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Reviews of TeraFlex Discs?

originalxj

NAXJA Forum User
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I'm looking to finally upgrade the rear brakes on my 91'. I have an XJ D44 that is equipped with a PowerTrax NoSlip but otherwise stock.

Questions-

1- I read about interference issues with the stock (Aluminum 10 hole) wheels. Anyone have any comments or data on this issue?

2- Concerning the proportioning valve, do I need to upgrade or modify?

3- Will I achieve better braking, or is this just a swap owners are doing for other reasons? Such as ease of maintenance, better performance when wet... etc.

4- The big question. With the cost of this kit I could do approxitmately 4 drum brake jobs. Thats a lot of miles. Is this kit worth the $660 (retail)?

Thanks in advance.
 
First...you don't have to pay anywhere near that price. I bought my set for about 450.

Second, yeah...you will stop a lot better. The brakes will feel much more responsive, you don't have to push the petal as far to the floor as you do with drums.

The interference you get with stock Jeep wheels is the 5 spoke steelies. At least that's what their directions say.

The downside.. Be very VERY careful about the spacer that goes between the retaining plate and the seal. If you do not get it aligned right when you bolt it together the whole thing will wiggle loose and you will have catastrophic failure...thats if you do not die in the crash.

The only other problem I have had is that when the Jeep is cold they are noisy.
 
Thanks. Honestly I'm not thinking of any other method due to the fact I have more money than time and don't want to Fab anything or search for this part or that. I want a "Kit" that is relatively bolt on (as if anything truly is) and is somewhat proven. Hence the desire for reviews.

BTW- I too read their instructions, I really want to hear from someone who has the 10 hole factory aluminum wheels and has installed this kit. Or maybe one of the other factory aluminum wheels by chance (I know the kit is relatively new on the market so this may be asking a lot).

Anyways thanks for the input. Anyone else?
 
if you dont mind sourcing your own parts/saving some money, you could go with the crown vic setup. ive done it on two d44s so far so good

http://www.jeepin.com/features/cvdiscs/

its not bolt on, but you could do this on two dana44's for the cost of the teraflex kit (i dont care HOW cheap it was when you bought it)
 
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BTW- I too read their instructions, I really want to hear from someone who has the 10 hole factory aluminum wheels and has installed this kit. Or maybe one of the other factory aluminum wheels by chance (I know the kit is relatively new on the market so this may be asking a lot). Anyways thanks for the input. Anyone else?

I have the Teraflex kit on my MJ, been running it for three years now with zero problems. I can tell you about one XJ/MJ one wheel that WILL rub the calipers, it's the Canyons. The Ravine wheels (shown below) do not have this problem. I like the Ravines better anyhow. :laugh:

sunvisor.jpg
 
Wow! That's got to be the cleanest MJ I've ever seen (except for when they were new of coarse).

Which wheels are the Canyons? I have the ten hole old version (stock 91 - 93?) and really like the look and would rather not change. It sounds like there won't be any fitment problems.
 
Canyons below. Sounds like you have the Gambler wheels. Pretty sure you can grind enough off the calipers for clearance if necessary. The Ravines don't need any grinding.

gsa-side.jpg
 
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I'll xWhatever that - that is a real slick looking ride.
Nothing to contribute to the OP's question, other than "If I had the cash, it would be done already". Go discs. Better performance all the way around. You'll never regret upgrading technology on these things.
 
The downside.. Be very VERY careful about the spacer that goes between the retaining plate and the seal. If you do not get it aligned right when you bolt it together the whole thing will wiggle loose and you will have catastrophic failure...thats if you do not die in the crash.

care to go into this a little further? how is the spacer going to loosten up? do you mean that the spacer can become offset, loosening the backing plates, and the t-bolts shearing off? is this a reason to use a re-drilled rubicon backing plate instead?
 
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