What brand and viscosity oil does everybody use?

[bewilderedbeast]

I know it's probably an old topic, but...

Currently my 96 is using Havoline 10W30.

[RichP]

You will find most of us here, well, maybe not most but a large percentage, use synthetic from Mobil, Castrol, royal purple, valvoline, amsoil and a few others I can't remember right now.
Personally I use Mobil-1 10W30 in the engine, Mobil-1 ATF in the transfer case, Mobil-1 gl4 gear oil in the AX15 tranny but am switching to redline, the new Mobil-1 gear oil is GL5 rated which is not good for the AX trannies. I also use Mobil-1 gear oil in my front diff and Drydene w/additive in my 8.25 rear which has an auburn pro limited slip.
As for filters I use Mobil-1, K&N or factory mopar filters, I've had issues with other brands, very few use Fram, too much cardboard inside.

[87manche]

valvoline 10w40
purolater filters(heard they were bought out or design was changing, the few left in the garage might be my last)

[Voluster]

Nothing but pennsoil in all my rigs.

20/50 durring the summer then 10/40 in the winter

[Matthew Currie]

I usually use dino oil. 10W30 in cold weather (Vermont), 15W-40 in summer. The 15-40 stuff is usually diesel rated, and may be found on different shelves. I have never had problems with good parts-store housebrands, such as Auto Value and NAPA, but I'll use whatever is on sale and not total junk. Recently Shell Rotella has been a pretty good buy. I get good filters, and change it with reasonable regularity, and that seems sufficient.

I use Valvoline synthetic oil in my AX-15, but have not had any issues with the fact that it's rated GL-5.

[ren]

Shell Rotella 15-40 and Wix filters. 348,784.9 miles and counting can't be wrong.

[JeepDawg]

Not to sidetrack the thread, but for the newbies...what are the fluids that should be monitoried, aside from the following?

1) Engine
2) Transfer case
3) Transmission
4) Differentials
5) Coolant

Also, with what regularity do you change these fluids?

[5-90]

Engine - Castrol, Valvoline, or Chevron 10W-40 dino every 3K.
Transfer Case - Castrol, Valvoline DexII/III every other year.
Transmission, AW4 - Castrol, Valvoline DexII/III every other year
Transmission, AX-15 - Sta-Lube 80W-90 GL-5 (looking for GL-3) every other year
Differentials - Sta-Lube 75W-140 GL-5 every other year
Coolant - Any "quality" ethylene glycol antifreeze 50/50 with DW or R/O W, flush and change every other year.
Brakes - Castrol LMA DOT3 every other year
Clutch - Castrol LMA DOT3 every other year

All filters WIX.

5-90

[dirtymuddog]

i run castrol syntech, keeps great compression with lucas additive in it. usually run 10w30 in winter, 10w40 in summer. but i think next summer im gonna start runing 15w oil in all my trucks.

[MogifiedXJ]

Shell Rotella 15-40 and Wix filters. 348,784.9 miles and counting can't be wrong.

x2

The wix filters are a good product and I run the rotella in my diesel. I would recommend both of them. I run mobile-1 synthietic 5w30 in my yota and really like it.

My father runs shaffer in his work trucks. It's a green paraffin wax based oil that was designed for use in heavy industry...Anybody ever heard of it or had any experiences with it???

[jeepsrock]

Castrol GTX dino oil 10w30..on my 94 xj 120k miles.

pete

[XgeekstarX]

mobil 1 10w30 or syntec 10w30 with a motorcraft filter

[Big Red]

i run castrol syntech, keeps great compression with lucas additive in it. usually run 10w30 in winter, 10w40 in summer. but i think next summer im gonna start runing 15w oil in all my trucks.

You beat me to it. Last weekend I changed all my fluids in my 98' 4.0L, AX15, NP231 with Red Line and love it. I used Red Line in everything but the engine where I used 5 quarts of Castrol GTX with 1 quart of Lucas and love how my oil pressure is staying up even at idle. I'm a believer. I added a little Lucas additive in with the Red Line gear oil as well.

Since you change the diffs, tranny fluid, and t-case fluid every other year, why not get the good stuff? It gives good peace of mind and is better to spend a little more on the good stuff than neglect lube and needing a new drivetrain part.

MT-90 75W90 Red Line in the AX15 3.3 Quarts

Red Line Dex 2/3 in the t-case a little over 1 Quart

75W90 Red Line diff fluid --about 1.5-2 Quarts in each diff (a little Lucas additive).

5 Quarts of Dino 10W30 (usually Quaker State SUV/High Mileage or Castrol GTX (I get at Sam's Club for less than $2/qt) and 1 quart of Lucas additive motor oil.

I use oil Fram filters with a oil magnet on the outside, I got this at Harbor Freight online (oil magnet-filters up to 2 Microns of metal particles I believe).

K&N cone filter guaranteed for Life/1 Million miles

Thanks for approximate quantities on these Kelley. :)

[bewilderedbeast]

Has anyone ever done an oil analysis?
BTW Amsoil makes a GL-3/4 gear oil which I use in my AX-15.

[RCman]

Royal Purple 20W50 and a K&N Filter. I was using Mobil 1 15W50, but I can get a deal on the Royal Purple and I like it better. The thick oil; well my engine ain't stock.

[90Pioneer]

Amsoil 5w40 and amsoil filter in my '96 4.0

[ILLXJ]

NAPA 10W-30 & NAPA GOLD Filters(Wix). Run it year round. JIM.

[EricT]

right now castrol synthetic but will be changing to amsoil in the engine
valvoline atf in the tc
amsoil gl4 in the tranny
amsoil in the diffs
super blue for brakes

[Root Moose]

So guys, is there anything to the old line that you shouldn't change from dino to synthetic after X number of miles?

I'm probably going to start doing my own changes and will switch to synthetic (Mobil) while I'm at it. The 2001 has ~100k miles on it, the 1998 has ~60k miles.

[egon]

On the 96, w/136k

Engine - M1 0w40, Wix/Napa 51515, every 5k
Transfer case - Amsoil ATF, every 20k
Transmission - Amsoil ATF, every 30k, external Wix/Napa 51515 every 10k
Differentials - Amsoil Severe Gear 75w90, every 30k
Coolant - Zerex/distilled water/Redline Water Wetter, every 2 years
Brake - Valvoline Synpower DOT 4, every year
Power Steering - GM synthetic cold weather power steering fluid, Wix inline filter, every 30k

--Matt

[Big Red]

Anyone using Lucas stabalizer with their Dino oil?

I read on the bottle that Lucas is 100% petroleum and bonds to moving parts and to Dino oil, synthetic etc. I'm a believer in seeing how my oil pressure is staying up nice and high even at idle and also the parts store display of the 4 gears where you can see how the Lucas added one has oil around the top plastic gear, whereas without it, the oil doesn't make it up this high (4 gears high in the display).

[87manche]

I tried it, it caused lifter noise in my renix with 250K. Went back to regular old 10w40 and tapping went away.
Remember that pressure is not everything, you also must have volume. My oil pressure is quite good with 10W40 anyway, so I don't know what I was thinking.
Without lucas my cold start pressure is 60 pounds, hot idle is 20-25, cruising speed is 40-45.
With lucas the cold start pressure would be at 75, which I'm sure was tripping the pressure relief, warm idle was 30, cruising was 50. I didn't think that an extra 10 pounds of pressure at cruising speed was worth the 5 minutes of lifter tapping and the insane colds start pressures. Seems to be good stuff if you've got a worn motor, but I wouldn't recommend it for those with tight engines making good pressure.

[Big Red]

I tried it, it caused lifter noise in my renix with 250K. Went back to regular old 10w40 and tapping went away.
Remember that pressure is not everything, you also must have volume. My oil pressure is quite good with 10W40 anyway, so I don't know what I was thinking.
Without lucas my cold start pressure is 60 pounds, hot idle is 20-25, cruising speed is 40-45.
With lucas the cold start pressure would be at 75, which I'm sure was tripping the pressure relief, warm idle was 30, cruising was 50. I didn't think that an extra 10 pounds of pressure at cruising speed was worth the 5 minutes of lifter tapping and the insane colds start pressures. Seems to be good stuff if you've got a worn motor, but I wouldn't recommend it for those with tight engines making good pressure.

Wow you sure do have high oil pressure, your guage might be giving you false readings. I like Lucas and plan to use it from now on. A little in the diffs and a quart in the engine oil using 5 quarts of Dino oil. It isn't too expensive at around $8-10 quart.

In my 91' AW4 4.0L wheeler I'm around 55 or so at the max at speed and idle around 20 or so (without Lucas). On my 98' AX15 4.0L I idle around 18-22 and am around 42 with lucas at speed.

[soccerdude]

On my 98 XJ, I run 10w-30 with Napa Gold Filters. I usually try to use dino Castrol, Shell, Chevron or Quaker State. It all depends on what is the cheapest at the time.

[UNCC_99XJ]

Mobil 1 Synthetic 10W-30 year round. Used with a Napa Gold filter I've not had one single problem (nor complaint) with it. Noticed the engine runs much smoother (not as much knocking) and I couldnt believe all the crap that came out of my engine that had 67K on it when I switched.

[dt00th]

i use 5w 40 semi synthetic on my 200k renix 4.0l cherry

[John90XJ]

FWIW, my '90 4.0 with 265k miles gets Delo 400 15W40 and a Purolator filter every 3000 miles or so. The oil pressure is good at ~50 psi while cruising and around 15 at idle.

The rest of the components get Valvoline products.

[Pioneer84]

Valvoline Maxlife 10w40 summer 10w30 winter Fran oil filter every 3K.

[John90XJ]

More info than you would ever care to know can be found here:

http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi

[87manche]

Wow you sure do have high oil pressure, your guage might be giving you false readings. I like Lucas and plan to use it from now on. A little in the diffs and a quart in the engine oil using 5 quarts of Dino oil. It isn't too expensive at around $8-10 quart.

In my 91' AW4 4.0L wheeler I'm around 55 or so at the max at speed and idle around 20 or so (without Lucas). On my 98' AX15 4.0L I idle around 18-22 and am around 42 with lucas at speed.
guage verified with a mechanical shortly after I bought it. It's dead nuts right.
crazy eh? I guess AMC just knew how to build a motor.

[MogifiedXJ]

So guys, is there anything to the old line that you shouldn't change from dino to synthetic after X number of miles?



I've heard this alot too and have wondered how much basis in truth it actually has.

[5-90]

I have no scientific evidence, but the idea does make some sense.

Synthetic will have a higher lubricity than common oil (hey, it's made to lubricate and cool, right?) and will probably also have proportionately higher detergents. While not a problem directly (it would keep things cleaner,) as seals wear, they might collect some crud on them that would help them seal - when they normally would not, because they're softer, worn, or slightly pitted.

So, it's much the same thing as when you flush your cooling system good and hard, and find leaks that you never had before. Those leaks (I've heard radiatormen call them "steamers") were sealed up with the scale and crud in your radiator - when you flushed it out, you removed the seal. Thus, the leak.

Mechanically, I don't see any reason why a switch to synthetic would harm anything - but I'd expect to have to do at least a rear main job, if your engine has been accumulating miles. Go ahead and switch - but be prepared to spend a day fixing leaks soon (and, if you don't, then you're just out some preparations, and probalby have some spare parts you'll eventually need anyhow...)

Where would I expect the synthetic to "cause" leaks? At seals between parts in relative motion - rear main, front main, and valve guides. Gaskets should not be a problem - but our engines being what they are, you should probably have a spare valve cover and oil sump gasket handy anyhow (even if you don't switch to synthetic, those factory seals are a pain to deal with...)

5-90

[Big Red]

More info than you would ever care to know can be found here:

http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi

Wow great site, thanks. :D

This answers so many questions. There are so many snake oil products. They don't like Lucas Oil Stabalizer over there. I got it for $6.99/qt, I might bring it back now.

[MogifiedXJ]

Wow great site, thanks. :D

This answers so many questions. There are so many snake oil products. They don't like Lucas Oil Stabalizer over there. I got it for $6.99/qt, I might bring it back now.
x2

That is a cool site. I've never seen it before but it looks like alot of really useful info.

[Big Red]

guage verified with a mechanical shortly after I bought it. It's dead nuts right.
crazy eh? I guess AMC just knew how to build a motor.

The 4.0L is sure tough as nails, dependable, and durable.

[Big Red]

x2

That is a cool site. I've never seen it before but it looks like alot of really useful info.

There has been threads here about adding a little Acetone to you gas, which I did but didn't see much improvement in MPG. This oil website swears by Merlin's Mystery Oil (I think that's the name) a 2 ounces/10 gallons. Also Redline SI-10 or something like that to clean and lube etc. Great info. A little reading and using the right lubrication products and maintenance now will go a long way in the future to spare you replacing major drivetrain parts in the future.

[90xj06]

Marvel mystery oil...ya thats what i had spell check changed it. dident notice

[Pioneer84]

Thats Marvel Mystery Oil used it back in the late 70's on a 1956 Buick put it in the oil to clean the gunk out smoke like a house on fire but it did a great Job that engine ran real smooth after that.

[MogifiedXJ]

Yeah, I use the marvel mystery oil in my old ford tractor. Whether or not it helps I do not know.

:dunno:

[bewilderedbeast]

More info than you would ever care to know can be found here:

http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi

Ha! You caught me. I've been a member there for several years.
Was wondering what people elsewhere did....
Anyone here might be interested and a bit surprised at some things over there. Searching the UOA section is a good start.

[HogWash]

I just moved from Florida and I always used a thicker oil,due to temp down there,what do You prefer ,Im living in Indiana now.

[53guy]

I'm supposed to change the oil? Hmm, I don't know what I use.......




























Lol, Valvoline max life, 10w-30.

[kevin s]

Amsoil 5W30 or 10W30, (Wix) NAPA Gold filters.

[Big Red]

I know this thread is about oil viscosity, but you guys really love the NAPA gold oil filters. What makes them so great? I kind if am stuck on Fram filters because I've used them in the past and now. How about a decent name brand filter and a oil magnet? That's what I use. From what I read, I'm thinking of running a thicker oil than Dino 10W30 instead of adding Lucas which basicly makes your oil thicker anyways and isn't cheap.

[MogifiedXJ]

I know this thread is about oil viscosity, but you guys really love the NAPA gold oil filters. What makes them so great? I kind if am stuck on Fram filters because I've used them in the past and now. How about a decent name brand filter and a oil magnet? That's what I use. From what I read, I'm thinking of running a thicker oil than Dino 10W30 instead of adding Lucas which basicly makes your oil thicker anyways and isn't cheap.
Wix and napa gold are the same thing. Buy one and then buy the same model fram. Cut the two of the open and look at difference in the wix and fram filter media and the amount of it. I don't think after seeing the results you would ever put a fram on anything again...

[jeepdude10000]

In my 89 XJ I use Napa 15/40 (year round)oil in my engine and K&N filter and Napa semi-syn gear oil in diffs.
In my 89 caddy I use Moblie 1 Syn 5/30, only because its had it since new, and i go 15000 miles between oil changes and the oil still looks close to new(nice and clear), only problem is that so far K&N doesn't make a oil filter for it.

[gmars]

Lil more critical than most. While I have had a long, love-hate relationship w/my 97 4.0 5-spd, when stuff breaks, it breaks bad and isn't cheap for some of us w/o extensive shops and toolage. I went the typical factory route on mine, using 10-w30 for three years, and began to notice a slight, progressive pressure drop, especially @ idle and when warm. got to be real bad, and eventually blew the motor. PITA. went w/a rebuild, and noticed that the pressure was never that good: idle around 25-30, hwy at about 40-45. BUT with 10w-40, pressure consistently went up by 10 # AT LEAST, across the bd. That's significant. I tried synth on the old motor, and press dropped. of course, it had 130k @ the time. it was a yr later that it blew. these are very touchy motors, in spite of the glowing, gushy testaments by people on this site. go thick. it helps.

[Fish'nCarz]

I use Castrol GTX, but just saw a new Castrol at the parts shop, "Cold Start."
Sez it has additives that bond with the metal parts and keeps them slickery. Reminds me of Andy Granitelli and the Sumo wrestler.

Anyone try Cold Start Castrol yet? It might be a good thing. My wife blew up our old VW Bus w/ the 2000 cc engine when she tried to start it when it was 15 below zero one winter morning. Mechanic at the time said that there was little or no lubricant available to the moving parts when she cranked it.

[kevin s]

Wix and napa gold are the same thing. Buy one and then buy the same model fram. Cut the two of the open and look at difference in the wix and fram filter media and the amount of it. I don't think after seeing the results you would ever put a fram on anything again...

Ditto. For me, it's a matter of consistancy. Wix=Napa Gold. Buy a Mopar filter and you will get "whatever is cheaper this buying cycle" with a namebrand paint job.

[wacho4]

Wix and napa gold are the same thing. Buy one and then buy the same model fram. Cut the two of the open and look at difference in the wix and fram filter media and the amount of it. I don't think after seeing the results you would ever put a fram on anything again...

HMMMM... I'll take your word for it. I can see the woman now..."you bought 2 filters you didn't even plan to use and did what... Thats it no more @$#^%#@ for another month." (accompanied with some painful whacks on head and maybe a kick in the balls).

[Root Moose]

HMMMM... I'll take your word for it. I can see the woman now..."you bought 2 filters you didn't even plan to use and did what... Thats it no more @$#^%#@ for another month." (accompanied with some painful whacks on head and maybe a kick in the balls).
I'd ask to talk to the manager if that's the way they treat you at the parts counter.

[Big Red]

Wix and napa gold are the same thing. Buy one and then buy the same model fram. Cut the two of the open and look at difference in the wix and fram filter media and the amount of it. I don't think after seeing the results you would ever put a fram on anything again...

I'll take your word for it. How much is the NAPA Gold filter? I pay like $4-5 for the Fram.

[RyanM]

I'll take your word for it. How much is the NAPA Gold filter? I pay like $4-5 for the Fram.
http://www.napaonline.com/masterpages/NOLMaster.aspx?PageId=470&LineCode=FIL&PartNumber=1085&Description=Oil+Filter+(Gold)
listed here as 6. My Napa store already has the two filters cut open for everyone to see. big difference

http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/images/filter-fram-xv.gif
versus
http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/images/filter-wix.gif&http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/images/filter-wix-xv.gif

[MogifiedXJ]

I'll take your word for it. How much is the NAPA Gold filter? I pay like $4-5 for the Fram.
They're somewhere in the $5 price range for the stock filter, but I use a Wix number 51773 or Napa Gold 1773 filter for a fullsize ford...it holds about an extra quart now.

[SCW]

Lil more critical than most. While I have had a long, love-hate relationship w/my 97 4.0 5-spd, when stuff breaks, it breaks bad and isn't cheap for some of us w/o extensive shops and toolage. I went the typical factory route on mine, using 10-w30 for three years, and began to notice a slight, progressive pressure drop, especially @ idle and when warm. got to be real bad, and eventually blew the motor. PITA. went w/a rebuild, and noticed that the pressure was never that good: idle around 25-30, hwy at about 40-45. BUT with 10w-40, pressure consistently went up by 10 # AT LEAST, across the bd. That's significant. I tried synth on the old motor, and press dropped. of course, it had 130k @ the time. it was a yr later that it blew. these are very touchy motors, in spite of the glowing, gushy testaments by people on this site. go thick. it helps.

I'd say you have other problems than the oil you are using. I use Valvoline 5-30 year round in my 4.0 with 122K miles. At idle the pressure is 25, at speed I get 45-50. I use the BIG Ford filter, #1515 or something like that, it holds 2qts of oil.

I don't think brand is as important as how you treat it and how often you change it. My dad doesn't touch a thing on his cars and really doesn't even notice when small things like lifters go out on him, he just turns up the radio. His Chevy 4.3L in an Astro just turned 250K miles on Jiffy Lube and Wal-Mart oil changes. They get one every 3K like clockwork and the engine is now starting to die on them. That's about 100,000 more miles than the average 4.3 would get and nobody knows what brand of oil is in it, or what will go in next.

[bewilderedbeast]

Other good filter choices are Purolator Premium Plus and Pure One. The Premium Plus outflows K&N, and filters better. Pure One filters way better than most anything.
Take your pick, whether you prefer more flow or more filtering. Maybe. Many think that since the oil pump is positive displacement, it's going to flow the same amount of oil no matter what filter you use. I don't know.
But why pay $10 for something that you can pay $6 for and get better results?
I currently use Napa Gold myself.