D44 Aussie Locker install ?

I finally have an excuse to put my locker in. The diff cover gasket is leaking.

So my question after some searching is, on my rear D44 out of a 87 cherokee, will I have to remove the carrier to install??

Yes i have searched, but if i over looked a thread you know of please piont me in the diection of it.

Thanks much!!

Josh

nope..you dont have to pull the carrier to do the install. but ive done 7-8 aussie installs and i always pull the carrier reguardless. its only 4 bolts that hold the carrier in after pulling the shafts, and it makes the install much faster. getting the carrier out, and installing the locker on a work bench easily cuts the time in half

wishihad1 said:

nope..you dont have to pull the carrier to do the install. but ive done 7-8 aussie installs and i always pull the carrier reguardless. its only 4 bolts that hold the carrier in after pulling the shafts, and it makes the install much faster. getting the carrier out, and installing the locker on a work bench easily cuts the time in half

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Yeah,right??I can R&R my No-slip in 15 minutes(on a c-clip axle).You cant even set the BL in twice that amount of time.
To pull the carrier means pulling the axles,MAJOR time plus los of extra parts!

On a D44 Wouldent you need a case splitter to get it out?

Is there a write up any where on how to do this specifically for a xj D44???
Or will the one for the TTB D44 on aussie website work??

Josh

whats this backlash mess your talking about. were talking about a lunchbox locker here...not a full carrier replacing locker. no need to reset the ring and pinion. and yes..with a c-clip rear you have to install the locker in the housing. but with a dana 44 its easier to pull it

Okay. So i have to pull the carrier. that is fine. now I am curious to know... do i have to reset gears or anything of the sort when i go to put the carrier back in?

Sorry for the UUBer newb questions but it is my DD and I want to do it right the first time!!

I usually have my dad help me with these things but he has been out of town lately and would really love to learn the inners and outers of axles and such.

Thanks for all of the help and replies. :: Rocks!!

Josh

no problem...weve all asked the same questions at some point

start by pulling the diff cover and letting the oil drain out. then go over to the shafts, and begin work on them. pull each shaft out a couple inches just so its no longer engaged with the carrier. now when your looking at the carrier youll see 4 bolts which bolt the bearing caps down. remove these 4 bolts. after removing them the caps could fall off, or they might need a little wiggling.

now to pulling the carrier. every carrier is different. some fall out as soon as you pull the bearing caps off, and others take a bit more persuasion. but ive done plenty and never needed a case spreader.

now that the carrier is out, pop out the spider gears, and begin to install the aussie

there is NOTHING you have to do with setting up the gears again. just when you pull the bearing caps, and stuff like that mark everything and put it back correctly. left right, top bottom...etc

its all easy once you get in there

http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/axle/lr00a/
this link should help you...its for a dana 30 but the process is similar minus hubs.

wishihad1 said:

no problem...weve all asked the same questions at some point

start by pulling the diff cover and letting the oil drain out. then go over to the shafts, and begin work on them. pull each shaft out a couple inches just so its no longer engaged with the carrier. now when your looking at the carrier youll see 4 bolts which bolt the bearing caps down. remove these 4 bolts. after removing them the caps could fall off, or they might need a little wiggling.

now to pulling the carrier. every carrier is different. some fall out as soon as you pull the bearing caps off, and others take a bit more persuasion. but ive done plenty and never needed a case spreader.

now that the carrier is out, pop out the spider gears, and begin to install the aussie

there is NOTHING you have to do with setting up the gears again. just when you pull the bearing caps, and stuff like that mark everything and put it back correctly. left right, top bottom...etc

its all easy once you get in there

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All of that is a total waste of time,for what?
Just pull the cover and the spiders and be done with it!
Kinda defeats the purpose of a "lunch-time" locker!
Also good luck re-sealing a used set of 44 bearings/seals!Not to mention having to tear the brakes down also!

RCP Phx said:

All of that is a total waste of time,for what?
Just pull the cover and the spiders and be done with it!
Kinda defeats the purpose of a "lunch-time" locker!
Also good luck re-sealing a used set of 44 bearings/seals!Not to mention having to tear the brakes down also!

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I am sorry but are you retarded? How are you going to pull the pin if the ring gear is in the way? Why do you have to tear down the breaks? You dont




Here is the CORRECT WAY
Pull cover and let oil drain
Loosen and remove the 4 bolts connecting the retaining plate to the dana 44 housing where the brake backing plate is. (NO need to break down the brakes)
Pull the shafts to be clear of the carrier.
Loosen and remove the carrier bearing cap bolts and remember which side they came from because it does matter.
Pry the carrier out or it may just fall out. Be careful and do not smoosh your hand lol.
Mark the location of the ring gear on the carrier so you know where it is sitting so you can put it back exactly where it was when the gears were set. (in case of any lateral runout the gears may have)
Remove ring gear and remove the cross pin to get the spider and side gears out. Then follow aussies instructions. I used grease to help things stick together better in there when installing it.
Then do the reverse.

Scrape old RTV off the diff cover and housing and reapply a nice bead.

I can also confirm that you can in fact pull the shafts on an XJ44 without having to dismantle the brakes. I set all the brake stuff onto the backing plates while they were in my basement, then went out and put it on, slid the shaft in, and tightened up the retaining plate. I did it all again later on to replace the bearings later on.

i think weve prooven our point here...RCP phx....give it up

no need to pull apart the brakes to pull the shafts. your clearly retarted by your bearing/seal statement. and its 100 percent impossible to install a lunch box locker without pulling the shafts a little bit. i think its clear your talking out of your A$$ when you say you can install a locker in 15 mins because you evidently dont know how

You guys are right,I stand corrected.Its been awhile since I did my 44,its a snap on my 8.25".

to remove the shafts from a d44, without pulling the breaks like a n00b, you need a 9/16ths deep socket (for re-installation, you need to cram a peice of plastic in the socket, to make it hold the bolt right, if you drop one of the 4, you must grab a magnet, or start over, its a bitch to get the loose bolt outta the shoes/misc drum crap. you the stick the socket through the hole in the face of the axle shaft, and spin the shaft to remove all 4...

crown vic discs makes this a lot easier, but i still wouldnt recommend an aussie in the rear of a dd'd xj

xcm said:

to remove the shafts from a d44, without pulling the breaks like a n00b, you need a 9/16ths deep socket (for re-installation, you need to cram a peice of plastic in the socket, to make it hold the bolt right, if you drop one of the 4, you must grab a magnet, or start over, its a bitch to get the loose bolt outta the shoes/misc drum crap. you the stick the socket through the hole in the face of the axle shaft, and spin the shaft to remove all 4...

crown vic discs makes this a lot easier, but i still wouldnt recommend an aussie in the rear of a dd'd xj

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first off ive never had that problem putting the nut on the stud. second why not put an aussie in a dd xj?

Depending on which jeep I feel like driving to work every day, I'm either driving with a rear aussie, or a rear detroit. I wouldn't have it any other way!!