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driveshaft ?

K

konoff1998

NAXJA Forum User
Location
ohio
was looking at the drive shaft yesterday and the slip yoke is about half way down the shaft. so i looked into a sye and cv ds well i dont have $400-$525 to spend. local ds place will extend my ds for $200. my question is, is it worth it to have it lenghtened and still have the slip yoke? would it get rid of my wobble?
 
Check threads about using a stock XJ front shaft in the rear. They work great and are way cheaper than either of the options you mentioned. They bring the price to be running a CV shaft in the rear down significantly!!!!

Wobble?? Check the front end?? It should get rid of any driveline vibes you have.
 
mjma said:
Check threads about using a stock XJ front shaft in the rear. They work great and are way cheaper than either of the options you mentioned. They bring the price to be running a CV shaft in the rear down significantly!!!!

Wobble?? Check the front end?? It should get rid of any driveline vibes you have.
Click to expand...
How are you going to get that front shaft to work without an SYE?
 
98 is the late style output shaft/driveshaft. For $200 I don't know if a longer drive shaft will be much help. On the older style you can cut down a shaft from a 70s GM midsize for a cheap fix, but the gurus all say you need an sye for the later rigs & $200 is half the cost of fixing it right. If you have the skills you can cut down a GM shaft & use your original slip yoke since the u joints are the same, so you might give it a try but if you have to pay to have it lengthened I don't think it's worth it.
 
For the guys running front driveshafts to the rear axle, have you had any problems with them failing? If I remember, the torque split front to rear is like 49% front 51% rear, so the max the front driveshaft is designed to see is 49% of the total output of the engine. The rear shaft (when running in 2WD) is designed to take 100% of the torque, and may well see that if you get down on the skinny pedal at a light.

Just a question, as I could use a new rear driveshaft but it's not in the budget until it fails.

Mark
 
I ran a front shaft on mine for several years including after swapping in 1 tons and running 40" tires. I never had a problem. I've wheeled with others with similar experiences.

They do have a smallish tube with thinner walls so they won't take much direct abuse but if you keep them out of the rocks they seem to do fine.
 
jerseyjeep01 said:
Go to the local pick and pull. Grab a front shaft from an auto xj. They charged me $24 for my shaft. Go to www.performanceoffroadcenter.com and purchase there SYE for $170. It will be way worth it I PROMISE!
Click to expand...
HE PROMISES! Thats good enough for me. If you don't need any additional parts that's $6 less than you were thinking of paying for a driveshaft so you should check it out.:yelclap:
 
Assuming this refers to a 1998 as per his handle...

The "wobble" he's refering to is probably the yoke wobbling on the output shaft at low speeds. Kinda annoying, and there are 2 "cures".

One is to remove the DS, pack the yoke full of grease, and put the DS back on. Works until the grease comes out.

Do a SYE conversion. GOJeep has a writeup for using a GM yoke and a XJ front DS that you could try.

The YJ yoke is suposedly longer than the XJ yoke. I have a YJ, I don't see it.
You could lengthen your DS a tad, or even drop the transmission mount (or use the Rusty's dropped cross member) to get more length, but, the yoke will still wobble at slow speeds.
 
Havent had a problem with the front driveshaft in the rear. I'm using a front shaft from a 96 ZJ auto because its a little longer. One from an auto xj will work though. Here a pic of the ZJ front shaft in the rear with the PORC SYE for you.

CIMG0986.jpg
 
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ok i ordered the porc sye last night my question is what else do i need to go pick up in order to make all of this work? i know i need a front drive shaft out of an xj auto right. i see in the pic you have some sort of adapter on the front of the drive shaft what is it?
 
Thats a part of the driveshaft. Your front shaft has one. Its called a double cardan or CV. It allows you to use 3 universal joints on the driveshaft instead of 2. The whole point of the fixed yoke or SYE is to be able to use one of them.
 
Hey I was planning on doing the RE hack and tap and using a front xj shaft. however I have the 5 speed trans on my 98, and have read that even the front shaft from an auto xj is too short. can anyone confirm this? and would the front shaft from a ZJ be long enough? right now I only have a 3" lift but plan on going to 5" asap.
 
Last edited:
chedisme said:
Hey I was planning on doing the RE hack and tap and using a front xj shaft. however I have the 5 speed trans on my 98, and have read that even the front shaft from an auto xj is too short. can anyone confirm this? and would the front shaft from a ZJ be long enough? right now I only have a 3" lift but plan on going to 5" asap.
Click to expand...

best answer is to install the hack and tap and measure. the zj shaft I have is around 34" extended.
 
chedisme said:
Hey I was planning on doing the RE hack and tap and using a front xj shaft. however I have the 5 speed trans on my 98, and have read that even the front shaft from an auto xj is too short. can anyone confirm this? and would the front shaft from a ZJ be long enough? right now I only have a 3" lift but plan on going to 5" asap.
Click to expand...

You can't use a stock front XJ shaft with the Hack-n-tap flange.
 
yea I know that. I need that spicier part to make it compatible. any way my dreams of a eliminated slip yoke are being put on hold as I need an inspection and my check engine light is on and I need an alignment really bad. so the money I was going to spend on the sye and shaft is probably going to be eaten up by that.
 
Great thead. This is going to help out alot.
 
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