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POLAR_JEEP_04
September 10th, 2006, 20:26
i have a 95 with the 4.0L with a few mods and im looking to cam it but dont know what to look for i want power gain but still be able to drive the jeep every day to and from work any help will be great thanks :repair:

5-90
September 10th, 2006, 21:41
Research for my book turned up some sixty-odd cams that would work with the AMC242 engine - some compatible with FI, some not, some compatible with electronic engine control, some not - I could be more specific if you would be first... Any performance question really does require more detailed information - what you want to accomplish, how you want to get there, how much you'd care to spend, ...

If you haven't done so already, perhaps you should really do a "clean sheet of paper" job to see what you've got in mind, what you are trying to do, what you really want - and what you'd be willing to accept, and work out a budget. Granted, a cam change is going to be a fairly cheap mod, and it can complement other mods well, but it's something that should be taken as a part of the "big picture..."

5-90

j99xj
September 10th, 2006, 22:32
I think the stock cam is fine to be quite honest with ya.

But if your going to the trouble of changing cams you might as well rebuild the engine, or better yet get some stroker parts and build a beast.

Dr. Dyno
September 11th, 2006, 08:20
I think the stock cam is fine to be quite honest with ya.

But if your going to the trouble of changing cams you might as well rebuild the engine, or better yet get some stroker parts and build a beast.

You have to remove the head plus everything in front of the timing set to change the cam so it's no easy exercise. The stock HO cam is pretty decent but if you're looking for more low/medium rev torque, the Crane 750501 is the one to go for.
Like Jon said, you'll have to decide how much power you want, where you want the engine to make the most torque, and how much you're willing to spend to get there.

tealcherokee
September 11th, 2006, 09:10
there are only 4 or 5 cams that work great with the I6

i bought the crane 262/272 or whatever it is, and i wish i didnt.

mopar performance 240/240 isnt a bad choice

clifford makes a 240/240 264/264 and a 280/280 i beleive. when i pull my head to swap on the new one, ill be ordering one of the cliffords.

MudDawg
September 11th, 2006, 10:00
If you buy the Clifford cam..be sure to make them understand that you want it packed well enough so it isn't sticking naked out of the cardboard box they sent it in....like my last one from them was:twak:

tealcherokee
September 11th, 2006, 10:59
If you buy the Clifford cam..be sure to make them understand that you want it packed well enough so it isn't sticking naked out of the cardboard box they sent it in....like my last one from them was:twak:

noted! :)

Dr. Dyno
September 12th, 2006, 01:33
there are only 4 or 5 cams that work great with the I6

i bought the crane 260/272 or whatever it is, and i wish i didnt.

That cam is great for a 4.6 stroker but it's perhaps a little too big for a 4.0 unless it's built to breathe well at 5000+rpm. That's why I recommend the smaller Crane for a 4.0.

XJoshua
September 12th, 2006, 06:12
Sorry to hyjack the post. but whats the lift sizes on the Renix camshaft, and the lift on the HiOutput camshaft. Also are they compatable with eachother?

Dr. Dyno
September 12th, 2006, 08:41
Renix camshaft and '91-'95 HO camshaft are one and the same. Duration is 197*@0.050" intake and exhaust, valve lift is 0.424" intake and exhaust, lobe separation angle 112*.

j99xj
September 12th, 2006, 11:48
Another idea is that you could swap in a 96+ cam into your engine. That would accomplish the same thing as the Crane 750501 (move the powerband down) for less money. The 96+ has lower duration lobes, a smaller intake centerline, and lower overlap. This 96+ cam will increase low end without giving up high end, (in 96 the hp output was still 190).

Since the 96+ is a "stock" cam it should work perfectly fine with a stock valvetrain.

tealcherokee
September 12th, 2006, 16:32
That cam is great for a 4.6 stroker but it's perhaps a little too big for a 4.0 unless it's built to breathe well at 5000+rpm. That's why I recommend the smaller Crane for a 4.0.

i am runnin it in a stroker. and i cant wait to pull it out for a 264 or 272 clifford

GreenbeltXJ
September 12th, 2006, 18:07
why hasn't anybody said any thing about the comp cam? i just installed the comp cam, lifters, springs, and new gears/chain. i havn't dropped the motor in yet so i don't know how much of a differnce there is. i also had some head work and an complete overhaul done.

Gil BullyKatz
September 12th, 2006, 18:28
why hasn't anybody said any thing about the comp cam? i just installed the comp cam, lifters, springs, and new gears/chain. i havn't dropped the motor in yet so i don't know how much of a differnce there is. i also had some head work and an complete overhaul done.

I'm in the same boat...

This is the cam I used for my 4.7 stroker in progress...

Comp Cam Camshaft: (Intake/Exhaust) 254°/262° adv. dur., 210°/218° dur. @ .050" lift, .477"/.493" valve lift, 1000-5200rpm, 111° lobe separation

Mechanic_Dave
September 12th, 2006, 22:01
I sold performance autoparts for a while. Here is some stuff to help you. Unless you are changing lots of other things, you are limited to a step or two up. Your gains will be mild. The thing to remember is in order to have it run nice, everything has to be lined up just right. If your manifold power comes on at (example) 1200-1800 rpm, then you want your cam coming in around the same (give or take) and you want your automatic (if 5speed worry not) kicking in at that as well or you be lacking the power that you should have (like popping the clutch to soon or to late).
Another note. There are only 2 manufatures of lifters, everybody else sells them under their names. There are only 2 or 3 manufatures of cam blanks. Everybody just grinds their own recipe. And if you are really lost, talk to your suppliers. Find out whats easier to get, what people have been happy with. And having ordered a Jeep cam or two in for people.. prepare to wait. I had one customer wait 2 - 3 months for a 4.2 AMC cam.
Good luck

Dr. Dyno
September 13th, 2006, 06:34
i am runnin it in a stroker. and i cant wait to pull it out for a 264 or 272 clifford

I'm surprised you don't like the Crane 753905 (260/272) cam in your stroker. I have the same cam in mine and I love it.

tealcherokee
September 13th, 2006, 20:53
I'm surprised you don't like the Crane 753905 (260/272) cam in your stroker. I have the same cam in mine and I love it.

i dont hate it. i just know after researching it more, a single duration cam is going to work better.

Bouncy
September 14th, 2006, 09:32
Anyone look at compcams
800 to 4800 68-232-4 X4250H-13 Adv Dur 250 256 @.050 206 212 Valve lift 1.6 ratio.460 .476 Lobe Sep. 113º

My machine shop recommended this cam given the flow numbers from my ported head. Also matched up the 1.93 intake and 1.50 exhaust valves for the job.

Everything I can put together, it seems like a good matchup for HP and TQ for a 4.7 stroker.

Any opinions??

Dr. Dyno
September 14th, 2006, 10:24
Anyone look at compcams
800 to 4800 68-232-4 X4250H-13 Adv Dur 250 256 @.050 206 212 Valve lift 1.6 ratio.460 .476 Lobe Sep. 113º

My machine shop recommended this cam given the flow numbers from my ported head. Also matched up the 1.93 intake and 1.50 exhaust valves for the job.

Everything I can put together, it seems like a good matchup for HP and TQ for a 4.7 stroker.

Any opinions??

That's the perfect cam for a supercharged application. Even if you keep the engine naturally-aspirated, it should provide good low rev torque and a smooth idle.

i dont hate it. i just know after researching it more, a single duration cam is going to work better.

I don't know what you were researching but you're mistaken. :) A dual pattern cam with a longer exhaust duration is exactly what you need in a 4.0 or stroker 'cause the cylinder head port flow on the exhaust side is less than 70% of the intake port flow.
I can tell you that my Crane cam works beautifully with strong torque from idle to redline. What more could you want?

Bouncy
September 14th, 2006, 10:33
Not running a supercharger. Just a fully ported head and 4.7 stroker. 9.5cr.

Not trying to reinvent the wheel, just take advantage of everything I can with the motor.

tealcherokee
September 14th, 2006, 21:16
That's the perfect cam for a supercharged application. Even if you keep the engine naturally-aspirated, it should provide good low rev torque and a smooth idle.



I don't know what you were researching but you're mistaken. :) A dual pattern cam with a longer exhaust duration is exactly what you need in a 4.0 or stroker 'cause the cylinder head port flow on the exhaust side is less than 70% of the intake port flow.
I can tell you that my Crane cam works beautifully with strong torque from idle to redline. What more could you want?

well the guys at clifford sent me some stuff, and i found it pretty intersting, give them a call, they love to talk about stright 6's

brent
September 15th, 2006, 19:34
I ran the hesco rvob for about 2 weeks after the stroker, hated the thing, wouldn't idle worth a crap, it had diffrent lift / duration for exhaust/intake, I changed the rockers to rollers, still didn't like the cam, then changed the valve springs and went with the clifford 264/264, idle is smooth as stock with the same mid and top end and better bottom, than the rvob. so I sold the rvob on ebay for $10

tealcherokee
September 15th, 2006, 21:16
single duration is better for the straight 6, hands down. high lift also is a plus.

Dr. Dyno
September 16th, 2006, 04:38
I ran the hesco rvob for about 2 weeks after the stroker, hated the thing, wouldn't idle worth a crap, it had diffrent lift / duration for exhaust/intake, I changed the rockers to rollers, still didn't like the cam, then changed the valve springs and went with the clifford 264/264, idle is smooth as stock with the same mid and top end and better bottom, than the rvob. so I sold the rvob on ebay for $10

The Hesco RVOB is a single pattern cam with a duration of 214* @ 0.050" intake and exhaust, valve lift 0.470" intake and exhaust, and a LSA of 110*. The reason for the lopey idle is the narrower LSA which produces a greater amount of valve overlap, and the intake duration is comparatively long.
My Crane 753905 is a dual pattern cam with a 112* LSA and the idle quality is the same as stock in a stroker. Bottom end and top end are strong, midrange is sensational.

j99xj
September 16th, 2006, 09:07
The Hesco RVOB is a single pattern cam with a duration of 214* @ 0.050" intake and exhaust, valve lift 0.470" intake and exhaust, and a LSA of 110*. The reason for the lopey idle is the narrower LSA which produces a greater amount of valve overlap, and the intake duration is comparatively long.
My Crane 753905 is a dual pattern cam with a 112* LSA and the idle quality is the same as stock in a stroker. Bottom end and top end are strong, midrange is sensational.

Interesting. But how did Jeep engineers manage to make the 96+ engines idle smooth with an LSA of 107.5 degrees?

It would seem that a 107.5 degree LSA would be far too tight to run on a vehicle that needs a smooth idle with lots of intake vacuum.

Perhaps they had supercomputers run a fluid dynamics model with many differential equations to get the numbers they wanted.

Well whatever they did, they did good on the 96+ engines. It's almost a miracle that they could lower the torque peak by 1000 rpm without affecting the top end horsepower number of 190 with only tweaking the cam settings.

Dr. Dyno
September 17th, 2006, 04:55
I agree that the '96+ OEM cam is a pretty good unit and the main reason for the smooth idle is the short duration (188* intake/192* exhaust @ 0.050") and the short valve overlap despite the 107* LSA. As you can see, it's a dual pattern cam with a longer exhaust duration. Its only downside is the modest valve lift (0.408" intake/0.414" exhaust), but that's nothing a set of 1.7 ratio roller rockers couldn't fix.