8.25 axle bearings - part II

[mikeny59]

Ready to pull axle shafts, FSM requires special tool(s) that describes installing bearing until face of Miller tool contacts axle tube face, which means that bearing travels deep enough to leave room for 3/8" or so for seal.

Tool w/handle is like $50.00 and three weeks away, I'm thinking cutting a round piece of wood slightly narrower than axle tube, bottoming out bearing (assuming there is a shoulder to stop bearing at correct depth), and popping in the seal.

Sound logical?!?

Thanks,

Mike

[CanMan]

You could remove the seal, and scribe a line around the face of the wheel berring, on the inside of the axle tube, and when you drive the new one in, don't go past it. I haven't done wheel berrings on my Chrysler rearend yet, but there may be a shoulder.

The peice of wood should work. Or a brass or aluminum punch, if needed.

[Runnin'OnEmpty]

Mike, place the bearings in the freezer for about 2 hours before installation. You'll be amazed how easily they will tap in. (The cold shrinks them slightly.)

I'm sure there's a shoulder in the axle tube for the bearing to seat against. It makes no sense from an engineering standpoint for there not to be one.

[mikeny59]

That's a good idea, also made me think about a small inspection mirror or simply running my finger behind the old bearing and possibly feeling a difference in how high the axle tube sits around the bearing circumference, inside vs. out.

Thanks,

Mike

[mikeny59]

You know, I remember as a mechanics' helper (many years ago), the guy I worked for used to hit stubborn spark plugs with a shot of freon from a hose, and that usually coaxed 'em out.

Thanks for jogging my memory,

Mike

[xjtrailrider]

There is a shoulder, just drive the bearings in with a bearing/seal installer. Make sure that the installer presses against the outer race. You can rent this installer at AutoZone on thier lone-a-tool program.

[mikeny59]

Thanks, was hoping there was a shoulder...

Mike

[Runnin'OnEmpty]

Yeah, that trick of freezing the parts works on lots of things, in particular with ball joints. Anything that has a press fit.

Let us know how the job goes.....

[BCParker]

Yeah, that trick of freezing the parts works on lots of things, in particular with ball joints. Anything that has a press fit.

Let us know how the job goes.....

does freezing a ball joint cause it to explode like heating does?

I thought you weren't even supposed to grease them if it was more than a few degrees below freezing.

[CanMan]

does freezing a ball joint cause it to explode like heating does?

I thought you weren't even supposed to grease them if it was more than a few degrees below freezing.

I don't see greese freezing, or a ball joint exploding from being in the freezer for a few hours, or even an extended period of time.

[BCParker]

[FONT=Verdana]I don't see greese freezing, or a ball joint exploding from being in the freezer for a few hours, or even an extended period of time.

not the grease freezing, the warm grease hitting the frozen ball joint can supposedly cause it to crack or shatter.

FSM for my old Chevy Blazer says not to grease ball joints or tierods ends when below freezing.


I don't see a problem with leaving them in the freezer before install (sounds like a good idea actually), but flash freezing them with some kind of aerosol when trying to remove them sounds like it might cause a problem.

I've seen one explode from heating before, was just wondering if anyone had seen one go because of the cold.

-B