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renix distributor install walkthrough

downhillracer

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Chico, Ca
I had a hard time with this job so I wanted to do a walk-through for anybody who might be unfortunate enough to have to pull their dizzy.

For simple replacement:

1. Remove cap.
2. Mark exactly where the rotor is pointing and scribe/mark a line onto the outside ring of the dizzy, and to a point on the engine(this will save you some trouble).
3. Remove the rotor.
4. Remove the dizzy retaining bolt located on the side of the distributor with a 1/2 inch wrench. This bolt also holds on a U shaped clamp so save that. Also unplug the wire connector for the dizzy.
5. Remove the dizzy by turning it as you pull up. The gears are at a slant so you do have to twist for it to release.

For simple install:

1. Put the rotor on the new dizzy.
2. Line the point of the rotor to the mark you made on the block.
3. Position the rotor about 10* off of that mark to compensate for the turning you will do to get the gears to mesh. If the tab on the dizzy is not flush with the block something is wrong. More than likely the shaft for the oil pump is not lined up with the shaft on the dizzy. Using a long handled screwdriver, turn the oil pump shaft to match the shaft on the dizzy. The dizzy should be flush with the block.
4. Install the clamp with the tang pointed down and secure it with the 1/2 inch bolt. ( On my reman dizzy I had to sand down the inside of the tab because the retaining bolt was binding on it.)

Not so simple install:

If you are a tard like me then you would have already pulled the dizzy with no reference marks. This is how to fix that scenario.

1. Find top dead center on the #1 cylinder. There are many ways to do this ( harmonic balancer mark.... which sucks, or the trusty finger in the plug hole) I had my helper put a thumb in the number 1 cyl. spark plug hole and cranked the motor by hand with a breaker bar on the crank pulley. When she felt compression I had her put a long screwdriver in the hole and she told me when the piston was at the top of its climb. I then marked where the breaker bar was. I continued to crank until the piston started its down travel. I then marked where the breaker bar was again. I then reversed the way I was turning the b. bar until it was exactly in the middle of the two previous marks. This process gave me a poor man's tdc.

2. Next I scribed a line from the number 1 terminal on the cap to the metal housing of my new dizzy.

3. Looking towards the motor from the passengers side line the parts up as follows:

Oil pump shaft at 11 o'clock.
Rotor at 4 o'clock.
Number 1 terminal should be at 5 o'clock.

4. Place the dizzy into the block and turn clockwise to engage the gears. The rotor should end up pointing at the 5 o'clock position. The tab on the dizzy should line up withe the threads in the block for the retaining bolt. (if it doesnt work the first time, try fiddling with the position of the rotor and the position of the oil pump shaft.... you will get it if you cuss enought)

5. Place the clamp back on and retaining bolt.

6. Install the cap and you are all done.




Mine didnt work right off the bat. With some helpful advice I moved the dizzy one tooth forward so the rotor was pointing at the very end of the 5 o'clock position and it fired right up. This cured an erratic idle that I had, along with some stumbling and missfire throughout my rpm range. A tale tale sign that the dizzy is almost ko'd is if there is any play in the shaft, which mine had plenty of. Hope this helps!
 
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What kind of play in the shaft is considered bad? The one on my MJ lets you rotate the rotor a few degrees either way after it's installed. Is this OK? Or are we talking side-to-side movement? It also seemed rather sloppy where it engages the oil pump... like the tab didn't fit in the hole quite right, but still could turn it. Is this OK?

Thanks
 
yah i have a little play in my shaft too??? is a little normal? i can move the shaft with the rotor on it side to side changing the position of the rotor a little more than slightly
 
I havent checked this post in a while. The play that I was refering to is side to side play. The rotor being able to turn a little bit isn't a huge issue. This fix came after my oil pump seized causing its shaft to break in to. Im sure the jolt is what cause the damage to my original dizzy.
 
And just *WHY* did you resurrect a 2 year old thread, just to link back to itself?
 
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