?

[edit] Sorry, XJ in question is a 99 SE 4x4.
 
Yes,Cragar has them(cross drilled/slotted/and cryo'ed).I just put a set on before our Ouray run.I was towing my trailer up there.Im pretty sure nothing else would have survived!
 
I'm running Powerslot rotors with Hawk LTS pads. They can lock up my 32s quite nicely! Before, I had some scary times after I added the bumper and winch with stock pads and rotors.

For OEM replacement size rotors, drilled rotors are worthless. Cryo is nice, but not usually needed for our size brakes. A good set of slotted rotors are worth it, though. I'd definately recommend Powerslot rotors and Hawk HPS pads (or LTS if you have a lot of extra weight).
 
Yes,Cragar has them(cross drilled/slotted/and cryo'ed).I just put a set on before our Ouray run.I was towing my trailer up there.Im pretty sure nothing else would have survived!

Did you notice a significant difference over stock?

Also, what type of pads are recommended with them?
 
Did you notice a significant difference over stock?

Also, what type of pads are recommended with them?
Oh,hell yes.I also purchased the metallic "extreme truck and tow" pads".As I was coming into Telluride my rotor temps hit above 400* and they loved it,the brake fluid unfortunately didnt!
 
I had the same pulsating while braking. To fix it I had my rotors turned and put in some Bendix pads. My braking improved a bit afterwards too.
 
I found a set of knife edge slotted rotors on ebay that come powedercoated on the hubs. I skipped the drilled ones. (well, I actually got them, then a set of WJ rotors to replace them, then the correct rotors - the company lost money I think as they covered all the shipping...) I also added performance friction ceramic pads from AutoZone and there was a noticable improvement in stopping (with 31 in BFG's). I have not had any issues so far with warping like I did with dealership rotors. I got replacement rotors for my 96 from the dealer through a recall and warped them in no time - with factory sized tires.

I cannot think of the name of the seller on ebay but they were the only ones who powdercoated the hubs (which is holding up quite well actually). With the new pads, I don't think I spent over $160.
 
I've played around with aftermarket rotor/pads on my little Neon R/T, NOT Jeep, so this application may be so far off, it might NOT apply, BUT:

I did NOT like the Performance Friction Carbo-Metallic pads from Auto-Zone, sure they were better than most, but I still had inconsistent performance and generally worse than the best pads I have used.

EBC Greenstuff, I've used several times and just refreshed my Neon R/T brakes with them, they are awesome, but a little rough on the rotors. Your rotors will likely need to be turned after a set of EBC Greenstuff pads wear out. Noticeable higher brake force with less pedal effort, consistently, the brake force was absolutely linear and no fade for Spirited street driving. This includes threshold braking from 70mph to a stop to just check the pads out.

Tirerack sells different brands of Cryogenic treated rotors for my Neon R/T, I got the cheaper brand, Centric Cryo-Stop, they also are black coated in the non-contact areas, they seem to improve performance a bit. The real benefit of the cyro-treated is suppose to make the rotor tougher to stand up to abuse and NOT wear as fast, unevenly or warp as easy. So, my cryo-rotors are pretty new and can't really comment on whether it works OR NOT, plus these were the less expensive cryo-treated, so arguably the cryo-treament might NOT be as thorough as the other more expensive brands.

I have bought different brands of aftermarket direct OEM replacement rotors before, these Centric Cryo-Stop rotors definitely appeared far higher quality than any the OEM or aftermarket OEM direct replacement.
 
I had the same pulsating while braking. To fix it I had my rotors turned and put in some Bendix pads. My braking improved a bit afterwards too.

Well unfortunately, these are the same rotors that were on the Jeep when I bought it, so I have no clue about the quality.....If they are OEM, it's probably not worth turning them. Besides, I've always been told (by mechanics) if rotors are warped to replace them.
 
My '98 had the recall rotors put on it in 2004 under recall by a dealer while in for other work at 66,600 or so (no that's not a joke either) and I'm still using them at 122k (just turned the past day or so) with no warping issues as of yet. Don't know if this makes much difference, but if myself or Dad have the wheels off for any reason, we always torque them down properly and I've gotten into the habit of watching the lights and doing alot of coasting up to the lights unless I have no choice but to jump on them (the basic hypermiling stuff really.) I've had good ehough experiances that they'll be replaced with new ones when the time comes.
 
I just use wagner steel rotors from the parts store, $24 ea last time I bought them 3 years ago. They are still on there, I use the same rotors on both TJ's and the ZJ. I want no part of those composite rotors. I could use slotted rotors but I still play in the wood and cross streams, after seeing a rock get stuck in one and route out the pad I'll pass.
Actually I think I'll rotate my tires tomorrow before it gets cold and see what they look like now, got the parts on the shelf and I might even use that set of cryo treated rotors I got down in Orlando a few years ago and never used.
 
I use semi-metalic pads on the front. I believe semi-metalic pads are listed as standard on my 98', so I suspect they are listed as standard on a 99' also.

Last time I bought rotors, about 6 months ago, I got the "cheap" rotors from NAPA, 30 or so dollars each.

I simply have never had a performance issue with the brakes on my 98'. The different caliper design, metalic brakes, and the 2.5" wide shoes in the back have stopped me everytime I have asked them to. I do run OS tires, but nothing too outlandish, just 31's. If I need extra brakes, or don't want to heat up what I have, I use the engine as a brake.
 
I could use slotted rotors but I still play in the wood and cross streams, after seeing a rock get stuck in one and route out the pad I'll pass.

That's a good point. I'm always driving on gravel/dirt roads, and also going off road quite a bit so maybe slotted/drilled rotors aren't such a great idea.

So where can I find these Waner steel rotors?
 
That's a good point. I'm always driving on gravel/dirt roads, and also going off road quite a bit so maybe slotted/drilled rotors aren't such a great idea.

So where can I find these Waner steel rotors?
Just about any parts stores, I got my last sets at National Auto.
 
I have 60,000 miles on stock Jeep rotors and pads. They have been back and forth over the Vail pass on I-70 4 times. Try http://www.frozenrotors.com/ .

Warped rotors are usually caused by improperly torqued lug nuts. Every time the wheels are removed by someone besides yourself, you should loosen the lug nuts and re-torque them to 85-115 ft/lbs.
 
Some things I have read;

Warped Rotors are NOT what people envision in their head when you say it. They envision the disc of the rotor actually bends or twists, which is actually called "tuliped", and rarely ever happens. Warped rotors are rotors that the surface softened enough that it deformed, usually getting the rotor to hot, that the metal softens enough that the great pressure on rotor from the calipers/pads actually pinches the metal in a bit and the surface is uneven.

I've read the biggest cause of warped rotors is often after a hard stop or long brake application, like down hill, when the rotors are really hot, while sitting at the light, the driver applies way more brake pressure than necessary to hold the vehicle at a stop. That continued pressure on one spot of the rotor, while its really hot, will allow the relatively softer metal (from the heat) to pinch in and produce an uneven surface.

Yes, I've read that uneven torquing of the lug nuts can warp rotors, I "think" it is the number 1 cause on some vehicles (because of their rotor/brake and wheel design), NOT the number 1 cause on all vehicles. I don't know if this is the case with the XJ or NOT, either way the advice about making sure lug nuts are evenly torqued is perfectly valid.

Tempering metal, changing its hardness, etc involves heating the metal till its soft and then cooling it with carbon present, etc. Guess what is happening when you overheat your brakes, all those conditions are present. So its possible to actually develop "Hard Spots" in the metal surface on the rotor. That can affect the pads and the friction, it can wear unevenly and/or cause pulsating in the brake pedal, etc.

I had a problem with pulsating pedal in my mini-van and one pad on one rotor always tilting as it wore, making the problem worse. Even after turning the rotor, it still did it. There was a dark spot on this one side of the rotor as well. I was considering a new caliper, but a new rotor cured the problem and it has never come back. I suspect the dark spot on the rotor surface was a hard spot, either from overheating the brakes or it might have been a metallurgy defect during manufacture.

In short, turning the rotors can cure a lot of brake problems including warped rotors, it might NOT, and you may need to replace the rotor. If you warp the rotor, it could develop a hard spot that goes below the surface, it might NOT, so turning the rotor to give you fresh flat surface may work, it may NOT, there may still be a hard spot in the metal that will have a different friction co-efficient and wear unevenly.

Considering that in a lot of cases, the turning service for a rotor often costs more than half the cost of a new rotor, its probably just worth it to replace the rotor, NOT turn it.
 
Some things I have read;

Warped Rotors are NOT what people envision in their head when you say it. They envision the disc of the rotor actually bends or twists, which is actually called "tuliped", and rarely ever happens. Warped rotors are rotors that the surface softened enough that it deformed, usually getting the rotor to hot, that the metal softens enough that the great pressure on rotor from the calipers/pads actually pinches the metal in a bit and the surface is uneven.

I've read the biggest cause of warped rotors is often after a hard stop or long brake application, like down hill, when the rotors are really hot, while sitting at the light, the driver applies way more brake pressure than necessary to hold the vehicle at a stop. That continued pressure on one spot of the rotor, while its really hot, will allow the relatively softer metal (from the heat) to pinch in and produce an uneven surface.

Yes, I've read that uneven torquing of the lug nuts can warp rotors, I "think" it is the number 1 cause on some vehicles (because of their rotor/brake and wheel design), NOT the number 1 cause on all vehicles. I don't know if this is the case with the XJ or NOT, either way the advice about making sure lug nuts are evenly torqued is perfectly valid.

Tempering metal, changing its hardness, etc involves heating the metal till its soft and then cooling it with carbon present, etc. Guess what is happening when you overheat your brakes, all those conditions are present. So its possible to actually develop "Hard Spots" in the metal surface on the rotor. That can affect the pads and the friction, it can wear unevenly and/or cause pulsating in the brake pedal, etc.

I had a problem with pulsating pedal in my mini-van and one pad on one rotor always tilting as it wore, making the problem worse. Even after turning the rotor, it still did it. There was a dark spot on this one side of the rotor as well. I was considering a new caliper, but a new rotor cured the problem and it has never come back. I suspect the dark spot on the rotor surface was a hard spot, either from overheating the brakes or it might have been a metallurgy defect during manufacture.

In short, turning the rotors can cure a lot of brake problems including warped rotors, it might NOT, and you may need to replace the rotor. If you warp the rotor, it could develop a hard spot that goes below the surface, it might NOT, so turning the rotor to give you fresh flat surface may work, it may NOT, there may still be a hard spot in the metal that will have a different friction co-efficient and wear unevenly.

Considering that in a lot of cases, the turning service for a rotor often costs more than half the cost of a new rotor, its probably just worth it to replace the rotor, NOT turn it.

One thing to try and it works to a limited extent, find a large flat area like a stadium parking lot, accelerate and apply the brakes as you are accelerating, you want to heat them up then let the brakes off and allow the jeep to slow to a stop in a straight line without applying any braking then let it sit for a half hour and allow the brakes to cool back down. Steel has memory and *sometimes* you get them hot they will 'remember' where they are supposed to be. I never had warped rotors in any of my jeeps BUT my wife who is tough on brakes had warped the rotors on her Oldsmobile, they were also composite, I tried this trick up at the raceway and it just about removed all the pulsing from the brake pedal, it was a last ditch try and it worked, they had been turned once so it was try it and maybe not have to buy a new set right then.
 
I just use factory replacement parts from autozone, I just redid everything front and rear and when i stomp on the brake pedal, the jeep not only locks all 4 tires, but it sounds like a semi which i found cool :)
 
I've read the biggest cause of warped rotors is often after a hard stop or long brake application, like down hill, when the rotors are really hot, while sitting at the light, the driver applies way more brake pressure than necessary to hold the vehicle at a stop. That continued pressure on one spot of the rotor, while its really hot, will allow the relatively softer metal (from the heat) to pinch in and produce an uneven surface.

That's why I've always tried to pop the trans in neutral and get off the brakes if I'm on a stop light on level ground.
 
Back
Top