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View Full Version : what axles are in my jeep?


YeaItsSlo
September 5th, 2006, 13:01
is there a way of telling what axles i have in my 96 classic? or do i need to pull numbers off the rear end?

XgeekstarX
September 5th, 2006, 13:03
96 classics came with a high pinion 60 up front and a GM 14BFF out back

YeaItsSlo
September 5th, 2006, 13:41
so its a dana 60 out front and a 8.25 in the back right? do you know what spline they are?

Gunner
September 5th, 2006, 13:53
He's jackin with ya. 60's and 14B came 96 Limiteds not the Classics. .

You have a dana 30 up front and most likely a 8.25 in the back.
27 spline front and not sure about the 8.25. 28 spline? or 29? I don't remember

rocklandxjer
September 5th, 2006, 14:00
they are both 'jackin with you" no cherokees came with 60s or 14 bolts lol

although you do have a dana 30 up front, 27 spline
the rear could be a dana 35 or chrysler 8.25 which could be either 27 or 29, due to the changeover the only way to tell the spline would be to pull the shafts.
tell me, does your rear end have a flat lip at the bottom, or is it a flush oval?

YeaItsSlo
September 5th, 2006, 14:09
they are both 'jackin with you" no cherokees came with 60s or 14 bolts lol

although you do have a dana 30 up front, 27 spline
the rear could be a dana 35 or chrysler 8.25 which could be either 27 or 29, due to the changeover the only way to tell the spline would be to pull the shafts.
tell me, does your rear end have a flat lip at the bottom, or is it a flush oval?


flat.. i found another thread on here that showed pictures of all the housings and i def. have the 8.25 in the back... (its flat on the bottom not rounded)

rocklandxjer
September 5th, 2006, 14:13
well then there ya go, but you still cant find out how many splines unless you pull the shafts. which means since the 8.25 is c clip, disassembling the diff... sorry for the bad news for that, on the other hand, the 8.25 is a good axle that can go as deep as 4.56 and the diff housing and axle shafts are strong enough for up to around 35s without worrying about constant breakage. and the d30 is a great axle too.

YeaItsSlo
September 5th, 2006, 14:35
well then there ya go, but you still cant find out how many splines unless you pull the shafts. which means since the 8.25 is c clip, disassembling the diff... sorry for the bad news for that, on the other hand, the 8.25 is a good axle that can go as deep as 4.56 and the diff housing and axle shafts are strong enough for up to around 35s without worrying about constant breakage. and the d30 is a great axle too.

fun. Thanks! i dont plan on going any bigger then 32's or 33's so atleast ill be set in that department. if i were to have one locker, would it be best in the front or rear?

rocklandxjer
September 5th, 2006, 14:39
on a daily driver id say front, plus, its more efficient to have better pulling power than pushing power. id say front, but if you get a selectable, id say either

Gunner
September 5th, 2006, 14:45
on a daily driver id say front, plus, its more efficient to have better pulling power than pushing power. id say front, but if you get a selectable, id say either

x2

YeaItsSlo
September 5th, 2006, 15:00
on a daily driver id say front, plus, its more efficient to have better pulling power than pushing power. id say front, but if you get a selectable, id say either

x2


front it is! and its a DD.. what are some of the cheaper ones that are still good? and how much of a differnce will it make? I do mostly trails and mudd.. not to much rock stuff..

Gunner
September 5th, 2006, 15:39
I had a Lock Right in the front for years never noticed it on the road. Thats the cheaper end. Had a full carrier detroit for 4 months and it exploded. If I had to choose again I would probably go with a lock right/ ez-locker/ Aussie sort of thing. They are simple and effective. And less is involved in the install. And for 33's you should be fine. Just my opinion.