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Eliminating the ventilation/vacuum piping?

NXJ

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I noticed a slight oil consumption and found my air filter box probably sucks oil from the tube in front of the valve cover, that drips through the filter element and is dumped down in the wheelwell.

So, I wanna just get rid of all this shit and stick an open cone filter to some 3" exhaust pipe for an intake. But, there's like four (4) different vacuum lines that connects to the filter box - which one can I ditch, and which ones do I have to keep? Can I seal off the foremost rubber grommet hole in the VC?
 
Take off the small vac line at the rear of the valve cover and try to blow through it . If you cant then clean it out with some brake cleaner or carb cleaner and reinstall it . When the CCV gets clogged it will dump oil in your airbox .
 
NXJ said:
Gotcha!

So about the rest of this plumber's nightmare - what can I throw away?
Personaly , I would not through any of it away . If you have a vac leak fix it with new vac line . Did you clean out that small diameter CCV line at the rear of the valve cover ?
 
Not yet, but it's on the list.

So I'd have to drill out fittings for all the vacuum lines in the intake tube that I'm gonna make? Is all of it necessary?
 
Yea I'd say pretty much all of it is. If you take stuff away your either going to have to seal it up pretty good so it doesnt have a vacuum leak anywhere, and if you seal it up your likely to get blowby on your rings from result of no venting of built up gasses inside the motor. The pcv and ccv are designed as kind of a pressure release for the engine, without anyway for little bits of unburnt fuel etc to escape, they will just build up and build pressure, eventually that pressures gotta release. which is where the valves come in, they just suck that gas and any pressure back into the intake to be burned up in the combustion chamber.
 
Since it sounds like you are definately going CAI you will delete warm air diverter for cold starts.
If you don't care about warm up times, and how long it takes to get to operating temps.
Ditch them all.
The only two you may want to consider are the fresh air side of the CCV sys.,
and also the fuel vapor recovery from the charcoal canister.
 
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Just junk that whole mess and install a PCV valve. If you don't have to worry about emissions which I don't that is the easiest way to go and no more problems. I used a PCV out of a chevy truck and a grommet I matched up from napa. Plugged off all the vac lines and got rid of the EGR valve with a plate works fine. I also installed a new free flow cone type filter and made my own duct for the intake side. Works fine with no problems idleing or blowing oil by. I also used the front hole on the valve cover instead of the small one in the rear where the orginal CCV was. You can route your vac line for the PCV valve anywhere you want you have many ports to choose from on the intake side but you definitely need the CCV or some type of PCV or you will have problems.
 
Part #'s for that PCV valve and grommet?

I can't believe how much vacuum shit I have. I even have a canister on the other side of the motor with a pipe that is routed all the way around the motor and into the air filter box. WTF?

I believe the remaining vacuum lines (aside from the fresh air supply for the VC) is EGR and "cold start" related. How to deal with this without just creating a bunch of trouble?
 
That canister is a charcoal filter which is for recovery of fuel vapor from evaporation in the tank. It holds vapor unitl engine vac is present and then sucked into intake.
 
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