TNT, Krawler and RE but why?

I have searched and searched and read probably 1000 threads but I still have a question.

I am building my first XJ and have seen that everyone who runs a TNT or a Krawler is consistently happy with the performance they offer for an out of the box kit. However, no one says anything about the RE LA kits. I have installed them on TJ's and thought they worked rather well.

All three kits use a "Y link" design therefore, even if pinion angle was an issue at 2 mph they would all perform the same. Second, they all have what appears to be a sturdy belly pan (very important to me.). Lastly, it appears the arms are all similar in length so leverage is similar on the front axle.

So this leaves $$, spring rate, quality of production, completeness of the kit, track bar etc as a comparison.

My question, why did you choose RE, TNT or RK?, and how well does it perform in the rocks?

Thanks for reading this long post and your information is appreciated.

The differences are mostly in "attachment",TJ's have a frame,XJ's dont.RE took a rather strange approach which isnt compatible with alot of other aftermarket bolt-on's!The arms are on the longer side compared to some.

Actually, RockKrawler doesn't use a "Y-link" (aka Radius Arm) if THIS is the kit you are referring to. They use a true 3 link. In theory, this design is superior to the Radius Arm configuration by eliminating the binding inherent with a radius arm setup.

I wont comment about how they compare in the real world, since I haven't run any of them.

My Opinion:
Between TNT and RE, i simply don't like the RE kit. I feel that the RE TJ LA kits are top notch... I think they dropped the ball on the cross member design. The TNT kit seems like a much better design.

At the end of the day, I would buy the RK kit simply due to superior design (at least in theory).

Just some things to think about....

-jm

TNT bellypan FTW

BDS has a true 4 link long arm kit

Full Traction does as well. They were my 2nd choice when I went longarm, but the Clayton's kit was very highly recommended by a couple of folks in the know, and I don't regret it one bit.

I considered the RE kit early on, but was informed of the interference issues with rock rails, so I scratched it from the list.

My mistake I didn't read that right about the RK. I do agree that in theory the 3 link design does work well based on the less attachments points the less likely the chance of binding throughout the travel range. However, that same benefit can be a downfall when it comes to strength.

I thought the RE was a little strange with all the wings on it (thought I was watching a femine pad commercial).

As far as the "true" four link design of BDS and Full Traction, I love it. But to me four links are inherently complicated (instant center, anti squat/anti lift, axle preload and roll center) and their benifit of correct caster curve, and consistent pinion angle throughout travel are not really worth it in a world where you are traveling at 2 mph. And I thought BDS was only availble for autos. IMHO when you are out in the middle of nowhere, simplicity is king.

Razdrver-FTW? what does that mean? With your TNT kit how is the strength of the belly pan?

Clayton? never thought about them thanks for the suggestion

There are many people on here who run Clayton's long arms, and I have heard nothing but praise.

i know a guy with clayton and he loves it. i've never heard a bad thing about anything to do with clayton. i plan on getting it. if you look at all the custom LA fab jobs, they tend to mimic clayton. it's not the cheapest, but you will wear out the rest of your jeep before you wear out your suspension.

Clayton's arms are very thick, heavy, and strong. You would be very hard-pressed to mangle or bend one. They also run parallel and below the front driveshaft, offering a bit of break-over protection. The replacement crossmember they mount to is similar, uber-stout. The arms are a Y-link, the uppers split off the lower about halfway up. The kit I ordered last year was when he was still using RK leafs and coils, which I've found to be excellent. The kit flexes like a mofo, rides very well on the street, and has been issue-free. It comes with a drop track bar, I'm not sure if Clayton makes that or if it's RK or someone else. Includes JKS quick-disconnects too. I paid just over $2K for the whole thing, shocks included. It's probably a little pricier now. If you're reasonably mechanically inclined and can weld, it's not a big deal to install it yourself. The price was a little bit of a sticker shock, but I was of the mind to do it once and do it right, and it was only a couple hundred more than most of the other LA kits in the 5.5-6.5" range.

I would recommend Clayton's kits to anyone with no hesitation.

fubar-
you bring up a good point about the clayton arms parallel to the d-line and in effect gaurding it. Does this quality exsist with the design of the TNT arms or is the d-line left to protect itself?

FTW = For The Win.
Belly pan is BEEF!

cool.
it looks like TNT and Clayton are the only "kits" without downfall and it is just a matter a preference between the two.

forget the question about the d-line.....had a brain fart, the d-line is never really in the line of fire..........

I have the RE kit and I like it alot. I am not a rock crawler though, I like the go fast stuff. That said, I do go and play with the guys and one time I was affected by the loss of ground clearance from the crossmember. That said, the crossmember is built for those who like overkill. haha

yeah I heard the x member on the RE is a little low and interferes with the rocks, that is why I have reconsidered that kit and I am now looking more into the TNT kit.

Thanks for the honest input.

On a side note, I just called RE and talked to thme about the 6207 kit. The lady I talked to said it is the same as the 6200 only with 7.5" coils and springs. She said they do not advertise the kit because the OWNER of the company didn't like it due to excess body roll and there is no nec. correction to the steering. Why they still offer it, "Because some people want a 7.5 kit. But if you buy the kit and don't like it, you can put the 5 springs in since it's the same kit."

How does that look that large company will put a product out there that they know does not work, instead of pulling it off the shelf and re-engineering it until it does. She also mentioned that the instructions were less than adequate due to the recent complaints that there was A LOT of people who had mounted the belly pan in the wrong place due to poor instructions.

I can't beleive she told me all of this, if i would not have been the one hearing it, there is no way I would believe this. It was like she was telling me not to buy their product....

darincraft said:

cool.
it looks like TNT and Clayton are the only "kits" without downfall and it is just a matter a preference between the two.

Click to expand...

that depends on what type of wheeling you do...
both of those kits are radius arm kits, which I would stay away from, I have the rk 3 link waiting to be installed and that thing is bure beef, the arms are solid stock, while these mount on the bottom of the frame rail meaning they don't quite have the clearance of the tnt kit, the benifits of the pinion angle staying the same through out the travel as well as no un expected unloading of the front end out weigh the clearance by a lot.
another benifit that this kit gives is no binding of the arms when flexed out, all radius arms will bind when flexed to a certain extent where as a 3 link will not.
my vote is the RK kit.

the RK arms are solid? I wouldn't think that was a good thing. I thought surface area was what created strength?

I run the RK 3 link, and have beat the shit out of it for about the last year & a half on big rocks. Honestly i couldn't be happier with the performance. For the money, you cant go wrong!
The solid stock arms slide great off rocks. The articulation is super smooth & the joints are good, just keep em greased.