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View Full Version : my '91->'99 powertrain swap


ehall
September 14th, 2008, 11:49
My old beater with 338k miles on it is tired and has a few problems, so rather than try to fix it I have decided to replace the whole powertrain. A local reclamation house is clearing out old inventory, so I picked up a '99 engine with 51k miles for $500 and a '94 AW4 with 71k for $200. I'm also going to replace my 231 with a 242 and add an HD chain and Tom Woods SYE, but I have not decided whether to rebuild one myself (about $900 in parts) or buy one custom made from drivetrain.com (about $1500 shipped).

The transfer case and tranny will drop in with no mods required, but the engine will need some effort to retrofit into my '91, and I need somebody to check my plans. I am trying to split this into MUST versus SHOULD categories so I can keep initial costs down--I can do more work later, but some things have to be done before installation can be completed, while some things have high penalty for later replacement so they are essentially MUST items.

Some of the things that MUST be done are dictated by engine differences. For example, the '99 sensors are incompatible with the '91 computer, and most of my old ones are nasty, so those really must be replaced. Likewise the '99 injectors and fuel rail are incompatible, and my old ones are nasty, so those must be replaced too (any recommended replacements appreciated too). Internal cooling parts like water pump and thermostat are mandatory, and of course there are obvious things likd filters, fluids, spark plugs, etc. I do not know of any other parts that must be replaced for the swap to work, so if anybody knows of anything I'm missing here please advise.

Some of things that SHOULD be done and have a high penalty for deferment are motor mounts and brackets, oil pan gasket, rear main seals, timing chain, and the exhaust headers (the intake will be mostly disassembled for fuel rail and engine swap anyway). I am thinking that it would be beneficial to reset the clock on these items by doing the replacement now, and it will be cheaper and easier to do it now instead of later, but I need to keep costs down. Which of these are most important?

Some of these things also have cross dependencies... The timing chain gasket pretty much goes with the oil pan gasket if I understand correctly, so doing one means go ahead and do the other. If I replace the exhaust headers now, I should also replace the rest of the exhaust or else I will need to bridge from 2.5" outlet to 2.25" inlet, plus I will gain nothing from the higher flow if I keep the old cat and muffler. Likewise, the higher flow through the new manifolds will not be utilized with the stock airbox and throttle body, so those should also be replaced quickly too. On the other hand, I can do that stuff later easily enough, I do not NEED the improved performance to complete the engine swap, and I do need to keep the initial costs down. Same thing, it would be easier to replace the battery, alternator, starter, and associated wiring now, but I can do that later too, and there are not even any other major dependencies.

Any advice here appreciated. Motor is coming in Tuesday (I think) and I will not do anything until I can get a real close look at it.

madmax
September 14th, 2008, 13:21
I swap a 99 in to a 92. it was pretty straight forward. I stripped everything off the 99. basically a long block. none of the confections where the same. I put everything on from the 92 and shoe horned her in. it was a 3 day job by myself. nothing was easy about pulling the motor out of the 92. I had to cut or snap alot of bolts. its almost a year later and shes running strong

ehall
September 14th, 2008, 13:33
Were there any surprises I should know about? Is there anything you didn't do that you now wish you'd done while it was off?

madmax
September 14th, 2008, 16:42
not really. i did all the swaping while the motor was out

dinorl007
September 14th, 2008, 18:27
if u have not pulled out the old motor and tranny yet, when u do you can pull it all as one piece, u will have to hook the lifting chain in the back of the block, when u remove the radiator, u can lay the ac condensor to the battery side and leave the compressor and lines hooked up, r u sure u will need a rear main sela? at 51000 i hope not, if u do replace it u dont have to replace the timing cover gasket unlessu want to, then u would have to reamove the dampner, i would use the intake and all the brackets that are on the 91 that way all the connectors will work, pay attention to the puleys and how the serpentine belt is layed out, when i swapped my 94 with a 96 i didnt when i did my swap and had to put the 94 brackets back on, would have been easier wtih the engine on the floor, if u r wanting to use the 99 intake u can search on here tosee waht u will need to do good luck

dinorl007
September 14th, 2008, 18:31
just remembered something else, if the starter and alternator are good i wouldnt replace them, save the money

ehall
September 15th, 2008, 18:13
The engine came into the shop today and I got a closer look at it. The headers don't appear to be cracked so I can safely defer that, although I might be able to squeeze it into the budget. There's no oil pooled up around the spark plugs so that's good. The thing has oil and is brown with a hint of gold so nothing bad there. Some of the bolts around the head are already corroding on the thing, which bothers me a little.

A couple of questions

Has anybody successfully retrofitted the old-style power steering pump with the integrated tensioner onto the 99+ intake manifold? The bolt holes are different, but it looks like it could be made to work with a piece of small plate. The engine has the new style bracket and tensioner on it, but I am hoping to be able to mount OBA in the lower area (that's where the WJ and TJ have the A/C compressor so I am kind of hoping that I can just use that bracket for an OBA pump) and the big-ass tensioner bracket is in the way. It looks like the holes are more or less right pattern, but about an inch further away from the engine. If I keep the new-style bracket, I will have to buy another steering pump (not a big deal)--will the old pulley work with the new pump?

The mechanic is going to replace the rear main seal and oil pan gasket, and wants to go ahead and do the front seal too. I think this is part of the timing cover gasket kit (Fel-Pro TCS45458)? He's also going to inspect the timing chain and oil pump, but I'm wondering if anybody thinks it would be smart to replace those with better parts while we're in there. Any specific recommendations on parts?

He also said that he thinks we can adapt the block drain plug for use with the temperature gauge sender. Has anybody done this? I'm a little bit worried that the coolant won't circulate there very well producing unreliable readings. If it worked it'd be a lot easier than running the sender all the way up to the thermostat housing or tapping the lower radiator hose.

Thanks

ehall
September 18th, 2008, 20:49
Just to wrap this thread up, and for future reference.

I am deferring the 242 build-up, since I would need a new rear driveshaft for that, and would need to buy another one or modify this one when I swap axles. I am also deferring the belt routing stuff since it looks like I will have to go to a full PowerTech bracket design with an extra bracket for A/C, and I don't have the budget or time for all that. So basically I am going to have the '96+ belt layout, with '91 sensors and injectors and all that. I have to go buy a '96+ power steering pump and bracket but everything else is bolt-on from my old engine.

The oil pan was off today for the front and rear seals. The pan was clean, the timing chain felt good, the oil pump looked good, so I don't need to replace either of those. It looks like the PO was good about changing the oil regularly.

I decided to go ahead and do the headers. I got the Thorley 634 ceramic coated headers for right around $500, but it looks like they will not get here for a week or two. Lots of ZJ guys uses these and swear by them, and the inside-and-out ceramic coating will keep them from cracking if anything does.

I'm replacing the throttle body with a 63mm unit from Leigh (http://www.strokedjeep.com/tbody.html), since the '99 TB is unusable, and the one on my beater is nasty. I think I wrote about this before, but the last time I replaced the TPS one of the screws wouldn't come out. I put it in the vice and everything, and the screw would not come out. I ended up getting the sawzall and cutting the TPS off, then lopping off the top of the screw, just so I could replace the sensor. So... new TB time, that's for sure.

The guys at Fiveomotorsport said the solid yellow FMC injectors had the best sprayso that's what I bought. link (http://www.fiveomotorsport.com/Injector_SetsJEEP.asp)

http://www.fiveomotorsport.com/PartsJPEGs/Injectors/0280155710_6.jpg

I also ordered Accel plug wires, cap and rotor, coil, etc., but keeping the good old Champion truck plugs.

Parts are coming in and going on, but it will be a couple of weeks before the headers get here.