Seaforam works magic.

[Zice]

Soo one day I was reading some stuff on here and read about seafoam doing some crazy stuff and I wanted to try it... A week or so later I was at autozone trying to spend my gift card and saw seafoam and bought 2 cans of it... I go home and put 1/3 through the vaccum line and then the rest in my tank and Wow.

My jeep burnt ALOT of oil like it was bad probley 3 quarts every other gas fill up and smoked black smoke like a chimney...

Now 2 weeks and 3 tanks later my oil pressure is still at the same level... I havent checked it under the hood but before I would use my oil pressure as a capacity gauge and it has maintained the same pressure for the past 2 weeks which is a big plus... plus no more black smoke...

I cant believe it, and I really wasnt expecting results like this...

I guess what Im trying to say is try it out... if nothing else it will clean the carbon out of your engine and make a white smoke show for all your neighbors to gauck at :D

best 5-6 dollars spent on the heep.

[splitz]

I've used this stuff before on my 95 Toyota Pickup, not bad. Didn't really notice any signifigant results, but others swear by it. Which vaccum like did you use on your XJ?

[Pioneer84]

Great stuff I just used it on my 87XJ it took away its rough idle it has better pick up and my gas mileage has improved. Highly Recommend.

[goodburbon]

Using the oil pressure guage as an oil capacity gauge is a really bad idea.

[langer1]

Using the oil pressure guage as an oil capacity gauge is a really bad idea.

Oh boy BIG x2 times that, by the time pressure drops on the gage your doing damage.

[RichP]

It probably cleaned the oil ring on the pistons out and it resealed. I used to use the GM top engine cleaner in my S10 and Trooper, similar to sea foam I guess, same awsome smoke signature, neighbors ready to call the fire dept and the guy in the firetower zeroing in on your grid with his 200x scope to see whats going on :D

[POSXJGuy]

you best check under the hood first and then use the pressure gauge as you are driving.

i knew chrysler should have installed oil level warning lights in these things.

:shiver::shiver::shiver::shiver:

[Zice]

I realize its bad to do that but what I was saying is that my oil pressure has stayed the same throughout where as normally it would gradually decrese before...

[selarep]

so what vac line did you put it in?

[Pioneer84]

so what vac line did you put it in?

The Brake booster VAC line.

[Big Red]

I'm so worried about putting any liquids where my air intake is. I hydro locked a motor already and it really sucks. I do hear good stuff about this stuff. :)

Would you guys suggest going somewhere remote or out of your neighborhood to use this stuff? You don't want to get your neighbors mad, who cares about strangers you will probably not see again. :)
Is there a good chance you will stall your motor and not be able to restart it? How long does this stuff take to ease up on the smoke show so you can drive home without getting pulled over and ticketed by the Cops?

[90xj06]

well i dont think you can hydro-lock it with seafoam. but it works wonders.

[shortxjdoug]

Is there a good chance you will stall your motor and not be able to restart it? i ran some in my 96 ram 5.9 in the oil and i didn't let it settle off the valves before i restarted sucked a huge gob of seafoam into engine, it was a bitch to start the first time afterwards, a series of about three 30 second cranks with running the fuel pump inbetween

[Zice]

I'm so worried about putting any liquids where my air intake is. I hydro locked a motor already and it really sucks. I do hear good stuff about this stuff. :)

Would you guys suggest going somewhere remote or out of your neighborhood to use this stuff? You don't want to get your neighbors mad, who cares about strangers you will probably not see again. :)
Is there a good chance you will stall your motor and not be able to restart it? How long does this stuff take to ease up on the smoke show so you can drive home without getting pulled over and ticketed by the Cops?
I too swamped an engine just shy of hydro'n it, so I was hesitant to do this but it went alot better than expected...

and while your doing it it bogs down when you start putting too much in so just back off a little, the vacuum pulls in ALOT of air so it isnt hard to hit the hole... and I believe your supposed to put enough in to kill the engine when your done adding it... let engine cool to 0 degrees and then start it and let it run until normal operating pressure... you can get alot of smoke out if you rev it some... I had smoke all over the place when I did it... mine smoked for atleast a week and when getting on it and taking off from stop... its good smoke though thats all the bad stuff coming out of your engine :D

[Big Red]

Thanks for the 1st hand experienace Zice. Does this stuff stay in your oil? I want to use it, but I just put in $10/qt Lucas additive and 5 quarts of new oil so I'm hesitant to mess with it. I'll give it a try when I need another oil change, thanks for the info.

Troy

[Zice]

Yea dont put it in your oil more than like 20 miles before your oil change... it cleans your engine out and all the stuff it cleans sits in your engines oil so you want to add, run, change oil...

Happy to be able to help out a Veteran Member ;)

[langer1]

I'm so worried about putting any liquids where my air intake is. I hydro locked a motor already and it really sucks. I do hear good stuff about this stuff. :)

Would you guys suggest going somewhere remote or out of your neighborhood to use this stuff? You don't want to get your neighbors mad, who cares about strangers you will probably not see again. :)
Is there a good chance you will stall your motor and not be able to restart it? How long does this stuff take to ease up on the smoke show so you can drive home without getting pulled over and ticketed by the Cops?

Just do it after dark. Tip if you have a concrete drive don't do it on the driveway unless you put something under the exhaust pipe.
All that crap and gunk in your engine is going to come out the pipe.

[Big Red]

Thanks for all the info guys. We are all learning something or other here. I will definately use this stuff in the future, especially before I go for my next smog inspection. I've heard of this stuff in the past, but I've very very reluctant putting any liquid in my air intake, with this stuff it is safe so I'll do it. thanks again. Any pics of the smoke show and the pissed off neighbors??? :smoker:

[Zice]

personally I would put it through the brake vacuum line... its very easy with the suction of the vacuum and you dont have to brake out any tools, just pull it off, dump, put it back on and your done...

[ZachMan]

personally I would put it through the brake vacuum line... its very easy with the suction of the vacuum and you dont have to brake out any tools, just pull it off, dump, put it back on and your done...

Which line is this? Anyone got a picture?

So where all can you put this stuff?

[langer1]

Do don't know where your brakes are?

[Zice]

Quick little Photochop
http://img393.imageshack.us/img393/7333/seafoambj0.jpg

[bewilderedbeast]

You can find it at Napa for at $7.

[rocklandxjer]

so what, like in the gas tank too, is that what you meant by the rest in the tank?

[Zice]

Yea in the gas tank, I would rather not make a picture walk through for that one though... :moon:

[jeepnuts311]

Yea dont put it in your oil more than like 20 miles before your oil change... it cleans your engine out and all the stuff it cleans sits in your engines oil so you want to add, run, change oil...

Happy to be able to help out a Veteran Member ;)

i have heard that this stuff was hell on oil seals and gaskets, basically with the oil leaks that old jeeps see (mine included) it may make the leaks worse. either by being harsh on the old gaskets or removing junk that may actually be plugging leaks.

any truth to this?

-Tim

[Zice]

Well Im not a Sales Rep for Seafoam as I may be acting like but that would make alot of sense... Not so much harming the gaskets but more removing the junk that holds everything together... Its really a toss up though... if you would rather rid the engine of the sludge and gunk in there you take the risk of removing the plug that has formed... Since that stuff really shouldnt be there anyhow its better to take it out and fix it the right way... Bandaids dont work when you need stitches.

food for thought.

*and for the record I didnt add any seafoam to the crankcase so nothing Ive said about the oil is first hand.

[88XJSport]

I'm so worried about putting any liquids where my air intake is. I hydro locked a motor already and it really sucks.

You cannot hydrolock the engine with seafoam. Remember water doesnt compress...but seafoam, a thin oil, does :)

[SCW]

You cannot hydrolock the engine with seafoam. Remember water doesnt compress...but seafoam, a thin oil, does :)

??? What the hell are you talking about?

Because of the large amount of dissolved oxygen in water it can actually compress a little bit. Not enough for most people to measure, but it does. Oil cannot compress, which is why it is used in hydaulic rams, etc.

I really don't think this has anything to do with hydrolocking. You can even spray a little water down the TB and cause the temps in the combustion chamber to climb, burning off a lot of crap. Water injection is somewhat common especially in military vehicles, but it doesn't mean you drown the engine in water and lock it up.

[Lawn Cher']

Happy to be able to help out a Veteran Member ;)

:roflmao: :roflmao: :roflmao: :roflmao: :roflmao: :roflmao:

[KarlVP]

Seafoam;

Get two bottles. Slowly pour half down the intake. Put the other half in with your motor oil.

Take the other bottle, put it into a full tank of gas.

Change oil at regualr interval.

Done.

[Zice]

That works too, I was on a Budget ;)

[Big Red]

:roflmao: :roflmao: :roflmao: :roflmao: :roflmao: :roflmao:

"Happy to be able to help out a Veteran Member" -- Wow, I'm not used to such comments on this website Zice!!!

I'd like to think that my comments are value added, even if many times it has a comic value with my comments or the "nice" feedback I get from others here. Glad I could help.

We can learn a lot from this site from the newbie to the novice. We learn in life from our own experience and from what others have experienced. It's very beneficial when someone else can relay their good and bad experiences and we can piggy back on that so as not to go down the wrong path.

:cheers:

Troy

[splitz]

I really don't think this has anything to do with hydro-locking. You can even spray a little water down the TB and cause the temps in the combustion chamber to climb, burning off a lot of crap. Water injection is somewhat common especially in military vehicles, but it doesn't mean you drown the engine in water and lock it up.

Yes, but water or methanol injection is usually done on FI vehicles with extremely high intake temps, and you can definitely hydro-lock your engine with these methods if your flow rate is too high.

So back to the topic, yes you can lock your engine with sea foam if you put too much in too fast. NEVER, and I mean NEVER put your vaccum tube inside the can to suck the Sea Foam out. If you do, you WILL "Hydrolock" your engine.

[UNCC_99XJ]

i have heard that this stuff was hell on oil seals and gaskets, basically with the oil leaks that old jeeps see (mine included) it may make the leaks worse. either by being harsh on the old gaskets or removing junk that may actually be plugging leaks.

any truth to this?

-Tim

Switching to a Synthetic oil after a while will have the same result. I switched to synthetic on mine when it had 67K on it and with in 500 miles had an oil pan and rear main leak. Small leaks, but leaks none the less.

Back to the topic, I can just add an entire can to a tank of gas and it will clean up the crap in the fuel system correct? I'm a little leary about adding it to the engine oil or vac. line.

[RTicUL8]

What does this stuff do to the cat & muffler?

[ChuckD]

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=72366

No worries on the Vacuum line or CAT.

[langer1]

Switching to a Synthetic oil after a while will have the same result. I switched to synthetic on mine when it had 67K on it and with in 500 miles had an oil pan and rear main leak. Small leaks, but leaks none the less.

Back to the topic, I can just add an entire can to a tank of gas and it will clean up the crap in the fuel system correct? I'm a little leary about adding it to the engine oil or vac. line.

No adding it to the three different places all clean different parts of the engine.
It will not hydro lock an engine because it burns and evaporates instantly unlike water.

[fordtech]

I finally tried some the other day.... 2/3 a can in the tank (which was about 1/4 full) and 1/3 in the t-body and let it soak. Decent smoke show for about 3 blocks.... I hammered on it a few times to really clean it out/burn off the crap. It idles better in the morning and seems smoother on accel.

Im not a big believer in 'snake oil' type products but so far the seafoam seemed to have worked.

[Zice]

Back to the topic, I can just add an entire can to a tank of gas and it will clean up the crap in the fuel system correct? I'm a little leary about adding it to the engine oil or vac. line.
One can of seafoam (1pt) treats 8 to 25 gallons of gas...

[loke]

I just seafoamed mine last night and it was quite impressive seeing all the smoke :) .
I poured about 2/3 of the bottle in the gas tank and the remaining 1/3 directly in to the carb.
Seems like it has better acceleration today and idles a lot smoother (but then again; that might just be wishful thinking).

[ert01]

I mentioned this stuff to my dad last night and he said they used to use ATF in the same manner and got very similar results back in the day... anyone else tried this?

[MyJeepXJ]

but I just put in $10/qt Lucas additive and 5 quarts of new oil
Heavens no! Lucas = bad for the engine!

[RichP]

I mentioned this stuff to my dad last night and he said they used to use ATF in the same manner and got very similar results back in the day... anyone else tried this?
They used to use ATF or straight kerosene in the crankcase just before an oil change. Worked at a neighbors gas station when I was in HS and he bought alot of dodge and plymouth's with the slant 6's in them that had blown motors. He'd buy the motors out of wrecks and boneyards then put them in, dump whatever was handy, atf or kero, run em for about 20 minutes and then dump the oil and filter, new oil and filter then sell the car out front. While it was running Jess, his mechanic, would listen to it and when it started making a different sound he'd stall it with a hand over the carb.

[jeepnuts311]

Quoting a post that i read on MADXJ a while back. this thread was talking about freeing stuck lifters and cleaning out engines.

Good ole ATF. I remember years ago people pouring a qt right
down the carb on a running engine to clean up the valves. It
would pour out a ton of smoek, but afterwards the engines
run much better.
ATF is for the most part SAE 10 oil with alot of detergents
and dispersants in it. I used to do the 'mega' oil change
routine whenever I got something new:
#1 4 qts oil, 1 qt kerosene, & filter for 15 minutes.
Kerosene is the prime ingredient in most engine flushes, and
breaks up alot of the crap inside
#2 4 qts oil, 1 qt ATF & filter for another 15 minutes. The
ATF would mostly be used to get any remnants from #1 into
suspension
#3 Regular oil & filter change


-Tim

[Fish'nCarz]

??? What the hell are you talking about?

Because of the large amount of dissolved oxygen in water it can actually compress a little bit. Not enough for most people to measure, but it does. Oil cannot compress, which is why it is used in hydaulic rams, etc.

I really don't think this has anything to do with hydrolocking. You can even spray a little water down the TB and cause the temps in the combustion chamber to climb, burning off a lot of crap. Water injection is somewhat common especially in military vehicles, but it doesn't mean you drown the engine in water and lock it up.

I'm no expert (ask anyone) but I think you gets hydrolock because water don't burn like gas does.

[jeepnuts311]

I'm no expert (ask anyone) but I think you gets hydrolock because water don't burn like gas does.

i think its because water doesnt compress like air/fuel, so when the piston comes up, the top goes boom.

maybe a combo of the two.

-Tim

[Gerr]

its actually a combination of the non compressing factor (acts like a door stop)and the fact it wont burn away instantly (wont clear the path for the moving piston) like gas does that locks up the engine. If you ever do this to a engine you will definatly know what im talking about

[miketyson]

about the people who pour the seafoam in the throttle body or use a vac line, not sure if you ever noticed but if you pour water into your intake manifold (off the car) the water doesn't go into all 6 outlets when level, from what i saw favors the front side; this would be different when mounted but i think it is pretty unlikely that an equal amount is making it into all cylinders (manifold designed for air not liquid) and your likely dumping 2x as much into some cylinders and next to none in the opposite ones (especially using an offcenter vac line).... that just seems like a problem...

on another note whats better to use in the crankcase short term pre-oil change MMO or Seafoam??? have heard gooad about both for cleaning it out

[Wallyman]

I was at autozone trying to spend my gift card

You had to TRY to spend money at AZ?

[Ecomike]

on another note whats better to use in the crankcase short term pre-oil change MMO or Seafoam??? have heard gooad about both for cleaning it out
Seafoam could be risky if the engine has been severly abused and is loaded with parrafin, carbon, sludge....that might brake loose using seafoam. In a well maintained engine it is probably OK, but also probably not needed. I would play it safe and use MMO, but only if the drain period went too long or the engine needed some clean up due to prior abuse.

[Ecomike]

I'm no expert (ask anyone) but I think you gets hydrolock because water don't burn like gas does.

Couple of thoughts here on pouring any liquid into the intake of an engine. First It sounds realllllly risky, period. That said the normal fuel feed to an engine Carb or FI is a liquid, gasoline or diesel. The trick is to vaporize, boil, evaporate,gassify,or flash.... most of it before or while it gets compressed and to control the flow rate so that you don't have liquid in the cylinder at or near TDC, less one should hydrolock and blow the engine to the nearest graveyard. A good thing would not it be!

I was astounded to recently hear about using a water mist in the intake feed of a running engine (First I had heard of it) to clean up the combustion parts and areas, but after some reflection I can see how it could be very useful in small carefully controlled quantities.

First it has nothing to do with dissolved oxygen in the water. Not enough O2 there do anything significant. Second the following is from a Chemical reaction enginering perspective and some knowledge of changes that water undergoes when you heat and compress the p$ss out of it!

So here goes:

Water is a polar molecule, and oil and gas and probably most of the seafoam ingredient(s) are mostly non-polar (yes ethanol is polar and there may be some polar alcohols or ketones in the seafoam and there is now ethanol in the gas). Oh, also diesel fuel has nitrogen based (partly polar) proteins (amino acid functional groups) in it which is why it makes such and excellant cleaning solvent.

Some soils (polar soils) are far more soluble in water, as they are more polar, than they are in nonpolar oils and fuels.

Next, water tends to split into H+, OH-, H and OH free radicals in increasing amounts as the temperature and pressure increases. At combustion temeratures the water, if used in carefully limited quantities may be at a supercritical fluid state where it is no longer a liquid or a gas (it has a density above the super critical fluid state where the gas and liquid densities are the same). There is actually a patented hazardous waste incineration technology that feeds hazardous waste organics like PCB's into high temperature high pressure water reactors (at 450 F and 400 PSI as I recall) where the split free radical water components literal burn the chlorinated organics into stuff like HCl, and CO2.

Think of it this way, the water forms OH free radicals that react with unburned solid carbon deposits, producing an easier to burn, volatile C-OH alcohol.

Interesting to note here that it may (does) run rough as that carbon burns off, which also happens when gas gets contaminated with water. Also note worthy is that methanol and other alcohols as well as ketones like MEK (a polar ketone) are found in some fuel injector cleaners.

Lastly, I have heard on occasion wild stories about engines that added traces of water to the fuel feed, purportedly burning water to increase gas mileage, so now I am wondering what happens to the mileage and combustion expansion energy release when a small amount of water is added? They do make steam engines after all!???? Be intersting to do some thermodynamic calculations on the energy released as the water turns to vapor at combustion pressures and temperatures.

Anyway, back the topic, the question then is how to SAFELY control the water or seafoam, or ATF or snake oil blend feed rate and not blow up or damage the engine!

My thought would be to do it more slowly (and therefore more safely) by adding a soluble emulsion mix of blended DI water (20%), alcohols (30%), ketones (10%), aromatics like toluene (20%), and polyalcohols like a Glycol ether (20%) Ingredient in 409 and fantistic cleaners) and then add like a pint of that snake oil mix to about 4-5 gallons of gas in the gas tank, then run it at a fast idle (2 to 3000 rpm) for about an hour. Then top off the tank with a full load of good gas and drive it while it finshes cleaning the injectors, carb, and valves, etc. By soluble emulsion I mean a formula that would totally dissolve and disperse the water in the fuel blend.

I once ran a few gas tank fulls of pure MTBE (recently outlawed fuel additive, now replaced with 10% ethanol) Methyl Tertiary Butyl Ether in the gas tank (back in the early 80's, talk about high octane!) and it cleaned the hell of out my old dodge engine. Unfortunately it ate the rubber in the carbs float neddle assy and flooded the engine after about four tank fulls. My 6 quarts of oil turned into 8 quarts before I figured it out. :bawl:

[Blaine B.]

First time I did my seafoam treatment I went on a trail into the woods. The second time I just did it at night in my driveway.

When I put it in my crankcase I had maybe a few more oil drops.....but when I changed the oil and went back to Valvoline Max-Life it stopped the new leaks and it just has a few oil drips like before.

[F9K9]

I was a nonbeliever in Sea Foam when I was first told about it several years ago. I have used it in several vehicles and it always made a noticeable improvement.

I can see why a lot of folks are hesitant about letting a small stream of it being sucked into a vacuum line but the rate is slow. You pour it to fast and you'll bog the engine down. Why not just look at the other uses on the can and try those before you do on your XJ? I've used it on lawn mowers, weed eaters and leaf blowers and it has helped them too.

I also run their Trans Tune before an AT fluid flush with good results.

http://www.seafoamsales.com/images/updates_redcap.gif

I know everyone here swears by PB blaster but, I soak nuts and bolts daily for a week with their Deep Creep and so far not any have twisted loose or broke (I know my time is coming but, so far so good)

http://www.seafoamsales.com/images/Deep-Creep-small.jpg

Now, I have no clue if this stuff works worth a chit but, if it was cheap enough and I worried about bugs (which I don't) then I might try it.
http://www.seafoamsales.com/images/BBG-all2.jpg:roflmao:

No, I don't have stock, sell it, know anyone that is involved in the company or anything else that would put coins in my pocket.

I tried it on a '97 S-10 ZR2 when the engine was surging up and down and the dealer didn't fix it under warranty after 3 attempts. $5 or $6 (back then), 1/2 hr and it never surged again.

[1985xjlaredo]

NEVER, and I mean NEVER put your vaccum tube inside the can to suck the Sea Foam out. If you do, you WILL "Hydrolock" your engine.
I did this and nothing bad happend. That is how I stalled the enigne when I was done pouring it into the brake booster hose.
[qoute=Ecomike]
Couple of thoughts here on pouring any liquid into the intake of an engine. First It sounds realllllly risky, period. That said the normal fuel feed to an engine Carb or FI is a liquid, gasoline or diesel. The trick is to vaporize, boil, evaporate,gassify,or flash.... most of it before or while it gets compressed and to control the flow rate so that you don't have liquid in the cylinder at or near TDC, less one should hydrolock and blow the engine to the nearest graveyard. A good thing would not it be!

I was astounded to recently hear about using a water mist in the intake feed of a running engine (First I had heard of it) to clean up the combustion parts and areas, but after some reflection I can see how it could be very useful in small carefully controlled quantities.

First it has nothing to do with dissolved oxygen in the water. Not enough O2 there do anything significant. Second the following is from a Chemical reaction enginering perspective and some knowledge of changes that water undergoes when you heat and compress the p$ss out of it!

So here goes:

Water is a polar molecule, and oil and gas and probably most of the seafoam ingredient(s) are mostly non-polar (yes ethanol is polar and there may be some polar alcohols or ketones in the seafoam and there is now ethanol in the gas). Oh, also diesel fuel has nitrogen based (partly polar) proteins (amino acid functional groups) in it which is why it makes such and excellant cleaning solvent.

Some soils (polar soils) are far more soluble in water, as they are more polar, than they are in nonpolar oils and fuels.

Next, water tends to split into H+, OH-, H and OH free radicals in increasing amounts as the temperature and pressure increases. At combustion temeratures the water, if used in carefully limited quantities may be at a supercritical fluid state where it is no longer a liquid or a gas (it has a density above the super critical fluid state where the gas and liquid densities are the same). There is actually a patented hazardous waste incineration technology that feeds hazardous waste organics like PCB's into high temperature high pressure water reactors (at 450 F and 400 PSI as I recall) where the split free radical water components literal burn the chlorinated organics into stuff like HCl, and CO2.

Think of it this way, the water forms OH free radicals that react with unburned solid carbon deposits, producing an easier to burn, volatile C-OH alcohol.

Interesting to note here that it may (does) run rough as that carbon burns off, which also happens when gas gets contaminated with water. Also note worthy is that methanol and other alcohols as well as ketones like MEK (a polar ketone) are found in some fuel injector cleaners.

Lastly, I have heard on occasion wild stories about engines that added traces of water to the fuel feed, purportedly burning water to increase gas mileage, so now I am wondering what happens to the mileage and combustion expansion energy release when a small amount of water is added? They do make steam engines after all!???? Be intersting to do some thermodynamic calculations on the energy released as the water turns to vapor at combustion pressures and temperatures.

Anyway, back the topic, the question then is how to SAFELY control the water or seafoam, or ATF or snake oil blend feed rate and not blow up or damage the engine!

My thought would be to do it more slowly (and therefore more safely) by adding a soluble emulsion mix of blended DI water (20%), alcohols (30%), ketones (10%), aromatics like toluene (20%), and polyalcohols like a Glycol ether (20%) Ingredient in 409 and fantistic cleaners) and then add like a pint of that snake oil mix to about 4-5 gallons of gas in the gas tank, then run it at a fast idle (2 to 3000 rpm) for about an hour. Then top off the tank with a full load of good gas and drive it while it finshes cleaning the injectors, carb, and valves, etc. By soluble emulsion I mean a formula that would totally dissolve and disperse the water in the fuel blend.
[/quote]
X2 :looney:

[artsifrtsi]

You can even spray a little water down the TB and cause the temps in the combustion chamber to climb, burning off a lot of crap. Water injection is somewhat common especially in military vehicles, but it doesn't mean you drown the engine in water and lock it up.

That's the way my Grand-pa and my dad taught me to clean out the engine. Get a small bottle (20oz soda bottle works great) Just slowly add (at operating temp of the motor) through the carb/ TB at a rate just below making the motor gasp and use 1/2 to all the water.

Yeah, I have been thinking about using the sea-foam too, just haven't yet.

[Mudweiserjeep]

Just as an observation...reading through many posts here and other boards.....I read where people have had good luck and others warning that loosening or removing crude that may be sealing or holding things together may do more damage than good or maybe cause it to leak worst. Maybe I have missed them...but I cant remember reading anyones post saying for sure that seafoam has done more harm to their motor. My XJ has 260k....naturally I am cautious of using it on mine. However I do plan on giving it a try. It already leaks here and there.
Does anyone have definate stories of bad results?

Tim

[Brad M.]

"Happy to be able to help out a Veteran Member" -- Wow, I'm not used to such comments on this website Zice!!!

I'd like to think that my comments are value added, even if many times it has a comic value with my comments or the "nice" feedback I get from others here. Glad I could help.

We can learn a lot from this site from the newbie to the novice. We learn in life from our own experience and from what others have experienced. It's very beneficial when someone else can relay their good and bad experiences and we can piggy back on that so as not to go down the wrong path.

:cheers:

Troy

Wow, that statement is like a breath of fresh air! Too bad this same attitude is not being displayed in the members forum right now. Thanks for bringing out what this site is TRULY all about, and sorry for the hijack. :D

[lighthouse jim]

it's smart learn from your mistakes, but even smarter to learn from other's mistakes!

[Ecomike]

I used seafoam in my gas tank about 3 months ago. This time I am using B-12 Chemtool in my gas tank, which actually lists it's ingredients on the can, which are:

Toluene, methanol, Acetone, 2-butoxyethanol, mixed xylenes, isopropanol, and methyl-ethyl-ketone.

[1985xjlaredo]

How did the B-12 Work for you?

[Ecomike]

How did the B-12 Work for you?

I think it is just as good as seafoam, but neither one solved my problem. My problem turned out to be a bad TPS sensor.

[Daedalus454]

Wow! And here I thought you could fix ANYTHING by putting some expensive junk in your gas tank! j/k.

Re: Hydrolocking your engine. Hydrolock occurs when a cylinder has more non-compressable liquid in it than there is volume in the cylinder with the piston at TDC on a compression stroke. I don't know the compression ratio of the 4.0 off the top of my head, but let's just say it's 9:1. 4 liters is approx 245 cubic inches, a 6 cylinder engine would have approximately 40 cubic inches displacement per cylinder, so with at TDC your volume is going to be approx 4.5 cubic inches. Since one fluid ounce = 1.805 cubic inches, you could *theoretically* fit approx. 2.5 fluid ounces in *each* cylinder without damage, so 15 fluid ounces total for all 6 cylinders (assuming the SeaFoam was drawn into each cylinder equally, which it probably wouldn't), or almost the whole can in one revolution of the engine. My 4.0 idles at approx 1000RPM, so you'd have about 1/8th of a second (~2 revolutions) to pour in 15 oz, or 1/48th of a second (~1/6th of 2 revolutions) to pour in 2.5 fluid oz. So while it is theoretically possible to hydrolock your engine, you would have to pour FAST.

Disclaimer: My math is more than likely faulty. If you hydrolock your engine it's not my fault.

Since Seafoam is basically just a few potent solvents in an expensive can, personally I just clean my intake with the engine off by hosing it down with a spray can of Berryman's Chemtool, let it soak, then start it up and rev it 'till the smoke dies down. Then run a bottle of Chevron Techtron fuel treatment and I'm good to go.

[majic_tech]

you best check under the hood first and then use the pressure gauge as you are driving.

i knew chrysler should have installed oil level warning lights in these things.

:shiver::shiver::shiver::shiver:
well thats funny i have an 87 with a billion miles on it and it uses NOTHING beween oil changes.......guess fixin those leaks was worth it after all

[padreisla]

I buy the gallon containers of Seafoam at Advance Auto Parts. We have 2 ML320's, 1 C230K, 1 Scion XB, 1 Land Rover Discovery II and my XJ and it gets used on all of them. I have been using it for a long time with no issues. It does have a tendency to bring your neighbors out in the beginning to see where all the smoke is coming from. But hey just put it in, let it sit then take off down the road/trail. I bought a funnel from Advance Auto parts that has a cap on the top of it with a valve on the bottom where I can control the amount of flow to the vacuum line, it was like $5. The funnel also has measurements on the side so you can pour in how much you want and put the rest in your tank.

Joey :eyes:

[goodburbon]

Could a mod please rename this thread and spell seafoam correctly?

[Harlee&Tahoe]

Anybody have any issues reguarding O2 sensor fouling? Or cat damage?
Both are new. I was even thinking about removing intermediate portion of header (Pacesetter) and really give the neighbors a show, or at least wake them up.http://www.mustangevolution.com/forum/images/smilies/headbang.gifhttp://www.techoffroad.com/bbs/photos/the_dw_buggy/images/38/original.aspxhttp://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/images/smilies/thefinger.gif

[Harlee&Tahoe]

oops sorryhttp://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/images/smilies/thefinger.gif