manual switch

has anyone put a manual xj tranny in an old automatic. if so how hard is it? are manuals cheaper than autos. what about rebuilts.

boatdude13 said:

has anyone put a manual xj tranny in an old automatic. if so how hard is it? are manuals cheaper than autos. what about rebuilts.

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Pretty open-ended question...

DONOR PARTS - You will need to get the transmission, trasfer case (if the spline count is different - the AW4 went 23-spline around 1990. The BA-10 manual is a 21-spline, and the AX-15 is a 23-spline, used from AUG1989 forward,) clutch hydraulics, clutch pedal, and associated parts. The NSS will have to be deleted, the wiring for the starter engage circuit will be jumpered (make the circuit think you're constantly in Park or Neutral,) and the reverse lamp wiring will have to be patched into the reverse lamp switch on the manual. You can patch the clutch pedal switch into the NSS, but it's easier to just remember what you're doing when you start the vehicle (since it's less initial work, and quickly becomes habit.) You'll also need the flywheel from the manual transmission donor (compatible with your control system - 1987-1990 and 1991-2001 are the brackets here,) but you can get that as a reman from the parts house where you get your clutch. You will need longer screws to attach the flywheel to the crankshaft, but I don't know the length offhand (haven't had to source replacements yet. Get them from the dealer - they're "place bolts", and shouldn't be replaced with conventional hex heads. Socket heads are a "maybe" at best - the head design is different.)

You will probably need to relocate the crossmember holding the transmission mount - there are already holes in the framerails to make this happen. But, the threaded inserts are probably rusted out (mine were - BA-10/5 to AX-15 conversion,) so you may have to cut access holes in the side of the framerails to put nuts and washers in there.

ELECTRONICS - What year is your rig? Consider this point important.

EXPENSE - Hard tellin' which is cheaper. If you don't go driving around like the chariot race in Ben Hur, you can get a clutch to last a good long while - and that's the expensive bit for maintenance. If you avoid the "internal" slave cylinder (a patently stupid idea, IMO,) you can reduce the cost of your clutch kits significantly. However, you're going to have to buy new hydraulics either way for the swap - and they're not hugely cheap. You pay more up front, but you can save later. If you drive around slipping the clutch all the time or just being silly, it's going to get expensive (I knew a guy who had to replace his clutch and flywheel every 50Kmiles or so. I had to reteach him how to drive manual, and he quit going through so much - but it did take some pain on his part. I had to resort to using the last foot and a half of a fishing rod to make the lessons stick...)

REBUILD/OVERHAUL - Depends. Autos have plenty of friction, o-rings, and gaskets in them - but the AW4 can be overhauled using only hand tools. You do need some specialty tools - but nothing that can't be had or made A "basic" kit (seals only) runs ~$100, no bearings or friction. Adding either or both drives up the cost of the kit - and there is also torque converter replacement/upgrade (if needed,) valve body replacement/upgrade (if needed,) ... Fortunately, neither is usually required on the AW4 - and it's a fairly common slushbox (being a Toyota 'box, and used in Toyota and Lexus as well.) Overhaul kits for manuals are usually cheaper (a handful of gaskets, and bearings,) but a press can be required (and you can't fake a press with a throat that large, a shop vice won't do.) Also, synchro rings (they tend to wear first) can get spendy for some manuals - but the AX-15 was also used by Chrysler and Toyota, and 2WD/4WD internals are the same either way (except for the mainshaft.)

Sorry I can't give you a better answer, but you really asked an open-ended question, and didn't give much information (which is needed to formulate a reply...)

actually that was a fantastic answer and really helped me alot. ive been looking into replacing my auto and love stick and i thought now would be the perfect time. i guess it involves quite a bit more work than anticipated.

boatdude13 said:

actually that was a fantastic answer and really helped me alot. ive been looking into replacing my auto and love stick and i thought now would be the perfect time. i guess it involves quite a bit more work than anticipated.

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These things usually do. You shouldn't have to do anything major to the firewall proper - but you are in for a fair bit of work.

Not that I can blame you for thinking about it - I learned to drive stick on a tractor (when I was about eight - had to start somewhere,) learned to drive stick in a truck to get my DL, and I still prefer driving a stick over an auto.

But, you may find it easier to just buy a vehicle with a manual already in place.

I could have condensed the answer somewhat had you given with some more information, but I'm glad it helped (even if it did read like a novella...)

every thread i read, I'm always looking for the radiant blue bunny, because I love to read replies like this one, good on ya 5-90.

ps, I love my new elec cables!

If looking to do a lot of offing you may want to look at a trany with a first gear deeper then 4 to 1. A good link to most trany used by Jeep and there gearing is below.
http://www.jeeptech.com/trans/ax15.html

avnsteve said:

every thread i read, I'm always looking for the radiant blue bunny, because I love to read replies like this one, good on ya 5-90.

ps, I love my new elec cables!

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Glad to hear - nice to know my work is appreciated (in both senses...)

Oh - and don't call Max a "bunny" to his face. That could get ya hurt twak: :twak: :twak: and don't key on him anyhow - I tend to change avatars fairly often to keep something fresh up. It's about time for me to do so again, in fact...)

I always did enjoy Sam & Max, tho...