D30 help?

So I just got a new D30 and 8.8 (link to the sale thread) to put under the Jeep.

The PO had the D30 set up for RAM assist, raised the trac bar, and drilled the knuckles out to 5/8". Now I need to get it ready to go under mine and need to address these changes.

Trac bar isn't a big deal, he sent it with the axle (but it has heims, any problems running those on DD)
So I still need to get the draglink/tie-rod figured out. Since I DD my Jeep I'd like to stay away from heims (other than that TB if its ok) because of DD wear n tear. I have looked into the GoFerit inserts (require drilling out to 3/4" tho), but am wondering if there are any other ideas out there.
I don't mind paying the price for quality if one style stands out as the best (IE. JCR 1ton OTK, TNT etc) Worst case I could just swap my knuckles onto the new axle... or spend some more money and source the WJ parts (probably not, $$)


The 8.8 I could bolt in but would like to clean up, weld tubes, and maybe truss before I put it in. I have to cut the blocks off the leaf mounts (don't want 1 1/2" of block lift), other than that it will bolt up. Any other thoughts on mods before I toss it under? Oh, it has Full Detroit, 4.10 and discs.

thanks for any and all help.

Well after more searching and reading I am seeing that since the knuckles are already drilled to 5/8" I could just ream them now to accept 1ton tie rods, aka the JCR kit.
It seems people are concerned with the 'dead spot' this steering may cause. I was wondering if there is a possible simple solution.
Many Trac Bars have the slight bend near the top and bottom.
What about using a bar with either a bend at the top and/or bottom for the draglink, to put the rod ends near parallel with the pitman arm & tie rod? Atleast a bend at the top would also lesson the angle at the pitman arm during droop.

I figure I'll be going the JCR route anyway, but any thought on this solution to rid the dead spot?, or just help the angles?

I dont' have a problem with the dead spot....don't notice. I haven't had a problem running heim steering DD either...although it's less than ideal, and I don't put tons of miles on (live close to work and use a company vehicle a lot).

The bend in the tracbar isn't going to do anything to get it parallel. The parallel-ness has to come from the mounting locations. You can twist the tracbar or draglink into a pretzel shape and have them look 'parallel' but unless a line between the pitman arm and where the draglink mounts and the tracbar mounts are close to parallel, you're SOL. The angles at the end just help with clearance.

well cancel all that.
just tore into the D30 axle and its a little worse for the wear.
one LCA mount is bent towards the pumpkin, then skidded anyway. the UCA bushings are done, and the welded on steering work is not exactly what I want on a DD ride.

so new questions
1) the ball joints on this new axle have recently been replaced, where as mine are stock, and popping real bad last few weeks. Is it feasible to take the newer ones off this axle and put them on mine? Or am I better off just getting new ones?

2) the gears (4.10) were just installed Feb 08, can they be transferred over to a buddy's D30 (its HP also) or would they cause more problems than good? Yes they would need to be set up, but still cheaper than buying new ones.

I'll keep the knuckles and calipers but I think the axle itself is gonna get scrapped.

3) how do I take the C clips out of an 8.8 with a full Detroit locker? I wanted to pull the shafts if I could, and bring the axle to a buddies and weld the tubes.
answered:
I need to knock out the cross shaft, pull the clips and then the axles will come out.
also have to pull the bearing cap off the pass. side to get the shaft out. put cap back on same way it came off, torque to 85ft/lbs